http://www.expatinbulgaria.com Articles of The portal for expats and foreigners in Bulgaria http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Agriculture/67/47 General Information Agriculture was Bulgaria’s leading economic sector during the communist era. The restitution of property, however, led to the fragmentation of the land and a consequent crisis in the sector. Now, with the help of SAPARD funds and the active government policy, agriculture is gradually being revived, but it still has to execute a number of reforms in order to meet European Union criteria. The European Commission lists Bulgarian agriculture among the areas needing further reform. Main cause for concern was the evidence of misuse of SAPARD programme funds allocated to Bulgarian companies. The country has to take active anti-corruption measures in view of the increased amount of SAPARD funds it will receive in 2007. According to the signed agreements, Bulgaria will receive more than 1.5 billion leva in 2007. Apart from tightened control over SAPARD funds management, the agricultural sector also needs additional modernisation to comply with EU standards. The government is working on stricter veterinary control. To meet EU criteria, the sector should continue working on food safety, quality standards and humane treatment of farm animals. Bulgaria is a leading international producer of wine, tobacco, wheat, rose oil, vegetables and fruit. Just like any other agriculture sector, the country's wine industry faced many problems due to land privatisation after the fall of the communist regime. The industry is gradually reviving and again gaining world recognition. This country offers a large choice of varietals from five different wine regions, its most popular ones being cabernet sauvignon, merlot, sauvignon blanc and chardonnay. Bulgaria has some noteworthy indigenous varieties like mavroud, melnik, gamza and roubin. One of the industry’s main aims is to popularise these unique varieties and make a breakthrough on the European market by offering quality rather than quantity.The 80 large Bulgarian wineries sell their quality products to the UK, Ireland, Germany, Poland, Russia and even Japan. One of the reasons for the popularity of Bulgarian wine is not only its high quality, but also the Vinaria wine fair, which occurs annually in Plovdiv and is used for worldwide advertising of new products and technologies. The tobacco industry has developed mainly in the south-eastern regions of Bulgaria, where it still provides occupation for the larger part of the citizens, most of whom are of Turkish origin. Tobacco production in Bulgaria is artificially low because demand fell after Bulgaria lost its guaranteed markets with the end of the Soviet Union. Now, the industry is awaiting the conclusion of the privatisation of Bulgartabac. This company is the largest tobacco producer in the country with several cigarette factories, a filter and printing materials production facility, several joint ventures abroad and 12 leaf-processing plants. It is hoped that the privatisation will revive Bulgaria's tobacco industry, which is still not at a competitive level with its neighbours Turkey and Greece.Bulgaria closed Chapter Agriculture of its EU accession treaty on June 4 2007. European Commission (EC) suggested Bulgaria’s quota for tobacco production to exceed 45 000 tons of tobacco. To define the quota the EC took into consideration the figures for the amount of tobacco purchased over the past several years. http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Changes-to-residence-requirements-for-members-of-EU-citizens'-families-(in-case-the-family-members-are-not-EU-citizens)/20/1082 Visas and Relocation Bulgaria imposes some restrictions on the members of an EU citizen's family who are not EU citizens. Such family members enter and leave Bulgaria with their passports and visa, when visa is required. The Council of Ministers determines the conditions and procedures for visa issuing. No taxes for paper processing and visa issuing are required. No visa is required if the member of the family has a stay permit issued from an EU member state.Such people can stay in Bulgaria with their passports for up to three months.Members of an EU citizen's family who are not EU citizens can stay longer or permanently in Bulgaria, but they need a stay permit. The period for which such people are allowed to stay in Bulgaria depends on the period of stay of their relative who is an EU citizen. Temporary absence for up to six months each year, longer absence to serve military service, leave for up to 12 consecutive months resulting from cogent reasons and business trips are considered stay in Bulgaria.Long-term stay conditions Members of an EU citizen's family who are not EU citizens have to apply for stay permit in Directorate Migration of Interior Ministry in the first three months after entering Bulgaria. The applier will receive a temporary license. The applier has to attach to the long-terms stay application:- passport and copy of it- a document proving relation to the EU citizen- a bill for paid state tax*- stay permit of the relative EU citizen may also be requiredLong-term stay permit will be issued in a three-month period. If the application documents are not in order, the applier will have 14 days to present accurate documents. In case of death of the EU citizen, family members who are not EU citizens are allowed to stay in Bulgaria if they have lived in the country for one year before the death of their relative. People married or living together with an EU citizen can stay in Bulgaria after a divorce or separation with the EU citizen if they: - work or are self-employed in Bulgaria. - have health insurance and sufficient financial means to make a living without relying on Bulgaria's social aid system.and in case of any of the below mentioned reasons:- marriage or co-habitation lasted at least three years, one of which they lived in Bulgaria- are victims of violence at home before divorcing or separating with the EU citizen- have custody over children- have the right to visit their underage child.Permanent stay conditionsFamily members of a worker or self-employed person who has permanent stay permit, if they all live in Bulgaria, also have the right of permanent stay permit, no matter their citizenship. Members of an EU citizen's family who are not EU citizens receive a permanent stay permit if they have lived in Bulgaria continuously for five years with the EU citizen.Permanent stay permit application has to be presented to Directorate Migration of Interior Ministry two months before the long-term stay permit's expiry date. Permanent stay permit is re-issued every 10 years.EU citizens and they families have to carry their ID or passports and stay permit or card always.*The state tax amount has not been determined yet! http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Driving-regulations/25/41 Driving Regulations Regulations Road signs and driving regulations in Bulgaria follow international standards, though some signs might be missing in villages and on rural roadsForeign citizens may drive in Bulgaria using foreign driving licenses for up to one year after entering Bulgaria. After the end of that period, the driving license has to be replaced with Bulgarian one.If your home country has not ratified the 1968 Vienna convention on road traffic, you will have to get your driving license translated into Bulgarian to use it in the country. After a year, you will have to take a driving exam.According to the US embassy in Bulgaria, the US driver's licence in Bulgaria is accepted only if accompanied by an International Driving Permit.International Driving Permits (IDP) are recognised in nearly 150 countries and serve as an official translation of the US driver's licence. For more information, please click here.Currently driving test is conducted only in Bulgarian. Foreigners are not allowed to use an interpreter during the test. The situation, however, will change very soon, as Transport Ministry had already translated the tests in English and the tests are being printed.Transport Ministry plans to translate the driving license tests in German, French, Spanish and Italian, as well.Drivers should have in mind that any vehicle entering the country needs to have insurance. Drivers entering the country also need to pay an entrance fee, calculated in accordance to the type of vehicle. Driving tipsThe road system in the country is still underdeveloped when it comes to smaller roads. Better driving conditions are found on major roads and highways. In order to use the highways in the country, you need to purchase a vignette (see the table for vignette prices). Vignette prices for vehicles with foreign registration CATEGORY/DURATION C1* C2* C3* Daily 10 10   Weekly 56 33 5 Monthly 153 87 13 Annual 485 256 34 *Fines are in euro Vignette prices for vehicles with Bulgarian registration CATEGORY/DURATION  C1* C2* C3* Daily 10 10   Weekly 56.4 33.3 5 Monthly 153.8 87 12.8 Annual 487 256.4 34.4  *Fines are in euro C1: Construction machines and tractorsC2: Smaller construction machines, vehicles with more than 8+1 seats designed for passenger transportC3: Vehicles with up to 8+1 seats designed for passenger transport Vignette fees and road taxes could be paid at the border checkpoints in leva, euro or US dollars. Vignette stickers are available at some petrol stations, the offices of Executive Agency Automobile Administration and the regional road administration offices in the country. Using a vehicle with international licence plates could subject you to unexpected police inspections. Be aware of some common violations and the fines for these: Violation fines VIOLATION FINE Speed limit violations Up to 35 euro Driving without a seat belt 20 euro Driving intoxicated* From 50 to 150 euro and suspension of licence Mobile phone usage without hands free 20 euro * The permissible amount of alcohol level in the blood is 0.5/1000. Sanctions depend on the percentage exceeding the permitted level. One of the most common violations is exceeding the speed limit. Speed limits in Bulgaria vary as follows: Speed limits SPEED LIMIT APPLIES TO 50 km/h Populated areas 90 km/h Outside populated areas 130 km/h Highways According to the US embassy in Bulgaria, driving conditions are as follows: Safety of Public Transportation Fair Urban road conditions Fair Rural road conditions Poor to fair Availability of roadside assistance Poor http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Healthcare/23/42 Healthcare Depending on their countries of origin, foreigners in Bulgaria should be prepared to, on request, show evidence of medical insurance valid in Bulgaria. Travel/medical insurance should be for at least $5000 and should cover emergency medical expenses, repatriation, transport of mortal remains, funeral and hospitalisation. If the visitor has insurance of this type, a copy of the policy, with the legible policy number, company name, duration of validity and sum of coverage, or a letter from the insurance company including this data, should be submitted with the visa application. If the traveller does not have such insurance, a visa application can be made without it, but insurance must be obtained after the consulate has informed the applicant that the visa has been approved. The visa will be issued only after proof of insurance is submitted. Legal regulations may block the introduction of new rules on health insurance for foreigners on short-term stays in Bulgaria, a check by The Sofia Echo discovered in summer 2005.In terms of an ordinance approved by the Cabinet on April 28 2005 (Ordinance on the General Conditions, the Minimum Insurance Coverage, Minimum Insurance Premium and the Rules for Mandatory Medical Insurance for Foreigners on Short-term Stay or Transiting through Bulgaria), foreigners that have no medical insurance when seeking to enter Bulgaria will be obliged to sign at the border for insurance covering their stay in the country. If this mandatory medical insurance expires during the stay, a new policy will have to be taken out for the rest of the period remaining before the foreigner is due to leave the country. Foreigners transiting through the country or spending up to two weeks here and who have insurance would be eligible for compensation by a Bulgarian insurer for any expenditure they may have made on medical treatment, after a money transfer is made abroad (presumably in their country of origin or where the insurance has been bought). Legislation on health insurance for foreigners, however, has not settled the way such transfers should be made. The Union of Insured in Bulgaria (UIB), a non-governmental organisation headquartered in the Black Sea city of Bourgas, has advised foreigners to, before leaving their country for Bulgaria, acquaint themselves with alternatives to this form of mandatory insurance. Foreigners in transit have little to no chance of being able to provide a treatment centre and an insurer with all the documents required for claiming compensation. This is a limitation or even a denial of the right to be compensated, the UIB says.Its specialists believe that if a hospital refuses to issue, or just delays the issuing of, the necessary documents, the insurer could also halt or delay payment of compensation. In such a case, the compensation depends solely on the goodwill or the financial capability of the hospital, which is not a party to the health insurance contract.In the event that an insurer does not fulfil its obligations, the only way for foreigners to assert their rights would be to go to court. However, the method for seeking compensation in court is not regulated by the ordinance or any other legislation.The minimum coverage requirement – including primary, hospital and emergency medical services – for foreigners on a short-term stay, or those travelling through Bulgaria, is 12 000 leva as of January 1 2006. They are also required to have dental insurance that will cover services worth 500 leva. The ordinance also regulates the subject of insurance, the scope of the insured liability and circumstances in which the insurer would not owe compensation. Minimum insurance coverage and the premium are also envisaged in the document, as well as rules for paying compensation in the event of an accident or if treatment is needed. The minimum coverage does not include expenses for treatment of chronic diseases, haemodialysis and blood transfusions, planned neurological, cardiological and eye surgery, in-vitro treatment, hospital treatment of cancer patients and people with mental disorders, among others. The insurance premium payable under the minimum coverage policy depends on the duration of stay in Bulgaria. The insurance policy issued under this regulation may not be longer than 90 days. The insured can freely choose the practitioner and hospital on the territory of Bulgaria where they want to get treatment. They have only to inform the insurer within 24 hours of an accident or illness.The 2005 winter season showed that foreigners coming to Bulgaria’s mountain resorts had already begun seeking alternatives to the mandatory health insurance, preferring to buy “mountain health insurance”. http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Real-Estate-Overview/47/43 Overview EnvironmentEveryone is into Bulgarian real estate these days. The market reached incredible heights in 2005 and 2006, boosted by foreign interest and by the increased purchasing power of Bulgarians due to the increased availability of mortgage loans. Hundreds of agencies have sprung up, not just in the big cities, but in the resorts as well. Others just have a website and appeal directly to foreigners, mostly British and Irish, who are keen to invest in inexpensive Bulgarian property, frequently with the aim of using it themselves as a holiday home, but also fairly secure in the knowledge that the money invested will appreciate faster than if it were sitting in a bank at home. Despite the huge increase over the past couple of years, prices are still relatively low by EU standards. It is not just foreign interest that has bumped up real estate prices. As the Bulgarian economy becomes stronger, people have disposable income to buy property, and the mortgage boom over last couple of years has meant that even those without savings can buy a first or second home. Main boom areas are the Black Sea regions, especially the southern stretch, which has begun to resemble the Costa del Sol with its concrete developments, and the ski town of Bansko. Over-construction is said to become the biggest problem of these areas, making them less pleasant for tourists.Many other opportunities are available, there are other large ski resorts for instance, and quite a potential for the development of new ski resorts in those places where there are currently only one or two ski tracks. Bulgaria is lucky in that almost everywhere in the country is beautiful. It is difficult to say that one mountain area is better than another, though, of course, location and proximity to cities, airports, etc., is of importance if you are looking to rent the property out.AgenciesThe market is thus far not regulated. Buyers do not need a licence to operate as a real estate agency, so the ground is ripe for various rip-off merchants to practice their trade. Various foreign investors have shared their stories, including one Brit who was alerted by a conscientious notary to the fact that he was about to pay a ridiculously high price for some property and ended up fleeing his agent in fear. Though he lost his deposit, he felt his physical safety was more important. Complaints about poor service, even from some of the expat-owned agencies, which are perhaps unable to cope with the demand and just leave their clients hanging are also abundant.If you are buying from abroad, do some thorough research on the many sites available, take a look at the photos of houses, get a good idea of price ranges and check out where is a good place to buy. You can also chat with the many foreigners who have already been through this experience both on The Sofia Echo’s forum and on others.PeculiaritiesUntil recently foreign individuals could not own land in Bulgaria. In the beginning of March 2007 Bulgaria’s Parliament approved amendments to the land ownership legislation, which changed the ban for a restrictive regime of land ownership acquirement.Currently foreigners and foreign legal persons are allowed to acquire land in the country, but only under a international contract. Foreigners also have the right to acquire land ownership by inheritance.EU citizens who are not permanently resident in Bulgaria cannot acquire land in the country.A legal loophole currently allows foreigners to set up a Bulgarian company (see Doing Business in Bulgaria), which can then buy the land. This little bit of bureaucracy means that you need to use a local lawyer to set up the company, do the deal for you and you will have to retain his or her services on a permanent basis to maintain the company for you. You will also need to use an accountancy company to submit annual tax returns, since the land is considered an investment. The good news is that although you have to pay the initial capital (5000 leva or 75 per cent thereof) into a bank account, you can subsequently withdraw it once the registration process is over. If you are buying an apartment and there is no land included in the deal, then you can buy it outright as an individual.The legal fees are usually quoted as a total of the court fees and the lawyer’s handling fees. They can range from 400–1000 euro. ResidencyAnother thing that may be an issue is getting permission to stay in Bulgaria. Cases are decided individually at present. Citizens of the EU member states, the European Economic Community (EEC) countries, Switzerland, Canada, the US or Israel may stay in the country for up to 90 days. Afterwards those have to apply for long-term or permanent stay permit.Foreigners, who are not citizens of the countries listed, have to obtain visa permits to enter the country.In the meantime, here is some advice: if you are retiring to your property in Bulgaria, you will probably get residency as long as you can provide the documents to prove you are retired, that you receive an income from outside the country, etc; if you are a freelancer of any kind you will probably not get residence because, although the law allows for it, in practice permits are not issued to freelancers. In many cases, however, depending on the value of your investment (in property) you may be granted residency, so you should choose a lawyer with a proven track record.MortgagesInterest rates are still high here. If you are eligible for a mortgage in your own country then you would be advised to do it there. Rates here will eventually drop, and the IMF has been pressuring the Bulgarian National Bank to put the brakes on lending in Bulgaria, causing banks to be cautious about lowering rates. http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Buy-and-Rent/57/44 Buy, Sell and Rent Sofia The country’s capital, Sofia has around 1.2 million inhabitants but that number is constantly growing as the unemployed from the countryside move here looking for work.Most of that population lives in the ugly concrete tower blocks that make up Sofia’s outlying districts. New construction is mostly taking place to the south of the city centre, in the direction of Vitosha Mountain. Whole new housing districts have sprung up here but, though they may only be 5 or 6 storey, they still have their problems: control over building quality has been and continues to be patchy and as for architectural standards you can see anything and everything here.There are a lot of properties currently on the market as construction work is going on at a great pace. There are a lot of new houses in the suburbs as well as brand new apartment buildings. Even so, there are areas that hide more potential than others and areas where demand is fairly stable.It's a general rule of thumb foreigners prefer the following areas, from the centre to the South and East of the city: APARTMENTS High class: centre; Doctor's Garden, Lozenets; Iztok; Izgrev; Ivan Vazov; Hladilnika, Borovo; Buxton.Middle-class: Vitosha area, Krustova Vada, Studentski Grad, HOUSES in the villages on the outskirts of the city (beyond the ring road) which have developed immensely in the past ten years and now: Simeonovo (15km); Dragalevtsi (15km); Boyana (12km); Bistritsa (20km); Gorna Banya; Knyazhevo; Bankya (20km); Pancherevo (20km). There is a belt of NEW CONSTRCTION of houses and small apartment buildings inside the ring road which used to be just waste land but which has recently been turned into housing estates: Pavlovo; Manastirksi Livadi; Krustova Vada; American College/Malinova DolinaAreas to the industrialised North and North-East are mostly large housing complexes but beyond the ring road to the West and North prices are gradually rising in the small villages. Other Big Cities Property prices increase the most in the coastal cities and resorts, as well as in mountain resorts. Bulgaria’s EU accession is said to be among the reasons for price hike in 2006.Seaside345km of coastline, mostly sandy beaches. All regions located south of Bourgas have undergone major development over the past several years and now enjoy wide offering of apartment complexes on the sea shore. Developments vary from apartment blocks and hotels to modern luxury complexes with swimming pools, solariums, restaurants and a host of other facilities. Other developments include several golf courses to the north of Varna (Kavarna and Balchik), but there is still little construction going on north of Kavarna where the coast is mostly rocky, the landscape totally flat and the season several weeks shorter.MountainsBulgaria’s territory is strewn with mountains, so there’s a lot to choose from! Most Europeans already knew the resort of Bansko and Borovets, and are now becoming more acquainted with Pamporovo and the near by Chepelare, where large-scale construction has been launched in the past year. The obvious hit has been Bansko, an existing town which has recently expanded its ski facilities to the size of a European resort and is now fervently building to provide beds for the needed number of visitors. Prices here for apartments range from 500-1200 euro per sq m. Other resorts with development potential are Panichishte, Ribaritsa, Kom Peak in the North West of the country. It is particularly wise to invest around the ski resorts, as cheap Bulgarian ski destinations are in as much demand as quality resorts in French Alps.Rural AreasExpats seem to be particularly fond of the area around medieval capital Veliko Turnovo and the Stara Planina Mountains located two and a half hours way to Sofia or to the Black Sea and the lovely old village houses, which can be renovated. Properties along the Danube River and around the major town of Rousse are also becoming popular. Prices there still remain relatively low.Agricultural LandIt appears that Bulgaria's accession to the European Union triggered unusual interest both in and out of the country in buying such land here.Property agents say that the dynamism of farmland sales and leases in Bulgaria will continue growing. Demand was highest in the north-eastern region around Dobrich, which is in the heart of Bulgaria’s wheat-producing area. Unlike in other parts of the country, around Dobrich, demand exceeded supply.Purchase of land by foreigners has no material effect on the price of land, as a legal opportunity exists for joint ventures with foreign partners to buy land.Land plots in Bulgaria are becoming one of the most attractive investment goals for foreigners despite complaints that the small sizes of most properties are an obstacle to their successful sale. http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Step-by-step-guide/66/45 Step by Step Guide Buying an apartment for an office and/or dwelling purposes in Bulgaria should NOT be different than buying of an apartment elsewhere in Europe. However, things are not as easy and as straightforward as one might think. In practical terms, the deal should take place within the following parameters: 1. First of all, the buyer should sign a preliminary contract for the purchase of the estate and pay the owner a sum of 10 per cent of the total purchase price as a down payment. Usually such contracts are signed in order for the owners to outfit themselves with the documents necessary for the signing of the title deed before a notary public (a “notarioos”, in Bulgarian). (One should think that if a person wishes to sell, he would have to be ready with all papers. Well, not if you are buying in Bulgaria.) 2. After certain period of time (usually one month) the buyer pays the remaining 90 per cent of the purchase price and obtains a title deed for ownership over the estate. All potential buyers should be aware that all dealings with real estate in Bulgaria MUST be done before a NOTARY PUBLIC. In many cases, apartments also come with some proportional ownership (co-ownership) over the land on which the building is erected, which has its own complications. The expenses on the deal are: two per cent state tax (something similar to a stamp duty, to be calculated on the purchase price), notary fee (which is calculated in accordance with the price stated in the title deed, but usually for a one two-bedroom apartment it would be approximately 650 leva or 325 euro), fee for inscription in the land registry (0.1 per cent of the value), and legal fees. Example: if the property costs 50 000 euro, all these fees (except legal fees) would total nearly 1300 euro; for a deal where the property costs 100 000 euro, they are about 2400 euro; and for a deal where the property costs 200 000 euro they would be about 4500 euro. The usual practice used to be (when the deal was between two Bulgarians, at least) that these expenses would be covered 50/50 by the parties. Nowadays, it is a subject of an agreement between the vendor and the buyer. Things of which to be aware: It is QUITE LIKELY that the owner will NOT want to declare the real price of the property on the deed of transfer. This is done for the owner to AVOID paying CAPITAL GAINS TAX (which would be approximately 30 per cent of the real purchase price). You might end up in a situation where the owner proposes that either you pay the market value BUT get an official document (title deed) stating far lower price, or you do not have a deal. Usually, we recommend that this be EXPLICITLY agreed in writing before the signing of any document, but if your situation comes to such a dead-end, you should know that having a title deed with a lower price does not invalidate your deal. However, such a situation has its financial consequences, such as not having official documents for the money spent and higher taxes if you decide to sell the property afterwards at its real value. Please, consult with your broker/lawyer about every aspect of the deal to avoid any misrepresentation and misunderstanding at a later stage. General warning: When the search for good root to title is carried out in the land register (especially applicable for SOFIA’s Land Register), there are three to five BLANK DAYS, immediately BEFORE the search, for which your attorney would not be able to give you any data – i.e., there is a possibility that the owner of the estate might have put a lien on it, etc. This does not happen on an everyday basis, BUT buyers should be aware of it, as there may be unscrupulous owners who take advantage of this opportunity. Therefore, we recommend that the deal be guaranteed by an escrow account set up either by the notary or by a bank. http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Tourism/37/52 Doing Business Tourism is one of the most thriving and, yet most problematic, business sectors in Bulgaria. The greatest challenge the country faces is finding ways to make the utmost use of its unique tourism resources. Bulgaria provides first-class mountain and sea resorts, but because of poor marketing the country attracts fewer tourists than what might be expected. Bulgaria is putting forth many efforts in developing its tourism infrastructure. However, the budget of the State Agency for Tourism (SAT) is insufficient, and Bulgaria is seeking the co-operation of home and foreign investors. SAT, which is in charge of the tourism sector, and the newly-created tourism board, comprised of the leading private tourism organisations in the country, have already made the first steps toward co-operation. Plans exist for new agencies to be opened abroad in countries already interested in Bulgaria. Improved advertising is expected to increase revenue and to create a better image of the country abroad. Real estate market tendencies show that more and more foreigners are interested in purchasing construction areas on the Bulgarian seaside and in building new luxury hotels, leading to a record price hike. Although the demand is high, the Bulgarian seaside is already over-populated during the summer season and supply of plots suitable for constructing new hotels is low. Many tourists complain of the crowded shores and investors have transferred their interest from the popular resorts like Slunchev Bryag (Sunny Beach) and Zlatni Pyasutsi (Golden Sands) to the smaller and little-explored regions away from the large cities. The country has still unexplored and unexploited resources for cultural and historic tourism, religious, eco, spa and adventure tourism. Bulgaria is a land where traces of seven civilisations have been discovered. These include the first pre-historic civilisations in Europe, Thracian, Greek, Roman, Byzantine and Islam cultures. Poor management and marketing of these sites, however, has led to low, if any, interest abroad. Currently, cultural tourism provides only a few per cent of the total tourism revenue. One of the reasons for the low culture tourism revenue is poor accessibility to the locations. Undeveloped infrastructure is a problem the entire tourism industry faces. This is especially true as far as airports are concerned. Bulgaria attracts foreign tourists mainly with its sea and mountain resorts. Bansko and Borovets ski towns and the famous Slunchev Bryag and Zlatni Pyasutsi beach resorts are just a few of the names attracting large numbers of foreign tourists. A double pricing system, charging different prices for Bulgarians and foreigners, existed in the country for some time, but it was abolished in 2005. Another change the tourism sector saw over the past couple of years was the ban on construction work during the holiday season. Trends show that the number of tourists visiting Bulgaria increases four to 10 per cent annually. The majority of tourists come from Greece and Germany, exceeding half a million. Other nations interested in Bulgaria include Macedonia, Serbia, the UK and Russia. In 2006, tourism revenue reached 2.06 billion euro, registering a 5.45 per cent growth. The number of foreign tourists also increased by 6.64 per cent, exceeding 5.158 million people. http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Accounting/40/46 Accounting In 2003 Bulgaria introduced the International Financial Reporting Standards (IFRS) and all companies registered in the country are required to use them for their consolidated financial statements.Investors in Bulgaria should have in mind that since 2005, International Accounting Standards (IASs) are obligatory for all consolidated and individual company financial statements of listed companies, financial institutions and all large limited liability entities. In comparison, in the EU, only public companies use IAS. Though doubts exist about Bulgarian SMEs having the capacity to introduce IFRS, the country plans making IAS requirements obligatory for them. IAS introduction is regulated by the Accounting Act, which states that the reporting period is from January 1 to December 31. http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Banking/40/48 Accounting Credit expansion remains a serious problem of the Bulgarian banking sector. The loan increase has caused concerns to the International Monetary Fund (IMF) and the World Bank. In 2006 the IMF has agreed only to partial removal of the imposed credit limitations. Loan restrictions were imposed because the credit expansion threatened the stability of Bulgarian banks. IMF restrictions included forcing banks exposed to credit risk to hold additional reserves for covering liquidity losses. Banks soon found a way of avoiding the limitations, transferring credit deals to leasing companies, which are subject of fewer regulations. According to Bulgarian National Bank's (BNB) annual report on the banking sector condition, loans have amounted up to 4.4 million leva.Most Bulgarian households have already borrowed loans. Nearly one third of the households choose consumer loans from banks and every fifth household borrows money from friends or relatives. The majority of consumers prefer drawing smaller loans up to 10 000 leva used for the purchase of white goods and household electronics. One of the reasons for the credit expansion is the low average wage in the country. Low incomes also account for the smaller deposits in Bulgaria. http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Privatisation/37/49 Doing Business One of the biggest and most problematic deals of 2006 was the privatisation of Boyana Film Studios. The company was bought by the American Nu Image for 12.224 million leva. The privatisation contract also included additional 30 million leva of investment. Boyana Film Studios appealed the deal and required a new and procedure for attracting investments.Another major investor is the Czech power company CEZ, which bought the Varna thermal power plant. The deal totalled 206 million euro. CEZ has committed itself to invest a further 40 million euro by 2010. The Russian RAO EES won the original tender. Its offer came to 192 million euro. After the Russian company decided to leave the deal, the Privatisation Agency continued negotiations with CEZ, the company ranking second after RAO EES. After the privatisation deal was concluded, CEZ requested a 6.9 per cent increase in electricity prices in Bulgaria. Since 2001, the state has made several unsuccessful attempts to sell Bulgartabac Holding, its largest cigarette producer. In 2006 the company registered a 37.46 million leva unconsolidated net profit. According to the adopted privatisation strategy, the holding retains its profitable cigarette-making factories and started selling only the tobacco processing plants. The privatisation fate of the holding, however, remains unclear. The country’s flag carrier Bulgaria Air was also privatised in 2006. The privatisation process was hindered by disagreements between the transport and economic policy parliamentary commissions on the privatisation strategy. Still, 99.9 per cent of the company were sold to Bulgaria-based Balkan Hemus Group. The company paid 13 million leva for the air carrier and promised to invest another 82.1 million euro over the first five years after the purchase. Bulgaria will continue participating in the air company’s management through a golden share. http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Setting-up-a-company/38/50 Setting Up a Company The two most preferred forms of carrying out business in Bulgaria are with a joint-stock company (AD) or a limited-liability company (OOD). Both types of companies develop their capital by individual shareholder contributions. Unlike the OOD shares, AD shares are not attributed to individuals and owners are free to trade them without court permission. An AD is managed by a board of directors on behalf of the shareholders, but occasionally a meeting of the board of shareholders might be required for making decisions vital for the company's future. OOD is a more flexible form of ownership and is generally considered more suitable for small companies with few owners. Shares can be transferred only through a court decision and by entering the procedure in the Commercial Register. An OOD’s annual financial statements need not be audited by a CPA unless the company happens to meet certain requirements under the Bulgarian Accountancy Act, whereas all ADs have to have their annual financial statements audited by a CPA. Both companies restrict the shareholder's liability for company debt to the amount of his or her share in the company's capital. The procedure for setting up a company in Bulgaria can be divided into five distinct stages. 1. Investors wishing to create a firm should register their company name. The procedure might take some time, as it includes reserving and registering the company name with the National Statistics Institute and the tax register. 2. All investors planning to build or restructure the company site should have their construction projects approved by the municipality. 3. Obtaination of permission to use the premises. 4. Registration of any stores, restaurants, hotels, stalls or similar premises used for commercial purposes. The list of facilities subject to registration varies depending on the municipality. 5. Obtaination of additional licences, if required. Licences are obligatory for people trading in tobacco, alcohol, medicines and drugs. Entertainment spots and hotels also require trade permits. As the procedures are complicated, regardless of the type of company establishment, one should use a reputable law firm to handle the whole process, from choosing the company name to registering the company with the court and all the subsequent compulsory registrations with tax authorities, the National Insurance Institute, etc., all of which has to be done within strict deadlines, ignorance of which carries hefty fines if time limits are not heeded! There are many legal firms with excellent reputations; most now have employees who speak the major European languages, so finding a decent one should not be a problem. As previously mentioned, registering the company name is a long and complicated procedure. In short, with his or her lawyer, one should: 1. Verify that the company name is available and reserve it with the National Statistics Institute. 2. Produce Articles of Association. 3. Pay in to the bank at least 70 per cent of the obligatory company capital for an OOD (the total capital being 5000 leva); or 25 per cent for an AD (the total capital being 50 000 leva). 4. Submit the application to form the company, together with proof of payment of the capital to the district court. 5. Await, once all the necessary documents are ready, court permission for registration with the tax register. 6. Make the company's seal. The company becomes active when it is published in the State Gazette (2 or 3 weeks later). 7. Register with the National Statistical Institute to receive a BULSTAT identification, which number must be done within 14 days; 8. Register with the National Insurance Institute (NOI) within 7 days; 10. Register with the local tax authority within 14 days; 11. Assure that any bank accounts opened in the company name are also registered with the tax authority within 14 days. Remember that the steps should be done in the order specified! To obtain permission to build or re-structure the company's facilities, one must: 1. Present documents verifying ownership of the plot or building. 2. Research and plan the project – a copy of the location in the town map describing the exact position and surroundings of the plot or building is needed. 3. Submit three copies of your construction plan, designed and approved by the architects and engineers you hired and municipal authorities. 4. Obtain approval of the authorities responsible for environmental protection and sanitary control, and undergo an assessment of the fire safety of the object. 5. Obtain permission to use water and electricity for production purposes (if required). When registering your patent, make sure to use a registered patent lawyer in dealings with the Patent Office. To be on the safe side, even if the company name is the same as that of its activity, register the name under the relevant sections anyway with the Patent Office to prevent anyone from stealing the name. The Patent Office works painfully slowly (a trademark usually takes 18 months to be registered, and a design six months), as do the regional courts that would be called upon to resolve any dispute, so make sure the case is watertight. To register a patent, one should: 1. Check the patent registers to see whether the same or a similar patent has been already been acquired by another company. 2. Fill out an application form for patent registration and send it to the Patent Office together with a document verifying payment of the registration tax. It is strongly advised to use a consultant. The registration is valid for one year only and then only on Bulgarian territory. To register a patent valid in other countries, one should also apply to the National Patent Office of the country where it is wished to register the patent. The European Patent Office is where one must register for a patent valid in the entire EU, or the World Intellectual Property Organisation for a patent valid worldwide. http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Taxation/39/51 Taxation Bulgaria has reformatted significantly its taxation system to harmonise it with EU legislation.The tax year begins on January 1 and ends on December 31.Corporate taxIn 2006 Bulgaria’s Cabinet decided to decrease the corporate tax rate for 2007 to 10 per cent. Local and foreign companies operating in Bulgaria are liable to corporate tax. Organisations engaged in gambling and trade shipping, as well as state-owned companies which pay alternative taxes instead of corporate tax are an exception.The tax amount is calculated based on the declared profit for the previous year. Tax is paid in advance in monthly installments. The deadline for submission of tax declarations is March 31.In April, companies pay the difference between the tax amount paid over the previous year and the actual amount of tax owed. VATAny “autonomous economic activity,” such as services, trade and production, which is performed regularly in Bulgaria is liable to Value-Added Tax (VAT) when the turnover reaches 50 000 leva for a year. VAT rate in the country is 20 per cent. A reduction of the tax amount has been considered for some time but no specific decisions have been taken yet. VAT is declared and paid on a monthly basis, the last deadline being the 14th of each month. Fines for late submission and payment are severe. Tourism companies currently pay only seven per cent VAT. Personal income taxAll permanent residents of Bulgaria, having income in the country are liable to personal income tax. A permanent resident is considered anyone living over 183 days a year in the country. Every year, employees are obliged to submit an annual assets declaration by April 15 and to pay the tax owed within 30 days from the submission. The wage one receives under a labour contract is taxed on a monthly basis under the following scheme:Monthly income TaxUp to 200 leva 0%200.01 to 250 leva 20% of the sum exceeding 200 leva250.01 to 600 leva 10 leva and 22% of the sum exceeding 250 levaAbove 600.01 leva 87 leva and 24% of the sum exceeding 600 levaAt the end of the year the amount of the tax due is calculated under another scheme:Annual income Tax 0 to 2400 leva 0% 2401 – 3000 leva 20% of the sum exceeding 24003001 – 7200 leva 120 leva and 22% of the sum exceeding 30007201 and above 1044 and 24% of the sum exceeding 7200The difference between the tax already paid on monthly installments and the tax due is either paid in addition by the employee, or returned by the state.Income received by civil contractors and freelancers is taxed under the same schemes. The difference is that the tax amount to be paid in advance every month can be deducted with up to 70 per cent of the total income depending on the activity of the contractor.Double taxation Foreigners, not Bulgarian residents but receiving incomes from Bulgaria are also subject to taxation. If Bulgaria has agreed with the foreigner's home state to avoid double taxation, the foreigner may require refund of the difference between the tax paid and the one due under the relevant double taxation agreement. To do so, the foreigner has to prove residence in the country with which Bulgaria has signed double taxation avoidance agreement. The foreigner should not have establishment or fixed base within Bulgarian territory related to the respective income. Income which is not liable to taxation includes: 1. Income from the sale of certain types of residential apartments and cars 2. Money from the sale of securities 3. Deposit interests 4. State subsidies for children 5. Student grants 6. Lottery prizes Capital Gains The tax base in case of sale or exchange of immovable and some movable property is the difference between the selling price and the higher price between the factual and updated price paid for the acquisition of such property. The rule is applied to certain types of movable property such as aircraft, sea vessels and cars. For any other type of movable property the tax base is the difference between the selling price and the re-valued price for the acquisition of such property. Rental Income Received Twenty per cent of the income is tax deductible. If the rent is payable to a non-Bulgarian tax resident, a 15 per cent withholding tax is levied. Annual taxable baseThe annual taxable base is the sum of all taxable incomes received during the calendar year, deducted by incomes taxed with a final (patent) tax, pension and health insurance, unemployment fund contributions, premiums received under life insurance.Statutory deductions of 35 per cent of the gross income for services contracts and 10 per cent for management fees are applicable to non-employment contracts.Tax relief on donations is also possible if they do not exceed 10 per cent of the taxable income after other statutory deductions have been made. http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Designers-and-Bulgarian-fashion-brands/54/55 Fashion Agressia Fashion house Agressia was established in 1992. Its main line of business is manufacturing men's and women's pret-a-porter. In 2002, the company choose its strategic position in the sector of manufacturing of high-quality men's clothing. Men's suits bearing the Agressia trade mark are said to meet the European quality standards. Agressia Lux is a line of men's and women's business and special occasion suits and luxury women's wear. Over the past couple of years fashion house Agressia has been and continues to be the only one in Bulgaria using the textile of Dormioi, Cerutti and Mario Zegna. Boutiques: 60 Alabin Str, SofiaKempinski Hotel Zografski, SofiaInterhotel Bulgaria, Bourgas24-26 Georgi Benkovski Str, VarnaBabini Kouki (Granny's Knitting Needles) Babini Kouki is a unique line of handmade fashionable and stylish knit clothing. With its chief designer Galina Dacheva, Babini Kouki is one of the few fashion companies to successfully bridge the missing link between the age-old craft of hand knitting and high fashion. The knitters use only knitting needles and crochet hooks, and their most important tool is the traditional skill. For a single sweater to be made, over 50 000 stitches must be knitted. In the fall of 2005, Dacheva presented her Timeless Fashion collection at the New York Couture Fashion Week. Her designs are currently available at selected fine retailers in Bulgaria, the Netherlands, Sweden and Canada, as well as in Arizona, Indiana and New York in the United States. Address: 29 Marko Balabanov Str. 9000-Varna Online shopping: www.aristofashion.com/onlineshopping/onlineshopping.htm e-mail: info@aristofashion.com Tel: +359 8995/99592 Capasca Capasca was founded in the end of 2003 by a team of young professionals with an average age of 30. They gathered around the idea of creating a lifestyle trademark that will offer high-end creativity, quality and acceptable prices. Owners of Capasca are Martin Kozhouharov (former brand manager of BattiBaleno) and Magdalena Maleeva (former number four in the world tennis ranking list). The company has opened shops in Sofia, Varna, Veliko Turnovo, the Macedonian capital of Skopje and the Swedish capital of Stockholm.Boutiques: 60 Vitosha Blvd., SofiaMall of Sofia, fl.251, Knyaz Boris I, VarnaCentral Mall, Veliko TurnovoDenyl – provocation at all levels Denyl is a leading men's ready-to-wear clothes company in Bulgaria. It has some of the most original marketing campaigns for its new collections – it uses famous Bulgarian actors, singers, journalists and even referees for its advertisements. Enita – “To be always desired!” Enita creates all type of clothing for every season and every occasion, particularly suitable for the dynamic, independent young woman. The brand’s style is unique with its combinations of retro and modern trends, bold inter-twisting of lace and denim and unexpected variety of colours. Enita won the prestigious Bulgarian award Zlatna Igla (Golden Needle) for fashion design in 2001. Enita's clothes are available in Bulgaria Cyprus, Israel, Macedonia, Slovakia, Spain and Ukraine.Boutiques: 3, Kapitan Raicho Str, Plovdiv2, Hristo Tatarchev Str, Blagoevgrad117, Tsar Simeon Veliki Str, Stara Zagora30, Nezavisimost Str, Veliko TurnovoZhana Zhekova Bulgarian fashion designer Zhana Zhekova tries to achieve elegance and a perfect balance in clothing design. Zhekova’s models express a kind of nostalgia to the lost cult of womanhood, to a more romantic world that is not stressful and dynamic, but rather peaceful and beautiful. The designer is a double winner of the most prestigious Bulgarian Fashion Academy Award for fashion design – Zlatna Igla (Golden Needle). She was announced Couturier of the Year at the Haute Couture and Vanguard Fashion Festival in both 1990 and in 1995. Zhekova created the evening outfits for the Bulgarian participants in the Miss World contest for few years. In 2001 she was an official couturiere of the Miss Bulgaria contest. Boutiques: 18 Angel Kunchev Str, Sofia97 Knyaz Boris Str, Sofia Rila Style – Battibaleno by Rila Style Rila Style is a leading company in Bulgarian and European clothing industry. Established in 1970, Rila Style focuses on first-class, quality products.The clothing and accessories bearing the Battibaleno by Rila Style include bags, shoes, shawls, ponchos and gloves.Roshavata Garga Fashion house Roshavata Garga (Tousled Crow) was established in 1991 by Albena Aleksandrova, chief designer and owner. She designs women's clothing – haute couture, commissioned and pret-a-porter. Twice a year Roshavata Garga produces thematic collections. Aleksandrova said that her inspirations are both history and streets, different mosaic motives. She admires the work of the one of the most eccentric designers, John Galiano. Boutiques: 15 Aksakov Str, SofiaTotally Erected Totally Erected fashion studio is a place for everybody to enjoy good music, talk about fashion and style, and look up at the world's latest fashion magazines. The studio attracts artists and people who consider fashion a way of life. Totally Erected chief designer Veronika Vapirova is an image-maker of popular Bulgarian singers. The label lays accents on hand-made clothing and accessories, and vintage style. http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Golf-touring/60/56 Sports A game that has been existing for at least six centuries and has almost 100 million followers all over the world, still hasn't gained popularity in Bulgaria. There are three functioning golf courses – two in Ihtiman and Sliven – both of which are property of Air Sofia, and one course in the village of Ravno Pole near Sofia, owned by the Bulgarian Golf Association. Bulgaria is expected to get a number of new golf courses in the coming few years. The construction of the new Air Sofia course in Razgrad is almost finished. Additionally, the company plans to construct one more golf course near Sofia, allowing it to run a net of four playgrounds. Two golf courses near the coastal Kavarna, one in Primorsko and one in Kutina will be finalised in the near future. Bansko winter resort and Dolna Banya will have their own courses in 2008. http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Restaurant-touring/28/57 Restaurant Here are some interesting and unusual places you could visit during the holiday. In case you don't have the possibility for a real vacation and all you need is to escape from the city for a couple of hours, restaurant touring will do the trick. All you need is your car, a little gasoline and good company. Sofia "Chef's"(after the village of Pasarel – 0896 72 32 22) 17 kilometers away from Sofia, after the village of Pasarel, on the road to Samokov, there is a fine restaurant, which looks like it has been shifted there with a magic stick from Western Europe. In Chef's you could enjoy the food prepared by all gourmet standards and perfectly chosen wine selection. “Lyutite chushki” (“The chilly peppers”), Dragalevtzi district 26 “Krairechna” St., 02/967 22 20 The valley of Vitosha mountain has lots of restaurants and hotels, but most of them are at a medium level. Considering the smell of over-used oil and frozen chicken, “Lyutite chiushki” in Dragalevtzi is quite a descent restaurant. Not that there are no faults there, but the shkembe chorba and the BBQ in “Lyutite chushki” are one of the best you can taste in all of Sofia's surrounding. Plovdiv “Dzamurka” On the road to the Bachkovski Monastery, right before the entrance to the village of Bachkovo, on the right you'll see the turning to the restaurant “Dzamurka”. The strange name comes from a very old local specialty – dzamura, which is similar to a small sausage but is made of chopped meat and spices. The juicy dzamurkas accompanied with French fries are complemented by the beautiful river view. “Skadarlia” 29 “Dunav” Blvd. (032/ 95 50 93) The cute, casual bistro “Skadarlia” is one of the tastiest places for BBQ, if you are in Plovdiv. The tortillas are baked momentarily, while the personal has special attitude towards the food and drinks and will serve you with skill. “Hemingway” 10 “General Gurko” St. (032/ 26 73 50) “Hemingway” is the more wanted version of “Skadarlia”, and is found in the centre of Plovdiv. In “Hemingway” you will also find a rich collection of wines, fish specialties and salads. “Fado” 12 “Kuklensko shoosse” Blvd. (032/ 60 65 93) “Fado” is exactly “a restaurant at the end of the city”, but it is still a discovery. With pleasant interior in pastel tones, good and soft seating boxes, in “Fado” there are hardly 40 seats (occupied during the whole day) and this completes the feeling of stopping by to see old friends. The secret is in the excellent provisions, cold-pressed olive oil, fine cheese selection and spices; in other words the Mediterranean cuisine gives the final form of the menu. “Vesselo selo” (“The happy village”) 53 “Dunav” Blvd. (second circle of the Fair) 032/ 955 118 Not exactly a restaurant, not exactly a mehana and not exactly a fast-food spot – is probably the closest description of what the “Vesselo selo” is (or it is not). The large noisy premises with wooden tables accommodates the bar, show-cases with fruits and vegetables, ovens and grills, hot-plates with boiling kettles with the soups for the day. Obviously it's attractive and most of the times it is delicious. “Istanbul” “Trakia” highway The restaurant “Istanbul” is one of the tastiest places for a snack on the road. Don't allow the terracotta tiles and low-class tables chase you away from “Istanbul”, fore Turkish baklava, shish-kebap, and sesame bread baked on wood, are waiting for you. Bansko “Makedonia” (“Macedonia”) The beautiful house – mehana in Dobrinishte is away from the crowd which overtakes Bansko, and is like a dream-come-true for the tired skiers with fire-place, juicy BBQ and exquisite shekmbe chorba. And something else truly rare for the region – the music is not loud but rather serves as a background. “Molerite” (“The brick layers”) 41 “Glazne” St. (07443/84 94) Molerite appeared as a natural continuation of the most visited mehana in Bansko – the old “Molerova kushta”. The new mehana preserved its name with dignity. The new one is as successful as the old one; it also has from the famous small flat sesame loafs; they make their own pickles, they smoked their own meat as in Parma; they buy bull milk from local producers, as well as home-made rakia, but unfortunately the “Molerite” is just as crowded and noisy. In most of the cases that makes no influence on the service. “Tamplier” “Pirin” St. (07443/ 64 43) The restaurant “Tamplier” is more or less the only attempt for a place different from mehana which we would actually determine as a rustic style. There you can in fact order goose liver, pumpkin soup-”cappuccino”, beef steak and so on. “Glazne” 2, “Panayot Hitov” St., (07443/ 80 26) The restaurant of hotel “Glazne” also differs from the typical dimmed noisy mehanas in Bansko. Besides, there you will find good, fresh products, ideal service, very decent wine card. Stara Zagora Pizza “Venetzia” “Kolyo Ganchev” St. (opposite Bulbank) This is a classic pizza place, where typical thin Italian pizzas are baked on wood. There are also fresh salads, pasta and polenta, and besides the obligatory (for such places) beer on tap, you'll also find rich selection of Italian wines. Karlovo “Edno vreme” (“Once upon a time”) 9, “Rakovski” St. (0335/ 50 19) Whenever I pass by Karlovo, I stop by at “Edno vreme”. It is simply obligatory to enter, because the traditional Bulgarian house with a garden and excellent kitchen, with typical regional recipes is a true pleasure for every admirer of slow eating. Besides, they make their own rakia with Balkan herbs. Veliko Turnovo “Shtastlivetza” (“The lucky one”) 79 “Stefan Stambolov” St. Also classic (but very tasty) Bulgarian pizza place with a great number of salads and pizzas. The difference is that you can order a diet-flour pizza for example. Varna Bistro “Evropa” (“Europe”) 11 “Slivitza” Blvd. (052/ 60 39 50) At first sight bistro “Europa” doesn't differ much from most of the cafeterias and pastries situated along the main street of Varna. The similarities with a pastry shop are amplified with the best croissants and cakes (their own production) in the whole region. But the main culinary accent falls on the clams, delivered from the clam farm in the “Dalboka” bay (The deep bay),which attract most of the guests. La famiglia 1 “Bregalnitza” St. (052/ 61 02 90) Any local person will tell you that this most certainly is the best Italian restaurant in the city. That's right. Salad “Caprese” is salad “Caprese”, the pasta is home-made, and the whole place smells exactly as in Italy. Georgian restaurant 5, “8th November” St., (052/ 63 26 22) Not only in Varna, but in the whole country, this certainly is the most delicious (if not the only) Georgian restaurant with Georgian meals and Georgian wines. It's really worth it, especially if you like cinnamon, lots of walnuts and pomegranates. “Sezoni” (“Seasons”) Seaside park, Area Saltanat, (052/33 59 18) opposite Flower centre “Mimoza” Simple, intriguing, stylish interior with a kitchen in the same spirit. Fusion suggestions with classical taste and exquisite selection of Bulgarian wines. Sozopol “Ksantana” 33 “Morski skali” St. (05514/34 54) After the tourists invasion, Sozopol is no longer the same. This mostly affected the legendary pubs in town, which are now replaced by pseudo-luxurious bars. I suppose everyone keeps in the heart a memory of at least one favorite place in Sozopol, and after a lot of mistakes, mine is still “Ksantana”, for both it's cuisine and the beautiful view. The village of Varvara “Pri Dimo” It's hard to find such a pub on the South seaside, where it is possible to meet all your friends during the whole year, where you can taste fresh cheese, granny's meals, fish and home made tarama caviare. I give it an A especially for the atmosphere. http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Karlovo:-In-the-heart-of-Bulgaria/62/59 Destinations Karlovo was the home of Levski. Need I say more to establish the town’s place in Bulgaria’s heartland? If you are interested in the real Bulgaria, you must journey to the homestead of the nation’s most beloved founding father. Because of his dauntless courage, Levski was called the lion, a figure that became the national symbol of Bulgaria and the name of its currency. A memorial in Karlovo depicts Levski wielding a pistol with an enormous lion behind him. The whole area around the statue is immaculate. It’s a 19th century monument that captures that era’s willingness to mix ambition, grandeur and violence. People were taking photos. Levski’s preserved house in the centre of town retains the dyeing workshop – an enormous tub for boiling and dyeing clothes – his widowed mother used to support them both. You can see where they squatted on tiny chairs and ate. A church around the back of the house contains a ringlet of Levski’s hair, which legend says he cut and gave to his mother as a memento when he left the priesthood to join the Bulgarian uprising. Levski’s capture, trial and execution are depicted in a series of paintings in the museum attached to the house. They depict Levski as a martyr whose trajectory followed that of Jesus. Of interest to me was the gallows scene in Sofia, where the Turks, wearing fezzes and sporting beards, stand around Levski’s limp body. In the background is Sveta Sofia, the ancient brick church next to Nevski Cathedral. There is no cathedral, however. There’s no Moscovska Street. There are no buildings around the church at all. It’s surrounded by fields. The painting depicts Sofia before it ballooned after Bulgarian independence. So even the location of Levski’s death was prophetic. We stayed that night at the Shterev Hotel near Karlovo City Hall on 20th July Square. It cost a total of 50 leva a night for two rooms. Beware, however. First, Mr. Shterev must be a wealthy man, because he owns a number of similarly named hotels in the area. So when you go there, you have to specify you’re going to the Shterev in Karlovo (0335 9 33 80). Second, the hotel was dirty. Cockroaches. In the morning, I went to bend to tie my shoe and realised there was a hole in the wall under the coat closet. I could see into the next room. We had to rent hotel rooms in Karlovo because it’s not easy to get there, and we had an appointment in a nearby village in the morning. We didn’t know that busses leave for Karlovo from the bus lot between the Sofia central bus station and the train station. The people at the Sofia central bus station told us no busses went there at all. We took a train that left Sofia at 22:10 and arrived into Karlovo at 00:30. It cost six leva. Earlier trains took four hours. On our way back, we caught a bus in Karlovo to Plovdiv. Tickets cost three leva apiece. When we reached Plovdiv, we had to nudge our way into the next bus to Sofia. Those tickets cost 10 leva apiece. We were home in three hours. http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Gabrovo-region/62/60 Destinations Bozhentsi The architectural reserve of Bozhentsi is located 16km to the north-east from Gabrovo, through the village of Kmetovtsi. The reserve consists of nearly 100 18th century Bulgarian Revival houses beyond which lies only forest. Beware that a couvert charge to enter the village may be required to enter the reserve. The settlement is said to date back more than 600 years, when a member of the nobility, Bozhana, brought her family here from a Veliko Turnovo being laid waste by the Ottomans. The village became prosperous, and is believed to have expanded to more than 1000 households, shrinking again when stability and liberation saw people returning to Veliko Turnovo and Gabrovo. In the interval, it became somewhat of an artists’ and writers’ colony. (Few of them seemed to have achieved very much; I suspect if I lived in a place that tranquil, indolence might too seduce my work ethic.) Bozhentsi charms with its cobbled streets, delicious home-made yoghurt, Turkish coffee and byalo sladko (a traditional sweet that may be dipped in the coffee). A high proportion of the houses offer rooms. Many of the houses appeared to be in private hands, and not only having been sold to foreigners. Within, or just outside, the solid stone walls that characterise the narrow lanes of the village were luxury cars with “C” (for Sofia) licence plates. Dryanovski monasteryDryanovo monastery is noted in Bulgarian history for the bravery of the detachment of rebels that held out within its walls during the 1876 April uprising, and whose surroundings of sheer stone cliffs mesmerise the gaze. The monastery was constructed and demolished two times since 12th century, until it was built up again in its current location in the 17th century.The monastery itself and a number of nearby hotels offer accommodation the tourists.An eco-track beyond the monastery leads to the Bacho Kiro cave. The cave, named for a hero of the uprising, is lit by electric light and stretches for about 1200m. Guides and brochures are available in a number of European languages. Sokolski monasteryBuilt in the 19th century high in the hills 12km from Gabrovo the Sokolski Monaster boasts a breathtaking panorama. The chapel is pained with enchanting iconography dating back to 1862. The fountain in the monastery yard is a monument of architecture.The monastery, as most monasteries in Bulgaria, played an important role in Bulgaria’s liberation movement, by hosting rebels.The monastery offers accommodation. http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Conservation-and-profitability-through-ecotourism/62/61 Destinations Tourism is big business in Bulgaria, and the Black Sea coast is booming. But as seaside villages disappear under a plethora of hotels and tourists complain about the ubiquitous construction works, the industry could be in danger of becoming a victim of its own success. Conservation and eco-tourism Many of the most significant trends in tourism worldwide point to the high potential of eco-tourism development. Tourists around the globe are becoming more and more interested in activity and experiential/learning holidays. Although many tourists will never want more than a sunny beach and a cold cocktail, more and more are looking to diversify their tourist experience and reap some kind of physical or intellectual gain from their holiday. In addition, tourists are becoming increasingly aware of global environmental conditions. The more they learn, the more interested they become in nature and the more concerned they become with conservation. Tomorrow’s tourists will not only want to travel to natural places, they will want to know that what they see is being taken care of. Eco-tourism attractions are appealing precisely because they have been well preserved. Bulgaria’s many natural and cultural attractions, most relatively untouched, have considerable potential as the foundation of a strong and profitable eco-tourism industry. Eco-tourism is one of the best ways for Bulgaria to diversify its tourism industry and become more competitive worldwide. In order to provide for long-term economic, social, and environmental sustainability, however, Bulgaria’s attractions must be well preserved and responsibly managed. Central Balkan National Park Central Balkan National Park is just one example of Bulgaria’s eco-tourism potential. It is an area of immense natural beauty and biodiversity, and considerable steps have been taken to ensure its long-term sustainability. The Central Balkan National Park was established in 1991 to conserve the unique natural scenery and heritage of the area and protect the customs and livelihood of the local population. The Park contains rare and endangered wildlife species and communities, self-regulating ecosystems of biological diversity, as well as historical sites of global cultural and scientific significance. Although it covers only six per cent of Bulgaria’s land area, over half of the flora and fauna of the country have been identified within the Park. Over 130 plants and animals found in the park are listed in the World Red Book of Endangered Species, and 12 species are found nowhere else in the world. As such, the park is one of the largest and most valuable protected areas in Europe. The Park and eight of its nature reserves are on the UN List of Representative Protected Areas, and four of its nature reserves are included in the World Biosphere Reserves Network under the UNESCO Man and Biosphere Program. The park has recently become a member of the PAN Parks European Network. Despite widespread international recognition of the park’s significance, however, domestic awareness is still developing. Just some years ago half of the people living around the park had never heard of it. Following steps to raise its profile with visitors and local residents, a recent study revealed that now 90 per cent of locals are aware of its existence and most know where its borders lie. The number of locals expressing an interest in developing eco-tourism has doubled over the past several years. Visitor numbers are also on the increase. During the study, half of the park’s visitors were there for the first time, powerfully illustrating the potential for growth. Nearly 90 per cent of people spending their holidays in its environs had either visited the park or intended to do so. This growth in local ecological literacy is vital for the development of effective and truly sustainable preservation, management, and habitat restoration programmes. Nature reserves: the bigger the better Larger parks such as Central Balkan National Park are home to much greater biodiversity than smaller natural reserves, which cannot support full ecosystems. In order to best preserve biodiversity, a park must be big enough to encompass all aspects of it. Thus, larger parks not only maximise conservation efforts, but also indirectly increase the potential for eco-tourism and economic development. Wildlife is often the most popular tourist attraction in natural areas. Reserve areas that are too small to support full ecosystems have much lower biodiversity than larger areas, and thus fewer attractions for tourists. Thus, large forest conservation sites, of the order of 100km sq or more, are best for both conservation of rare species and for local economies. Creating forest conservation areas is often believed to lose money because of the loss of timber revenue, but protected areas can also generate jobs and income. Numerous examples around Europe and elsewhere have demonstrated the popularity of large protected forest areas such as national parks. These sites generate far more income through their visitors than would the value of their timber. Large sites can tolerate more visitors while still maintaining the integrity of their natural values; at the same time, larger protected areas are usually more important for biodiversity protection than smaller ones, because they can support larger populations of rare species. By Sasha Galitzki. Sasha Galitzki studyed Bulgaria’s eco-tourism industry and its effects on the economic development of local communities, regions, and the nation as part of a Fulbright Fellowship. She can be contacted at sgalitzki05@mckenna.edu. For more information on the Central Balkan National Park visit: www.centralbalkannationalpark.org http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Kovachevitsa-on-the-move/62/62 Destinations Formerly renowned as a happy hunting ground for location scouts for the Bulgarian film industry, the village of Kovachevitsa is transforming itself for tourists thanks to an initiative launched in 2002. A non-profit organisation, the Historical and Architectural Reserve Village Kovachevitsa Society, was founded in November that year. Its main aims, apart from preserving the village’s cultural and historical heritage and developing infrastructure in its region, includes providing employment to residents by developing cultural tourism. Kovachevitsa is in the southern part of Bulgaria, 25km north-east of Gotse Delchev, in the Dubrash section of the Rhodope Mountains, high on the left bank of the Kanina (Blood) River. With support from the European Union’s PHARE programme, the project includes the restoration of the village’s old school and the implementation of new tourist products in an historical and architectural reserve. The school, named after Yordzhe Dimitrov, a villager who founded it in the 19th century in memory of his three children who were burnt to death during an Ottoman attack, is now home to a tourist information centre, historical museum, photo gallery, and accommodation for visitors. The project also includes training of local hoteliers and restaurant staff, guides, and the marking of tourist trails. The village offers four tourist trails, the St George chapel, the Blue Pool, the Kozi Kamuk (Goat’s Stone) and Beslet Peak. Within the village itself, there are other attractions for those keen on immersing themselves in local history. Notable among these is the 1847 church of St Nikola. Under Ottoman rules, Christian churches were not allowed, literally, to stand out, and so it was dug into the ground. In 1900, with the Ottoman empire crumbling, the villagers added a four-storey bell tower. The village itself is noted for its architecture, and in 1977 was declared an historical and architectural reserve. This was among the reasons that it was used as the location for many films. Some of the old houses have been turned into hotels, which offer the attractions of the cosiness of the traditional Bulgarian home and the specialities of original Rhodope cuisine. http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Sofia-is-my-kind-of-place/74/1390 Sofia Sofia is big, enough and not too. Depending on whom you ask, it’s either a charming, if somewhat decrepit, Southeast European former communist capital, or a somewhat large city that is trying to find its place, or, it's just perfect. Most foreigners like it here, otherwise they would not stay. Large and exciting if you come from suburbia or a small town somewhere, or even if you are accustomed to megalopolises like New York or Tokyo, Sofia has a surprising amount of accessible culture and entertainment, not to mention business potential and constant development. Unlike in smaller towns in the country, Sofia lacks united expatriate community, though once you start to meet people, you'll find that Sofia is a small world. Maybe other places are similar, but here, it seems that nationalities hang out with their own type. Depending on why and how you're here, it might or might not be the most comfortable of lives, but it's ever-rewarding for its slower pace, easy-going attitude and mixture of big-city Balkan quirkiness with village imports. In many ways, Sofia is very much just a large small town. It's not uncommon to see horses hitched to wagons, or pensioners trying to supplement their meagre pensions by digging through rubbish bins. On the other hand, top-model luxury SUVs and sport cars speed along the oft-cobbled streets, flaunting a belligerent new-money and who-cares attitude. Some cultural notes Family still plays a very important role in society, with grandma and/or grandpa acting as main caregivers to their child(ren)'s offspring. Holidays are spent with loved ones, family or friends, and it is not uncommon to see families strolling through the city's many parks and gardens. Be aware of some traditions: women should never set their handbags on the ground (bad luck); when saying cheers (íàçäðàâå!/nazdrave), you must look the person you're toasting in the eye (or you'll just be considered very rude). Note that toasts happen often throughout the time you're drinking together. Also, it's considered bad luck to toast someone who is drinking a non-alcoholic beverage. If you clink your glass with one person, you must clink your glass with everyone. Society tends to be not superstitious, but rather, well, yes, superstitious. Be prepared for regular questions about your star/astrological sign, and looks of understanding when you tell it. You might see people making a spitting noise down their shirt three times if frightened, and the knocking on wood tradition also exists here. Other things: women need not fear looking a man in the eye when walking down the street; eye contact will not be taken as an invitation for a sexual advance. There is no distinction to age or sex when it comes to shaking hands – meaning, it's ok to shake hands with a woman, or a child, or a man. At a meal, it's not uncommon for all to share dishes from the centre of the table, or to take a taste of another's meal. As orders tend to arrive when they're ready, and not all at once or necessarily in any particular “proper” order, if you're with friends, it's not required to wait till everyone has his/her food. People tend to work long hours, interspersed by numerous coffee and cigarette breaks… Or lunch or time at a café with colleagues, friends or work-related acquaintances. There is often an overlap between work and play, friends from the office are also friends for outside the office. That youthful silhouette A great thing about Sofia is that most places of interest are walkable from the centre. But, if you need more than your feet on the pavement to keep fit and trim, check out some of the numerous sport clubs scattered around the city. Maleevi Tennis Club, a product of the famed tennis family Maleevi, offers tennis, squash, a fitness centre, a solarium and spa, yoga, belly dancing, tae bo, aerobics and kickboxing lessons, a full-service salon and a children’s room (tel: 962 22 88, www.maleevaclub.com). Athletic Fitness, locations around Sofia, finds preference for the extended hours (6 Atanas Delchev Str, tel: 970 01 31 and 22 Oborishte Str, tel: 943 44 19, both open Mon-Fri 8am-10pm, Sat-Sun 10am-10pm; 78 Yanko Sakuzov Str, tel: 944 51 25, open Mon-Fri 7.30am-10pm, Sat-Sun 9am-10pm, www.athletic-bg.com). Then there is Sport Palace at 75 Vassil Levski Bul, which offers a range of fitness options and really long hours (tel: 930 05 02, open Mon-Sun 7.15am-11.45pm; it might help to take a Bulgarian-speaker the first time around). Finally, but not at all conclusive, there is Sport Depot Gym in Business Park Sofia (Mladost 4, tel: 976 45 92). For fun with the kids, there is a large play area that has recently opened in Borissova Gradina (entrance from Evlogi Georgiev Bul and Tsarigradsko Chausse Bul). Also in this park, though further in, is Kokolandia, a sort of supervised and harness-in ropes course, for both children and adults (Nezabravka Str, behind Park-Hotel Moskva, tel: 831 30 95, open 9am-9pm). The numerous other parks in the various boroughs of Sofia (Yuzhen Park, Oborishte Park, Zapaden Park, Severen Park, Doctor's Garden, etc) also have playgrounds and nice grassy areas. Guaranteed social interaction is found with the Hash House Harriers, who meet for a cat-and-mouse run every second and fourth Sunday at 3pm (winter) or 4pm (summer). Go to www.sofiahash.org for current information and contacts. And then there is Murphy’s Misfits, the expatriate rugby team with a Bulgarian contingent. Touch practice happens most every Thursday at the National Sports Academy in Studentski Grad, with games on Saturdays. You do not have to be experienced to play! [www.murphysmisfits.org] Play that funky music So where do people get their music fix in Sofia? The National Opera and Ballet is always an option, with reasonable prices and a range of productions (1 Vrabcha Str, on the corner of Rakovski Str and Dondoukov Bul; tel: 987 13 66). The National Palace of Culture, more commonly known by its Bulgarian acronym of ÍÄÊ/NDK, hosts numerous shows, performances and trade fairs in its maze of halls (1 Bulgaria Sq, ticket centre tel: 916 63 69, or 916 68 96; 952 64 77 for English, www.ndk.bg). For classical music, both by domestic and visiting orchestras and choruses, Bulgaria Hall is the place to go (1 Aksakov Str, tel: 987 76 56). Most concerts, dance performances, singers and so on are advertised around the city with posters glued on any wall or space. If you can sound out the Cyrillic alphabet and understand the date, it’s pretty easy to inform yourself about upcoming events. Buying tickets ahead of time could be a good idea, but in Bulgaria, it’s not requisite; many people buy at the door – the culture only plans ahead when making dinner reservations (a must in most places on the weekend!). More popular music (think club, jazz) is another story. Discos abound, offering a range of music. Remixed retro (think 1970s to 1990s) is most common, though there are a few good house clubs (Yalta, Chervilo). Fans (114 Vassil Levski Bul, tel: 089/ 606 13 15) is where to go for underground metal, alternative, and randomness, including regular performances by Vasko “Êðúïêàòà/Krupkata” (“the Patch”), a folk-blues-rocker dude. Cielo (44 Alexander Stamboliiski Bul, open from 9pm), Black Box (5 Pirotska Str) and 4km Party Center (111 Tsarigradsko Chausse Bul, tel: 870 07 75) are also very happening. Unfortunately, good jazz clubs are lacking in Sofia. Swingin’ Hall (8 Dragan Tsankov Bul, open Sun-Mon 9pm-4am) might come close, with its variety of live bands, sometimes including Western folk, jazz, gypsy and more. Live Greek music can be heard at Morfes (70 Neofit Rilski Str, tel: 988 00 08, open from 10pm), while for Bulgarian pop-folk (aka, chalga), you have a choice of Íàé-Êëóá/Nai-Klub (22 Narodno Subranie Sq, tel: 981 27 47, open from 8pm; also in Mladost 3, in the Nova Denitsa complex, tel: 975 33 63, open 10pm-4am) and others, including the over-the-top Sin City Folk Help Club, with its themed halls and luxurious décor (Vusrazhdane Sq, 61 Hristo Botev Bul, tel: 810 88 88, open 24 hours). Do you know any movie stars? (No) Besides the newer, large multiplex cinemas showing mass-production current releases (Arena Zapad, Arena, Multiplex in the underpass in front of NDK, City Center Sofia, Mall of Sofia), five more small-scale, independent theatres still exist: Äîì íà êèíîòî/Dom na Kinoto (37 Ekzarh Yosif Str, tel: 980 39 11), Êèíî Ëàðãî/Kino Largo (108 Rakovska Str, tel: 980 70 77), Euro Cinema (17 Alexander Stamboliiski Bul, in the Euro-Bulgarian Cultural Centre, tel: 980 41 61), 087 ßëòà/Yalta (20 Tsar Osvoboditel Bul, in the underpass at Sofia University, tel: 981 65 30) and Îäåîí/Odeon (1 Patriarh Evtemii Bul, tel: 989 24 69). These show foreign and more art-type films. Odeon, in particular, has regular screenings of film classics since the beginning of cinema. Note that most children's films (both animation and not) are dubbed, as are all the IMAX films (Mall of Sofia). Check out The Sofia Echo or www.sofiaecho.com for current listings of cinema, theatre and concerts in English. Listen, I'm hungry / Thirsty for surprises Restaurants, cafés, lunch counters and bars abound. If you're unsure if it's such a location, look for a sign announcing Zagorka/Kamenitza/Tuborg/some coffee brand on the side of a building – it usually is. These words might also help: áúðçî õðàíå/burzo hrane (fast food), áèñòðî/bistro, çàêóñêà/zakouska (snacks), ñíåê áàð/snek bar (snack bar). For traditional Bulgarian, apart from the ever-affordable and delicious neighbourhood joints, Ìàíàñòèðñêà ìàãåðíèöà/Manastirska Magernitsa (Monastery Cookhouse, 67 Han Asparouh Str, tel: 980 38 83 ) and Ïîä ëèïèòå/Pod Lipite (Under the Lindens, 1 Elin Pelin Str, Lozenets borough, tel: 866 50 53) require a visit. Both are top quality, with gracious but not pretentious traditional atmospheres and cooking, and live folk music nightly. Manastirska Magernitsa stands out for its fairytale-like menu, each item explained with a humorous history and definition. At Pod Lipite, you can be sure of a dish's authenticity, as everything is made on the premises. (It is also the oldest restaurant in Sofia, existing as an artists’ hangout since the 1920s.) Pizza as a street food is more than present, and most of it is rather good. Don't be put off by the typical Bulgarian toppings (at your disposal) of ketchup, mustard, mayonnaise and/or sharena sol (a traditional mixed powder of salt, savoury, black and red peppers, cornmeal and ground pumpkin seeds). If you're looking to sit down with your pie, try Äæåïåòî/Geppetto (19 Gurko Str, tel: 981 27 07) for a relaxed atmosphere and inexpensive prices; Victoria (numerous locations across the city, www.pizza-victoria.com), where the pizzas are baked in maybe the only wood-fire pizza ovens in the capital and prices are a bit higher; or ×åðâåíàòà êúùà/Chervenata Kushta (6 Boris Hristov Str, Geo Milev district) for all-around good food, beer and atmosphere. Sushi restaurants are starting to appear; The Sushi Bar is nice and safe (18 Denkoglu Str, tel: 981 84 42). Much more recently opened are Wasabi (35a Alexander von Humboldt Str, Geo Milev district, tel: 973 34 34) and Kabuki (Akademik Metodi Popov Str, block 71 /on the corner with Chekhov Street/, Iztok district, tel: 971 70 60), but we haven't tried either. Vegetarians and non will like Dream House (50a Alabin Str, upstairs, tel: 980 81 63, www.dreamhouse-bg.com), where vegetables abound in all forms. The chill/posh/player scene does exist as well. To see and be seen, try Motto (18 Aksakov Str, tel: 987 27 23, www.motto-bg.com), Brasserie (behind the little park at Solounska and Angel Kunchev streets, tel: 980 03 98), Olive's (12 Graf Ignatiev Str, tel: 986 09 02) or Before & After (12 Hristo Belchev Str, tel: 981 60 88). And just because it's fantastic, in both décor (like being in an old-fashioned train) and food (Russian), try Ãàðà çà äâàìà/Gara za Dvama (Station for Two, 18 Benkovski Str, tel: 989 76 75). The traditional food called áàíèöà/banitsa (a filo-type dough layered with sirene, a brined white cheese, and baked) is best found at the banicharnitsa (banitsa and bread shop) at the corner of Rakovski and Pop Bogomil streets, near Slivnitsa Bul (open Mon-Fri 8am-7.30pm, Sat 8am-4pm). Trust me on this one. Now I lay me If you're visiting, or have visitors, I will recommend the Sheraton Sofia Hotel Balkan for top-of-top in everything, including prices (tel: 981 65 41). Otherwise, try some of the classy boutique hotels strewn around the city: Diter (65 Han Asparouh Str, tel: 989 89 98, www.diterhotel.com), Scotty's Boutique Hotel (11 Ekzarh Yosif Str, tel: 983 67 77), Vega (75 GM Dimitrov Str, tel: 806 60 00, www.hotelvegasofia.com); Lyulin (6 Serdika Str, tel: 980 01 20), Pop Bogomil (5 Pop Bogomil Str, tel: 983 70 65), or California (30 Bigla Str, tel: 962 93 00). Most of these, save Pop Bogomil, are more pricey. Good hostels include the artsy, small The Rooms Guesthouse (10 Pop Bogomil Str, tel: 983 35 08, theroomshostel@yahoo.com); Hostel Mostel (2a Ploshtad Makedonia, 088/ 922 32 96, www.hostelmostel.com); and Be My Guest Hostel (13 Ivan Vazov Str, tel: 989 50 92, www.bemyguest-hostel.com). No dull Jacks While Sofia has much to offer in its city limits, there is also a wealth of adventure directly outside. The natural wonder on Vitosha Mountain called Çëàòíèòå ìîñòîâå/Zlatnite Mostove (The Golden Bridges) is easily accessible from Rousski Pametnik using marshroutka (a form of public transport in a minivan) number 10. It takes you directly up to the nature reserve, where you can hike around or just picnic. Treks to other areas of Vitosha are also pretty easy, using bus number 66 from Hladilnika (where tramline number 9 ends). The Red House Centre for Culture and Debate presents a range of cultural gatherings, meetings, film showings, concerts and debates, many of which are in English, French or German, as well as the obvious Bulgarian. The house, the former residence of artist Andrei Nikolov, also acts as a bed-and-breakfast (15 Lyuben Karavelov Str, tel: 988 81 88, www.redhouse-sofia.org). Non-native Bulgarians tend to hang out at JJ Murphy’s pub (6 Kurnigradska Str, tel: 980 28 70, www.jjmurphys-sofia.com), particularly those in love with football (both American and British), rugby and other such sports. In addition, Fridays are designated as Expats Night. Every Thursday from 8pm, the Sofia Hashers meet at The Irish Harp (7 Sveta Sofia Str, tel: 989 87 37, www.irish-harp.biz), and on Mondays, they show American football. Flannagans at the Radisson Hotel also tends to be a popular hangout, particularly for its weekday happy hour. Note: To call any of the phone numbers from outside the Sofia area, dial 02 before the seven-digit number. Phone numbers starting in 08 are cell phones (called GSMs in Bulgaria); they do not require a city code. To call from outside Bulgaria, dial 00359 and drop the zero from the city code or GSM number, ie, 943 11 15 becomes 00359 2 943 11 15 when dialled from abroad. By Magdalena Rahn http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Rambling-through-random-villages/62/64 Destinations Sofia is not Bulgaria, it is often said, and there is little question that interest in spending some time in villages is growing both among foreign tourists, and people resident in the country, keen to sample something of the quiet, the atmosphere, and the cuisine that gives a pointer to Bulgarian village life of old.For those who like seaside there is Chiflika. About 22km from the Black Sea resort of Albena, on a hill above the picturesque valley of the Batova River, the place is centred on the ethnographic complex Chiflika Chukurovo.Savoured for its quiet, the village is also noted for its architectural style, and for its exhibition of everyday objects that reflect the everyday life of the villagers of the 19th century, while Chiflika also boasts mineral water swimming pools.Trigrad, a village in the western Rhodope Mountains, is reported to have experienced a boom in the recent number of visitors, with reports crediting this to the initiative of Kostadin Hadjiiski, a former guide in the region’s caves. Having started out by renting rooms in his own house, he went on to give over the whole house for rental, before expanding to a second one. Local residents are employed as guides for the caves. Horse riding is also available in the village. Trigrad is regarded as one of the star attractions in the south-western part of the Rhodopes, and the Trigrad Gorge is one of the most spectacular vistas in Bulgaria. Apart from the turbulent river in the gorge, which runs into the famous Devil’s Throat cave, other options in the area are to follow hiking trails to the village of Mugla and the Yagodinska cave, famous for its unique formations.Linked by road to Trigrad is the small town of Devin, perhaps most widely known for its mineral water, which has numerous fishing spots, and has a swimming complex with open-air mineral water swimming pool and volleyball playground.The village of Leshten is located northeast of Gotse Delchev, in the very western highlands of the Rhodope Mountains. The village is an architectural and ethnographic reserve with 30 traditional homes. All houses are built in old Bulgarian style, and a great number of them is available for rent. Most of the other houses are used as taverns by local residents. All houses are connected to the main street covered with oval stones, so called “kaldarum”. This charming village offers rich variety of choices for a memorable holiday and opportunities for hunting, fishing, riding and trekking.Manastir, which bills itself as the village at the highest altitude in the Balkan area, is at 1500m in the Rhodope Mountains.Nearby the village is the pilgrimage drawcard of Kratsova Gora, held in local belief as a place of great spiritual power and healing. A gravel road, along the course of which there are many fountains and springs, leads after a journey of about one and a half to two hours to Haydushki Polyani, noted for its dam, and in season, meadows of flowers. It is an excellent place for mountain biking and hiking. http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Best-foot-forward/62/65 Destinations Snowshoeing in the Rila Mountains sounded like just what the doctor ordered, after a bout of very nasty flu in January left me with the winter blues.The offer came from Odysseia In, the best known name in alternative tourism in Bulgaria, which was hosting one of its regular journalists’ trips, not only to acquaint them with what the Rila Mountains have to offer besides standard downhill skiing, but also to celebrate the company’s 15th anniversary.In those 15 years the company’s owner, Liubomir Popiordanov, has built up a large team of enthusiastic young people who are constantly on the move, taking groups of foreign tourists around pretty much the whole of Bulgaria with the exception of the Black Sea coast. These trips range from fairly leisurely tours of Bulgaria’s cultural heritage to the more extreme experiences of mountain biking through the Rhodopes for eight days, kayaking on the Danube or rock climbing in Rila.The company is the driving force behind the Bulgarian Association for Alternative Tourism, which has several strings to its bow, including training professional mountain guides, publishing the first annual guide to Bulgarian guest houses and establishing the “Bulgarian Home” charter, which guides individuals in their desire to set up their own traditional guest house. Of particular interest is Odysseia’s sister company Zig Zag Holidays, which offers similar products for the domestic market, including expats living in Bulgaria and individual tourists.We set off from Sofia after lunch on Friday and took the back route via Zheleznitsa to the town of Sapareva Banya, once known as “Germaneya” by the Romans, for whom this spa town was an important point on the main route connecting Rome, Greece and the Black Sea. That historical fact is difficult to believe now, given how run-down the town has become. Besides the Byzantine St. Nikola basilica, the only sight worth seeing is the geyser, which spews out the hottest water in continental Europe – an unbelievable 103C. At a meeting with the mayor, we were told that plans are afoot to revive Sapareva Banya, and by the end of this year the sanatorium should be up and running, offering spa treatments based around the amazing curative properties of the water. The town’s public baths already have had an overhaul, so if you fancy a communal wash, then check it out. Apparently there is a lot of investor interest, so the town appears poised to develop in the coming years. From the town you can walk up to the impressive Ovcharenski Vodopad (waterfall).It was a hair-raising ride up the icy road to Panichishte, a place of which I previously knew little. Our destination was the Gornata Zemya (“Upland”) hotel. Panichishte has no history of being a major resort, but had about 10 hotels or “rest homes” belonging to various branches of the socialist economy. Upland’s owners bought and renovated the hotel three years ago, as a refuge from a high-powered life in the capital city. The hotel is far from luxurious – small, comfortably furnished rooms with a small but new bathroom and one large common area downstairs, made cosy by the stone fireplace that radiates welcome heat. In fairness, of course, this is not a place to which one comes for the sake of luxurious decor. Opposite the hotel is the start of the path up to the Seven Rila Lakes, an astoundingly beautiful area of mountain-top shining expanses of water, about two and a half hours away. The large, modern Rila National Park Visitors Centre in Panichishte has a large variety of maps and leaflets depicting the different walks on offer in the mountains, including the “Friends of the Plants” trail, which shows you which rare plants you can see where and when. Strahil Gyuviiski, who runs the Centre, delights in telling guests about the fascinating legends about the dragons and fairies that live in the mountains.Close by is the Skakavitsa Reserve and the Skakavitsa Waterfall, which when frozen in the winter is used as an ascent by rock climbers! The hotel’s owner, Niki, is happy to accompany guests on bicycle rides and hiking trips, and by the summer expects to have his own horses for pony trekking in the mountain. Panichishte has a couple of small ski runs of its own, and by next winter there should be a new 2km chair lift all the way up to the Seven Lakes’ pistes, as well as a new piste running all the way back down to Panichishte.One of the hotel’s outstanding features is the cuisine – a lovely surprise for me, resigned as I am to putting up with that stodgy vegetarian staple Sirene po Shopski every time I leave Sofia. On the first evening while the rest of the group were served Katma (a savoury pancake) stuffed with pork and vegetables, our vegetarian option was the same Katma but with a tasty spinach stuffing. The meat eaters that tried it were green with envy. The following evening we got a veggie cutlet instead of the meat eaters’ roast pork. The salads were also more imaginative than the standard Shopska, though naturally that too is available on the menu. We were treated to an excellent young Merlot wine. The warm welcome of the owners and their sensitivity to what tourists are looking for is the hotel’s biggest selling point. At 15 leva a bed, it’s also good value.The next morning we awoke to overcast skies and a light snowfall, but I was too excited about the challenge of the day to be bothered by the weather, as we geared up with our ski suits, gaiters, rucksacks and the all important snowshoes. Setting out at 9.30, the walk up to the Seven Rila Lakes hut was, to say the least, challenging. I think it took us almost four hours to walk there, large parts of it steeply uphill through virgin snow, which we measured as two metres deep! The snowshoes keep you from sinking. The proper method is to dig the teeth in at the front to keep your grip. Unfortunately, the snow increased, and as we were at cloud level, we had no view at all. This didn’t matter that much in the forest, but when we came out into the clearing at the top where the ski pistes are, I couldn’t even see where the snow ended and the sky began.Once inside the hut, we could rest our feet, weary from the unusual sensation of walking around like a duck, and have a soup for lunch. I spent most of my break drying out my clothes. Once we were through, it was back to base via a shorter and more direct route, which was of course downhill. We had a lot of fun running through the untouched snow and sliding down some of the tracks on our bottoms. We got back to the hotel at about 5.30 pm, glad of the freely flowing hot shower. One of our group was so exhausted she went straight to bed and didn’t get up till the next day. The rest of us enjoyed a well-earned meal and some of that very mellow Merlot.I relished the experience of a refreshing weekend, including some fairly demanding physical exercise, getting to know a new part of Bulgaria and a new base where we can take friends for a weekend away in the mountains, safe in the knowledge we won’t be sat there twiddling our thumbs and wondering what to do with ourselves or our children. http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Some-autumn-alternatives--Part-1/62/69 Destinations A little late in the year for the seaside, somewhat too early for the ski resorts; if you are drinking white wine or mastika, it is because you do not want summer’s warming embrace to slip away; if you are drinking red wine or dark beer, you long to sense the icy overture to winter. I returned from a four-day weekend earlier this month with a missionary zeal about my discovery that there is an alternative to the oscillations of the year between sea and ski. I found it – shamefacedly I must admit after almost four years in the country – after we attended the wedding of friends who married at the Sokolski Monastery and held their reception in the hamlet of Kmetovtsi. Up in the mountains of central Bulgaria, where villages resound only with serenity, history is preserved in a tasteful way, and some innkeepers are trying for the competitive edge by offering satellite television and mini-bars. To get your bearings, the nearest large places in the region are Veliko Turnovo and Gabrovo. We used the weekend of the wedding to explore the region, and these are a few notes from the trip. Taking the road from Plovdiv towards Gabrovo, we drove amid a countryside unusually lush for the time of year, a by-product of the heavy rains this summer. I was determined to finally make the pilgrimage to the monument at Shipka Peak, and pay my respects to those who lost their lives in the fighting that opened the way for Bulgaria’s liberation from the Ottoman Empire. Before we reached the summit of Shipka, from far off glinted the golden onion domes of the Church of the Nativity. Consecrated on September 27 1902, in the style of 17th-century Russian churches, the church is in magnificent condition, thanks successively to help from the Russian Orthodox Church (under communism – an event commemorated with a marble plaque affixed to an outer wall, topped by the hammer-and-sickle and “CCCP”) and European funds. Memorably, among our fellow visitors at that hour was Zhan Videnov, whose socialist government presided over Bulgaria’s 1997 financial collapse. While I cannot guarantee that anyone who follows our route would experience a similar moment of political irony, I may recommend the area just below the church as a place to buy crafts and other memorabilia, including souvenir bottles of rose liqueur from Kazanluk. As we made our way up the road to Shipka Peak, I cast my appraising eye, that of a former soldier, at the dense forestation, and imagined the bloody and agonising exercise that it would be to lead a platoon in an infantry engagement on those unforgiving slopes. Later, from paintings and sketches in the museum, I saw that the slopes were portrayed as having been mostly bare at the time of the battles. A choice between terrain that offers an enemy plentiful cover or one that offers either side none is not a choice anyone would like to face. The day was unseasonably cold, and the memorial, reached by ascending a calf-crunchingly long flight of stone steps, was framed against a bleak and forbidding sky. There was an entrance fee to enter the museum within the monument, with different prices for Bulgarians and foreigners, and an additional charge for taking photographs inside – “foreigner prices” by the way, with an additional fee for photos and video, was standard practice at every place we visited in those four days. So much for the Cabinet directive of December 2004 outlawing the practice. Inside the Shipka monument, each floor within depicted scenes from the battle, and some of the figures who took part, with notes in a number of languages, including English. Among the battlefield memorabilia are rifles and bayonets used by the forces. Seeing the rifle number stamped on one – many veterans remember their rifle numbers for the rest of their lives – brought home that it was an individual who had grasped this weapon. I wondered what had become of him. Up a narrow staircase and through a narrow door, we reached the top deck, and stood briefly in the slicing wind, contemplating the countryside over which the battle was fought. Down the winding road of the pass, to Tryavna (about 22km east of Gabrovo), where at the lower altitude, the afternoon was warmer than on the peak. Wandering the architectural reserve, created by an initiative some decades back that thankfully preserved much of the Revival architecture, we came on the Museum of Woodcarving and Icon-Painting. As someone who was caned at school for gross incompetence in woodwork, I could but stand in wonder at the two wood-carved ceilings on display, representing stylised interpretations of the sun. They were created in the early 1800s by rival master woodcarvers Dimitar Oshanina and Ivan Bochukovetsa. I declared it a draw. Elsewhere in the architectural reserve, there is a wealth of houses and churches, and I noted that Swiss and European Union money was helping to keep it going. An experience similar to the delight in discovering Tryavna was a visit to the ethnographic museum village at Etar, nine km from Gabrovo. Work on the open-air museum began in 1963, and by using several actual structures and modelling the rest of the complex on records, the designers produced a seven-hectare 19th-century Bulgarian mountain town. Happily avoiding the kitsch of a theme park, the Etar complex offers the chance to see craftspeople at work, and buy what they have produced. A sad exception was the magnificent work of the baker, who had not taken into account that it was a long weekend, thus not anticipating demand, and opted for supplying the on-site restaurant rather than his queuing customers. I write with the disappointment of one who was second from the head of the queue when he made his decision. Still, there were many consolations, including the gentle atmosphere of the place, the coffee at a tavern in the cobbled street, and the sight of two young German tourists happily enthusiastic at themselves being photographed in the costumes of Bulgarian peasants of the 1800s. More information: Etar: http://www.government.bg/English/338.html Shipka: http://www.abvg.net/Shipka/ Tryavna: www.tryavna.bg http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Escaping-winter's-shackles/62/70 Destinations “Spring had arrived, at last!” Or so I mistakenly thought a number of times when I caught glimpses of the early March sun, or leapt puddles formed by snowmelt through Sofia’s streets. But winter was not done yet, its talons firmly drawing back the cover of cloud and snow that had cloaked Bulgaria. Sunshine seemed a distant memory, and increasingly fearful that spring was bypassing Sofia, I headed into the countryside in search of those signs of spring that would enable me to remove my martenitsa.Increasingly frayed, faded, and beginning to smell, the martenitsi that I had innocently donned at the beginning of March had become like handcuffs. Little realising at the time that wearing martenitsi represented a long-term commitment, I was only later aware that I needed to eat, drink, sleep, and bathe with these things chained to all available limbs. Upon hearing that I must wait for sight of a stork before I could earn parole, I had eagerly scanned Sofia’s skies for birds, frustration turning to dismay when I became aware that the only winged creatures brave enough to fly through Sofia’s polluted air were malformed pigeons. There was a danger that I may have unwittingly accepted a life sentence at the martenitsa prison, for my Bulgarian visa was soon due to expire and my onward journeys took me far beyond the migration path of storks. It was time to take matters into my own hands – if the storks wouldn’t come to me, I must hunt (for) them.As soon as a favourable weather forecast appeared on the radar, I jumped on a bus to Vidin, in hope that perhaps some feathered friends would be flying up the Danube.On reaching Vidin, spring peeked its head over the horizon and but the occasional cloud decorated the sky.Vidin enjoys one natural advantage sorely lacking in Sofia: a river. The Danube looks as most large rivers do, but something about its scope lends it an air of added importance for, if the water’s colour is anything to judge by, it has travelled a long way through a lot of lands. There was something pleasing to the eye about the Danube, an uninterrupted vista to Romanian forest that perhaps foretells of wonderful summer evenings lazily spent in the riverside park. Vidin’s long history is narrated along the riverside – Roman remnants bearing evidence to its ancient importance, and signs that tell of its relevance through to the end of Ottoman occupation. Vidin may have had its charms and a few eye-catching buildings, though the skeleton of a synagogue attested to its dearth of winter atmosphere. Unimpressed by illegal double charging at the fort and both hotels of interest, and with no obvious sign of stork activity, I decided to abandon Vidin in favour of Belogradchik.There were a lot of people on the streets of Belogradchik the next morning. The blue sky and perfect weather had seemingly drawn people out of doors as they busily went about their morning shopping. The clothes market was drawing the attention of many, and numerous local Roma seemed to be enjoying the fine conditions while keeping the streets clean of rubbish and snow. The town seemed happily involved in its own affairs without outside pressure, with many people actively engaged in enjoying pension collection day, standing around yarning as if waiting for the tourist who would sensibly come through in later, warmer months. The early arrival of a tourist drew blank stares, as if such a thought at this time of year was beyond comprehension. Accordingly, I was surprised by the response to my question “when does the information centre open?” I merely had the intention to enquire which is the best walking route through Belogradchik’s scali, as the local mapping was somewhat confusing. It was as if the town snapped its heels together and suddenly, in the epitome of crazy Bulgarian logic, a manhunt through the town ensued. Mobile phones were produced, and after a quick succession of calls I was whisked away in a van to meet with someone who spoke reasonable English. He explained that we were searching for an American from the Peace Corps that manned the information centre, eventually to be found at her home, from which we were spirited to the top of the hill to tour the Skali.The Belogradchik Skali are one of Bulgaria’s natural wonders, a playground where mother nature has sculpted a myriad of jutting rocks that assume a variety of human and animalistic forms. Already a well-known destination, much has already been written about the rocks which I shall not repeat – suffice to say that wandering through the rocks, enjoying the crisp fresh air and soothing birdsong provides a blissful alternative to Sofia’s kill-or-be-killed atmosphere. The view from the township shows the impressive extent of the outcrops, but wandering along the “marked” yellow path beyond the fortress provides an up-close-and-personal interaction with the rocks’ individuality, my neck regularly craning in four directions at once in an attempt to take it all in. It is quite easy to believe that the Skali have a personality of their own, changing in appearance as the sun changes its angle and intensity; thus a visit in early spring illuminates forms that would appear quite different come summer – shelves of snow highlight horizontal ledges, vertical drops host frozen waterfalls, and the landscape assumes the appearance of a frosted wedding cake. While the rocks’ deep orange colour lacks the contrasting green that spring foliage provides, the winter absence of leaves in the trees allows for less-obstructed viewing.The Belogradchik fortress is visually impressive, the union of man-made defence about a natural stronghold perfectly positioned, with the highest defensive wall enabling spectacular views of the township and surrounding countryside. Winter makes the fortress even more impregnable – as I battled with snow and ice in my conquest of the summit, I was glad that the sunny day and favourable weather did not whip the life out of me as the previous night’s icy wind might have. From the town, an imposing wall of rock seems to prevent access to the summit, causing me to wonder how the Bulgarian flag stood hoisted on the peak. However, the fortress’ main entrance is easily accessible and the stairs up to the peak have a railing that should prevent most people from falling to their death. The view is worth swallowing anti-dual-pricing ideals for, though at three leva, you shouldn’t be too incensed. A major part of a visit to Belogradchik is the journey itself, which gives a wide-ranging overview of the Bulgarian landscape, taking in fields and villages, mountains and gorges, providing a glimpse into the life of regular folk, and clearly demonstrating human interaction with the environment. Roma collecting and splitting firewood before transporting it on horse-drawn carts vie for road space with lorries and occasional modern tractors. The overpowering force of nature is illustrated by the Iskar River’s carved passage through to Mezdra, the towering cliffs dwarfing man’s efforts in quarrying. The mini-bus from Belogradchik wound a beautiful path back down towards the plain and Oroshets train station. At one stage the road that appeared before us seemed like a strand of spaghetti snaking its way down the side of a pasta bowl, as though road engineers had accounted for Bulgarian drink-driving habits and compensated for likely drunk swerving and overcorrection in order to provide a safe passage down the mountain.Bulgaria’s beauty is unmistakable, and Belogradchik is one of its highlights. Its almost a pity that the hulky rusted-metal remnants of a building decorates one view of the Belogradchik skali, this could be seen as ruining the view if not for the fact that its ugliness is merely another reminder of Bulgaria’s distasteful charms. Similarly, there’s an unsightly beauty to the ghosted out shells of industry, the innumerable factories that line the train tracks attesting to communism’s former glory. It seems inescapable that in search of beauty in Bulgaria, you will be enclosed by its opposite. Consequently it may be better to enjoy it rather than ignore it, poetically illustrated by the stork I was fortunate enough to observe in the vicinity of a prison, thus ending my martenitsa incarceration. If there’s beauty to be found in a landfill site, one wonders speculatively that perhaps, in the same way warehouses have become inner-city chic, so too may factories attain some appeal or achieve some sort of heritage listing. However, if you’re more interested in appreciating natural beauty and have access to your own transport, an extensive cave system, including the famed Magura cave, lies nearby and may be more to your liking.How to get there:There is only one direct bus each day Sofia-Belogradchik. The alternative is to catch a bus to Vidin (numerable) and then another onwards (5 daily, last departure 5.30pm). Alternatively, the train ride through to Oroshets takes marginally longer; from there connect to a minibus bound for Belogradchik.Where to Stay:Hotel Ray is the cheapest option, with rooms from 20 leva. Hotel St Valentine may represent higher quality and better value, starting from 30 leva. Both are within 100m from the bus station. The Madona is a family run pension recommended by trusted guidebooks. http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Plovdiv's-Pleasures/62/71 Destinations Our car has broken down. I’d never thought I’d make a problem out it, but travelling to Plovdiv by Public Transport didn’t seem very appealing to me. Visions of smelly villagers, with bags and boxes containing food that would dominate any other kind of odour, were pestering me. But I decided not to be a baby and just get on the bus. In fact, I must say that it wasn’t bad at all. The bus was clean and air-conditioned and the people looked similar. Funnily enough, the only disturbance that I experienced was caused by two very loud Italians who obviously didn’t realise that they were the only ones, except for the bus’ engine, producing sound during the two-hour trip. We arrived. Friends greeted us at the station. They took us to our hotel (Hotel Bulgaria), which was situated in the heart of Plovdiv’s centre. I was impressed, it was only a three star hotel, but I can say in all honesty that it looked similar to, if not better than, many of the four and five star hotels that I have stayed in in Bulgaria. When we gave our names, the receptionist gave us our key without looking at any papers or checking any documents. She just asked for our ID and that was that. A helpful smiling bellboy brought our luggage up. The room was clean and tasteful. Emerald green curtains decorated the windows which looked out onto the main square. I inspected the bathroom and bed sheets and with contentment left the room to eat something, knowing that when we got back, we wouldn’t have any unpleasant surprises. Our friend and chef, who was with us, recommended eating in a restaurant called Hemmingway. Off we went. We had a nice late lunch; I had a green salad with bacon and cheese and some potatoes with cream. And here and there I stole some Serbian beans, meatballs filled with cheese and some Arabian bread. All was good. When we finished our lunch it was already dark. But that didn’t stop us, we decided to head for the old town. Walking along the main shopping street in Plovdiv, I thought it looked quite promising. We walked past the mosque, which has a coffee shop offering the best Turkish sweets in town, according to my friend. It became one of my priorities for the next day. Meanwhile our journey continued. We walked up the steps to the old town. It seemed deserted, but this made it look all the more mysterious. We peeped through the window of an old-fashioned apocathary. I love all the glass pots and porcelain heads of medicine’s great people. Then we stopped at the House of Argir Koyoumdjioglou, which was built in 1847. One of my friends being a lover of history and of Plovdiv’s old town told me the heartbreaking story of two young lovers that died under the tree in front of this house. This happened just before the young man in question was supposed to get his parents from France for their wedding. They were kissing their goodbyes when lightning struck the tree under which they were sitting. The young lovers died, and now the tree grows in two parts, sprouting from one trunk. And indeed the tree is still there. On we went through the night, all the way up to the ancient theatre of Trimontium, which was built in the beginning of the second century by Emperor Trajanus. Concerts and performances are still given in this theatre. One of the most amazing things is that when you are inside you don’t hear anything of Plovdiv’s busy traffic. After gazing at the amazing view that you have over the city from this point, we decided that it was time for dinner. Hungry and thirsty we arrived in Gusto. Apparently the basement was a better place for dining, but unfortunately it was full. So we made do with upstairs, which was a luxurious version of the Happy Bar & Grill. After some grilled pork chops and some cheese and tomatoes, I simply couldn’t keep my eyes open any longer. It was good luck that this restaurant was so close to the hotel. The next day it was time for cake and coffee in the Viennese Salon, two steps outside our hotel. Everything was great! After a yoghurt cake, coffee and some club sandwiches, I was ready for the day. We planned to visit a small museum in an underpass, the residential building of EIPHIN from the times of ancient Thracian Philipopolis (Plovdiv). In fact it’s much bigger than the museum, but because excavation is still continuing, only part of it is open to the public. It’s extremely interesting and the woman in the museum tells us with great enthusiasm all the remarkable things about the mosaics, the structure of the house and the importance of this house to the Thracian history of Plovdiv. Next is the Saint Marina Church (1856), which is also quite special because it’s built over the relics of an old Christian temple. The iconostasis can’t be described in any other way than impressive. Some of the icons were made by the famous icon painters Nikola Odrinchanin and Stanislav Dospevsky. We have little time before our bus leaves and we decide to try the Turkish sweets at the mosque, Dgumiata. Unfortunately it’s not as great as it looks on the outside. Fake floors and dirty floors are never a good sign. But to be fair, their Baklava and Turkish coffee is great. So with full bellies we stepped on the bus back to Sofia. http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Life-off-the-beaten-path/62/72 Destinations Sliven and Yambol occupy a grey zone for most expats in Bulgaria. Far from the ski resorts in the mountains and just outside the area marked as the seaside, few foreigners have reason to venture to the two cities. They’re working towns. Regular people live there, the kind that get up and go to work in the morning. I visited both cities recently for the purpose of asking mayors what they thought about American plans to lease out military bases in the area. I accomplished my goal (more on that later), and in the process saw a slice of Bulgarian life off the beaten path. Sliven and Yambol belied some of my perceptions about the economy here. The CIA World Factbook says Bulgarians earn around 8000 US dollars a year per capita. Expats know that figure is deceptive, because wealthy people in the capital and resort towns distort the average. So we sometimes think everywhere outside of, say, Borovets and Sunny Beach, is still in the Bronze Age. But Sliven and Yambol felt like prosperous towns. They were pleasant and packed with fresh-faced people in clean, well-lighted restaurants and cafes. Other than the occasional Communist-era concrete dinosaur, the architecture of both cities was humane and often older than the Second World War. Walking down their main thoroughfares, talk of Bulgaria’s “transition” and “the challenges” the nation faces seemed irrelevant. Accordion players, teenagers smooching, old folks strolling and young couples pushing babies in prams fill the large park at the southern end of Sliven’s main walking street, Tsar Osvoboditel Boulevard. The park is better designed and better situated than the green spaces on the fringes of Sofia’s downtown, which lie beyond busy streets and which seem foreboding after dark (apart from the outdoor bars, that is). We ate at Zamuka’s, an outdoor restaurant in the park where customers kept looking over their shoulders at us because we were speaking English. They weren’t being rude. A few people nodded, as if to say welcome. Dinner for two, without drinks, cost 10 leva. Sliven has a large Roma community, and, on Tsar Osvoboditel, I saw Roma folks queuing up at ATMs to receive their benefit checks. In Sliven I didn’t find any of the animosity between Roma and non-Roma people that I’ve encountered in other cities. My guide, a native Slivenian, said that while rancour occasionally breaks out, on the whole people get along. The Hotel Sliven (Tel: 624056) was a Communist-era behemoth that I wouldn’t recommend to anyone expecting top-shelf service and quality. But at 20 leva a night, and located in the heart of town, I didn’t care about the malfunctioning elevators and dingy rooms. The hotel hosted a wedding on the second night I stayed there. Apparently, as part of the ceremony, the bride ran away from the party and the groom and his pals had to go find her in a game of hide-and-seek. We were invited to join in the game but declined. Everyone was pretty drunk, running around the town centre and yelling rowdily. They were loud, and I had a hard time getting to sleep that night, but I didn’t hold it against them. Since it rained on the day we planned to hike up the Blue Rocks, a mountain that looms over the city, we scrapped our plans for outdoor exercise. My guide told me a chairlift takes visitors up to the top, where one can see for miles around the Stara Planina. She described Silven, and Yambol, too, as cities where people enjoy the outdoors hiking, fishing and hunting. I’ll return someday to enjoy those pleasures. It seems odd that Sliven and Yambol are slated to become parts of American’s far-flung military empire. They appear to be in the middle of nowhere, but in fact they’re closer to conflict zones in the Middle East, the Caucasus and Central Asia than the US’s current main European bases in Germany, Italy and the United Kingdom. Plans have yet to be unveiled officially, but the US wants to expand or reconstruct the bases and use them for American troops, planes and equipment. Novo Selo, an artillery range, is near Sliven. Bezmer Air Base is near Yambol, in Tundja municipality, where less than 30 000 residents live. Georgi Stoianov Georgiev, the mayor of Tundja, couldn’t be more positive about the US proposal to come to Bezmer. The air base is 53 years old, Georgiev said, but its benefit to the area has declined with the fall of the Warsaw Pact. “It’s obvious that the base has to be reconstructed,” he said. Georgiev likened the US’s presence to that of a large factory. Tundja has an unemployment rate of 20 per cent, he said. Most of those unemployed people live out in the villages away from the centre of town. “The taxes from the local workers [at the base] are very important to the development of the region,” he said. The larger, political issues surrounding an American presence in Yambol weren’t really on the mayor’s radar. From his point of view, the short-term benefits outweighed any possible long-term problems. “No country can escape from the influence of larger countries,” he said. “I’m just thinking totally practically on behalf of the municipality.” An old mosque sits outside the mayor’s office, a reminder of Bulgaria’s past relations with larger countries. Hopefully this new era will prove more amicable. http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Sunday-afternoon-in-Radomir/62/73 Destinations There are abandoned playgrounds all over Radomir, though it is not a childless town. When I visited on a Sunday afternoon, there were a few children out riding bicycles and a few others walking with their parents, but most, as I could tell from the noise coming from the apartment buildings, were inside, trying to escape the oppressive July heat. Not that there was anything inviting about the playgrounds. The swing sets had no swings. The climbing frames were rusted and warped. The slides were broken. And most of the playgrounds weren’t in the shade.Like Pernik, Radomir is a depressed factory town about an hour by train outside Sofia whose glory days coincided with the height of Communism. Unlike Pernik, which has modern cafes, clothes stores and GSM outlets in its centre and is beginning to find new life as an exurb of Sofia, Radomir seems trapped in its moment. The large artificial lake in the park had been drained and was now covered in weeds; it’s hard to imagine it ever being filled up again. Almost all the factories were wrecked and bare, as if they’d suffered a war. Many were reduced to large empty shells. Parts of one had been reduced to piles of bricks.People live here. Almost every house had a small, lively garden in its front yard and chickens were walking in and out of the street. Quite a few adults were spending the afternoon fixing cars in garages and others were drinking beer in the shade in front of old-style cafes.A half-built hospital, which began construction 10 years ago, loomed on a hill over Radomir; it’s probably the city’s largest structure. Almost all the bricks had been laid, glass had been placed in some of the windows and some piping had been installed. But the plaster hadn’t been put up, and the surrounding area, all overgrown with long grass and weeds, was untouched. When I asked a mechanic who lived across the street from the construction site if he knew when the hospital would be completed, he said, “In this city, nothing is ever finished.” http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Magical-Mystery-Tour(ism)/62/74 Destinations Clinging steadfastly to the cliff on which I’m perched, I daringly peer over my shoulder, little trusting the pieces of wood that hold my life in their hands. Should I fall, there’s a deadly waterslide waiting to catch me, a thrilling but perilous ride that would dash my body numerous times against piercing rocks as I was swept downstream in a churning foam of bruised water. Without warning, a large block of snow slides off the platform upon which I’m standing and, without waiting the customary time that cartoons make things hang in mid-air, plummets immediately to its doom. I try to trace its path underwater, waiting to see whether it emerges intact, but the thirsty dragon below devours it. A deep laughter coming from beside me completes the illusion of devilry, and in imagining my assailant images of animalistic ritual costumes spring to mind. As I speculate that perhaps the paw print I saw may have been that of a monster far worse than a bear, I consider making a personal sacrifice by throwing myself into the abyss.On glancing nervously in the direction from which the laughter came, I embarrassedly observe some human features in the face I’m looking at, and realise the perpetrator is actually my tour guide, Georgi Hristov. As he dusts snow off his boot, he soothingly suggests that my alarm is understandable, for indeed the area has some mystique about it, furthered by the insidious manner in which nature has carved its way through stone to form a canyon of twisted beauty.I’m very literally overlooking the Tran Gorge, yet another of Bulgaria’s natural wonders. Below me, water is cascading out of control, twirling in this direction and that in a torturous path carved through high-standing cliffs. The interaction of opposing forces is glaringly obvious as nature’s elements do battle - the water’s direction is channelled by the rocks through which it flows, in the process carving into the rock fractal fronds in similar shape to those of ink dropped into water. Mini-oases of peace occur in harbours, sheltered from the torrential force of spring snowmelt. The water cascades through numerous stages before finally emptying itself into a large pool. The pool seems ideal for a summer swim, but is less enticing in this last week of winter. The canyon may look fantastic from the relative peace of this pool, but it overwhelmingly explodes in your face upon deeper penetration.It’s an incredible rush to stand in the midst of the canyon, access to which would be impossible without special equipment were it not for the activities of PHARE. Though a visit is not for the faint-hearted, the environmentally sensitive construction principles employed in the ecotrail creation enable everyday people to benefit from Bulgaria’s beauty, without harming the environment they came to see. Wooden ladders ascend sheer verticals, wooden bridges span chasms between the 30-metre high cliffs, and the onward path is provided by wooden platforms clinging to the rock, the stuff of mountain goat envy. The Tran ecotrail also accesses a cave complete with wooden seats and an impressive view, where you may sit and observe rounded ice sculptures forming from water dripping off the cave ceiling. On the 30-minute walk from the village, there was also vast evidence of animal life - disturbed patches of leaves attested to the presence of wild pigs, and fox paw prints chased rabbit trails through the snow. It seemed that even bears were making use of the ecotrail, as the footprint in snow on one wooden platform would suggest.Unfortunately, there is evidence of human’s unsightly footprint too. A sign protesting “if you throw your rubbish here, what will you find when you come back?” seems unable to prevent water bottles from floating about the pools, nor do makeshift rubbish bins look like they have been emptied for some time. At the journey’s end lies a water bottling plant being hastily erected with scant regard to the ecotrail, obscuring sight of the PHARE sign stating intent of “Formation of a regional tourist product - a step to revival of sustainable development of Tran Municipality”. It’s another distasteful reminder of Bulgaria’s lack of cohesive environmental planning. Georgi laments that the lack of attention, observation, and awareness of environmental sensitivity and consequential tourist impressions may prevent him from bringing other tourists here.Because Tran is close to the Serbian border, for a long time access was strictly controlled, keeping this site of beauty under wraps and thus preventing it from Melnik-style development, Georgi explains. This region is full of wonder, he relates, and I nod my agreement, remembering my envious landscape survey as I previously passed on the bus from Belgrade. These off-the-map places that avoid the tourist radar and are unknown to most Bulgarians are precisely the types of places Georgi enjoys taking people. Because of their hidden nature, they often lack the infrastructure of more developed resorts, as attested to by the road conditions en-route. “The places I’m interested in are not for pretentious tourists. There are no facilities like en-suite bathroom, there are guesthouses with common bathroom - but the rooms are clean, the people are very nice and polite and friendly. These trips are for people who are not only interested to see the nature, beauty and cultural heritage but to feel the Bulgarian spirit in guesthouses and talk with people.” In return for bearing less luxurious conditions, Georgi will take you to lesser-known places of natural beauty, cultural importance, and spiritual phenomenon.We talk en route to our next destination, the Zemen monastery. His love affair with Bulgaria solidified when, while working for a Bulgarian travel magazine, the Bulgarian Association for Alternative Tourism invited him on an eight-day trip around Bulgaria. “I saw things... I was amazed... I fell in love with Bulgaria absolutely.” A period of research and travel was rewarded by a prize from Odessey magazine for finding the best sacred place in Bulgaria. “I wrote about a monastery in Strandja Mountain which was absolutely unknown for anyone. Its really a magical place with strong positive energy, with water that heals... the air is healing too.” His work has culminated in contribution to a book “The Insider’s Guide to Sofia and Beyond”, which looks at long-term foreigner’s views of Bulgaria, views that Georgi believe reveal many truths about Bulgaria that Bulgarians themselves can’t see.We arrived at the Zemen monastery with just enough time to take a quick tour before it closed for the night. The church contained therein is one of the oldest monuments of Bulgarian architecture and painting, to survive Ottoman invasion. A unique cross-dome church built entirely of stone, its simple form is nonetheless enticing, with a pleasing symmetry and regular appearance that grows on you as viewed from various angles. The interior of the church is likewise quite basic, the frescos inside realistically un-ecstatic and contain an early portrayal of honoured Bulgarian saint Ivan Rilski. Guidebooks laud the frescos, the sign at the monastery entrance suggesting they indicate development of an independent Bulgarian Renaissance style, though personally I found them mostly of interest because of their age, originating in 1354. Set on a hill overlooking a pleasant valley, the monastery itself is of little visual interest, but it enjoys an enviable view which we lapped up while we enjoyed a picnic dinner in the adjacent gardens.We travelled on the day of forgiveness, supposedly an opportunity to make up with friends and family, though for me merely a pleasing opportunity to join children in leaping through flames, and to pay a visit to my girlfriend’s grandmother for some scrumptious home-made Banitsa. I was told tales of Orpheus, fire-walking rituals in Nestinari, brightly coloured Kukeri festivals marking the end of winter, and was enlightened about a unique village where Christian, Muslim, and Jew unify to celebrate each other’s traditions and observe holy days. Georgi’s companionship presented an opportunity to have many questions answered. I returned home with a deeper understanding of Bulgaria, and now see a new, more magic Bulgaria with fresh eyes, contributing to a more vivid experience in my daily life.Georgi may be contacted via roxolan@abv.bgFor more information on possible activities: http://sofia.gayguide.net/Gay_Guide/Guided_Tours/http://art-hostel.com/cgi-bin/arthostel.pl?page=TripFullView&tid=1Ecotrails run through the canyon of Negovanka River from Emen (near Veliko Tarnovo), the 15km long Kopilovska River (near the town of Montana), Krushuna, the village of Zgorigrad nearVratza, to Drianovo Monastery near Veliko Tarnovo, along the gorge of Bujnovska in near the village of Iagodina in Rhodope, and Erma River near Tran.http://www.naturalworldtours.co.uk/tours/hiking/ecopaths.htm http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Vitosha:-slippery-slopes/62/75 Destinations It’s pure luxury, after a 10 km drive from Sofia you are in winter wonderland, a.k.a. Vitosha Mountain. On one cold Sunday afternoon I decided to make my way up, and see for myself. Slowly but surely the car made its way through Dragalevtsi, up the mountain. The road going up was covered in a mixture of snow and sand. Now and again I had to bite my lip, when the car decided to slip a little now and again in the curves. Just when I thought that the only convenient and probably secure way to make it up the mountain is in a Jeep-like vehicle, I saw an old Moskvich happily passing us by. Maybe I was wrong. The higher we went, the rougher the weather got. It was extremely windy, which caused snow hazes to whirl around. On the way I saw a stray snowboarder coming out of the bushes. Maybe he got lost somehow. There were few hotels scattered around, but they didn’t seem very impressive to me. I was heading for Aleko, almost the top of the Vitosha Mountain. When I finally arrived, the place looked somewhat deserted. There were only a couple of snowboarders standing around, looking a bit confused. A couple of ski-instructors telling these people that the weather conditions were not good and that it was dangerous to continue boarding. They were very disappointed. But honestly the wind made it impossible to see anything. One of the instructors, who didn’t want to be mentioned by name, said: “The mountain is beautiful. I spent more time during my childhood on Vitosha then with my family at home. But to tell you the truth, I am very disappointed. The facilities are really not up to standard. Some of the lifts are not working. And there is no real good quality accommodation available. Just opposite the lift is a huge hotel that’s deserted. It was build during socialist times, and after the changes it was closed. Now it just sits there. I can’t understand why nobody invests a bit of money here. It’s good that ski-resorts like Pamporovo, Bansko and Bororvets are doing fine. But how can you disregard the ski-resort closest to Bulgaria’s capital?” The young snowboarders were not as harsh in their opinions. “I love boarding here,” says XXX. “It’s so beautiful and the snow and the slopes are excellent!” Her somewhat frozen French boyfriend agrees. Further up, I found a cute Spanish couple, seeking for shelter. “It’s our first time ever that we went snowboarding, but as far as we can tell it’s very nice and beautiful,” says Paolo. “But of course we’re not experts. In any case I can say that we like Bulgaria very much!” It was high time for something hot, since I was beginning to feel a bit frozen myself. And considering that there was not much activity on the slopes, I thought people would be hiding out either at the restaurant or the ski school. The ski school was a drab affair. Bored people occupied here and there, smoking heavily. It didn’t seem like a sporty kind of atmosphere, so I decided to try my luck at the restaurant. After some heavy searching I found a block hut, which was the alleged restaurant. Upon entering I had a slight suspicion that I had entered through the kitchen or back door. But after just trying a couple of doors, indeed it seemed the restaurant’s entrance. Sadly enough there was not much going on. The entire staff of the restaurant was discussing changes in the menu, while sipping some hard liquor. There were about five guests in the restaurant, which much looked like a camping cafeteria to me, and three of them were ready to leave, leaving behind wrappers of chocolate bars. After some hot tea, I decided to head back to town. Because except for a frozen poodle, there really wasn’t anybody left. Night Skiing Want to experience the thrill of night skiing? The Zaeka run, which starts at Aleko, is a 400 meter illuminated slope. http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Treasured-history/62/76 Destinations Treasure hunters, archaeologists and ancient treasures. It sounds like the makings of an Indiana Jones film, but this adventure is taking place right here in Bulgaria, right now. The past two years have seen a wealth of treasures unearthed dating back to the times of the Thracians, who inhabited what is now present day Bulgaria, along with parts of Romania, Greece, Turkey, Serbia and Macedonia, as long ago as the 5th millennium BCE. Last year’s big find was the 2400 year-old Golden Mask, which had people queuing up in the street to see it. Now discoveries are being made so often as to almost have become commonplace. The latest sensation is the treasure discovered in the tomb of a Thracian ruler thought to date from the 4th century BCE. Although the finding, made near Yambol in eastern Bulgaria, has received some media coverage, there is no great hype surrounding the display at Sofia’s National History Museum. However, the treasures speak for themselves. As Svetla Tsaneva says, the gold leaf head wreath “radiates power”. It glitters, seemingly floating in its display case, as though it was made only yesterday. As the museum’s restorer, Tsaneva knows more than most just how inaccurate an assumption this would be. The corridors smell of history as she leads us to the inner sanctum where the restoration work is taking place. There is a buzz of purpose in the air as white-coated staff mill about in the laboratory. Phones are constantly ringing. Every available surface is littered with artefacts from throughout the ages. Medieval chain mail lies casually on a table; searching under some papers Tsaneva inadvertently uncovers some beautifully engraved Roman armour. The laboratory, hidden away in the underbelly of the museum, may deal in history thousands of years old, but it is very much alive. Tsaneva was responsible for the speedy restoration of the gold wreath and ring, which are the first of the treasures from the latest discovery to be put on display. She shows us pictures of them as they were when they were discovered in Zlatinitsa, in the Yambol region. The pieces look surprisingly bright and shiny even on first discovery. Salt water and alcohol were used to restore them to the sparkling, pristine condition in which they can now be seen. Tsaneva points to the photo of the ring, which depicts a scene of a horseman and a woman, “we were laughing that the horse was so small with this big figure,” she says, “but in fact the man who was buried in this tomb was over 190cm tall.” As the technology used to make the ring is more primitive than that used in the wreath, it is thought that the ring is older, possibly handed down from father to son. The figure of the woman is interpreted as being the Great Mother Goddess, she is handing the horseman a cup in a scene of initiation. The Great Mother Goddess and her son, who happens to have been immaculately conceived, are important figures in Thracian religion. “That’s why I think the Thracians took to Christianity so well; because it’s a mother and son like their own belief.” The Mother Goddess also appears on the greaves (shin armour) found in the tomb, which Tsaneva shows us, saying, “Thracian art is more severe, more primitive in one way, because they didn’t believe in gods that are ideally beautiful. The symbol was absolutely enough. They believed in the god in themselves. They didn’t idolise goddesses and gods.” It’s difficult to say how far back Thracian beliefs go; they didn’t have an alphabet, so the only written records we have got about them are what was written down by other cultures. “We have written data about the Thracians from the moment the Greeks started to travel around and write about their neighbours,” says Tsaneva. The lack of an alphabet makes identifying the skeleton- and owner of the treasures- difficult, as there are no inscriptions, although there is a theory that it could be Kerseblept, son of the Thracian King Kotis I. There has also been speculation that the wreath was awarded as an Olympic crown. Tsaneva dismisses this however, saying that every citizen of Athens had such a crown and that there were lists of Olympic champions, on which no Thracian King appears. The wreath itself consists of gold leaves with identical veins, suggesting that they have been stamped. The winged goddess Nike, depicted in the centre at the front of the wreath is not just a pretty face; she contributes a functional element to the design, as a clasp. However, it is the gold discs that loop down on either side of the wreath that are what Tsaneva describes as being truly “sensational in the scientific sense”. These were minted like coins, by being pressed with dice on both sides, but it’s how the gold leaf out of which these discs were made was fashioned that is the interesting part. “In old times they started making gold leaf by hammering gold between pieces of leather,” Tsaneva explains. “Until now it was thought that they started to ‘draw’ it at the beginning of the Common Era by rolling it between two plates. But on these discs you can see parallel lines which you get from the rollers, so they take this date four centuries back.” This exciting new discovery may have far reaching implications, requiring archaeologists to rethink some of their assumptions about this period of history, and Tsaneva expects that they will be published in international scientific journals. There are more firsts among the treasures. For instance, the leather lining found for the first time preserved inside a helmet. Tsaneva says that they had thought that helmets must have been lined with some kind of material, otherwise when a warrior was struck on the head with a metal spear it would have a cartoon effect – doiiiinnnggg!- the blow reverberating on the metal. But up until now there hadn’t been any evidence that a lining had been used. However, pulling a sealed bag from a cupboard, Tsaneva presents the solid evidence. It’s amazing to think that this piece of leather was once in contact with a living, breathing warrior’s head, sweating with the adrenalin of battle some 2500 years ago. Other items which have amazingly survived the passage of time are the pieces of leather which can still be seen preserved inside the horse tacks, settling a dispute between archaeologists as to how the tacks were fastened to the horse. The tacks, along with some silver vessels and tiny spoons, possibly used for administering ointments or for cleaning the ruler’s ears- silver is antiseptic- will be the next artefacts to go on display in October. Tsaneva and her colleagues are working hard to get them ready. Tsaneva estimates that the rest of the treasures will take another year to a year-and-a-half to restore. That’s for those items it will be possible to restore at all. Some of the treasures did not fare well at the hands of archaeologists. A number of bronze vessels lie broken sealed inside a case in controlled conditions with silica gel. All of the bronze items were whole when the tomb was discovered, but sadly they were broken upon their removal from the site. They were fully corroded with no metal core remaining, just minerals, so that when they were touched, they crumbled. The only bronze pieces that remained intact have gone to the Institution of Archaeology as it was their employees who carried out the dig, although it was the National Museum of History that financed it. Usually findings are split according to who pays for digs. The perennial problem of money persists even in a field as culturally and historically rich as this one, though the past few years have seen some improvements, even if driven by a desire for profits, rather than to discover and preserve the country’s history. “The first years of the transition were very hard,” says Tsaneva. “No one wanted to give money to help with the findings. But now we have a lot of tourists, and tourists are not coming just for the sea and the mountains, they want to learn something about the land, the people, the history, and that’s why they understood that they have to give to the National Heritage for people to come.” Even so, in a story that has become all too familiar, the money is coming from businesses and institutions, and not the Ministry of Culture. However, despite the lack of funds, incredible finds continue to be made. We are lucky enough to be given a preview of the next big sensation, which will be on display in the museum in the next couple of weeks. Like many of the finds, this one was first made by chance. Tsaneva says that story goes that it only came to the attention of the professionals “when one of our archaeologists saw a village woman wearing an unusual necklace of gold beads and asked her where she got it from. She told them that her husband had found the beads in a field and she put them on a string.” When the archaeologist went to investigate, they found that these gold beads lying around in the field were a staggering 5000 years old. Five thousand! The find, made near Karlovo in central Bulgaria (140km east of Sofia) was made last autumn and a colleague, whose enviable task it is to locate and extract the miniscule gold beads from the mud, has been excavating since the spring. Fifteen thousand tiny gold pieces have been recovered so far, and still the work continues. The beads, thought to have been used in hair and body adornments, bring new questions. Even after examining them under a microscope, Tsnavea says she does not know yet how they were made. She thinks that a view through an electron microscope should provide the answers by showing the places in which they were soldered, but as the Zlatinitsa treasure shows, one can never be sure. Tsaneva is constantly amazed at the technologies used by ancient people to craft metal. The techniques we have now, she says are not all that different from those used thousands of years ago. The basics have remained pretty much unchanged, the main difference is that now we have much more advanced technology to help us. With a Masters degree in atomic physics, Tsaneva knows what she’s talking about. She held the chair of conservation and restoration at Academy of fine and applied arts for 17 years, before coming to work at the Museum of National History about six years ago. “But here it’s much more interesting,” she confides, casually dropping a 5000 year-old gold bead into the palm of my hand. Indeed it is her hands-on approach and infectious enthusiasm that help to restore and breath life back into Bulgaria’s treasured history. http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Ups-and-downs-in-Pamporovo/62/77 Destinations The Irish tourist with whom I was sharing lunch had a gleam of happy enthusiasm in her eye.We were having lunch a short falling distance from the beginner’s slopes in Pamporovo, while her husband and my wife were off further up Snezhanka peak, skiing on slopes appropriate to their respective degrees of skill.The Irish couple was from a town just south of the Northern Irish border. For her husband, it was the latest of many visits he had made in the past 20 years. It was her fourth, and she and two of her small children were sharing a novice skiing class with me. She laughingly confessed it was not the first time that she was trying to learn to ski. This time was to prove no success either. She and the children did not turn up after lunch on day two, and after that I found myself by default in an individual class. Not a bad thing, although she and the little children had made good company for me; but we Africans need special attention in skiing classes, because we are just not used to this crunchy white stuff called snow.Back to lunch, and back to the Irish. Of her husband, the tourist told me: “he just loves Bulgaria. And so do I”.There were many accents like hers to be heard in Pamporovo in that week, cheering each other on down the slopes, keeping the bar people busy, and occasionally braving an attempt to haggle with Pamporovo’s taxi drivers.All this past year I had followed with great interest the unfolding saga of Bulgaria’s tourist industry. The Sofia Echo takes the subject sufficiently seriously that we run a column on it every week. Of course, few Bulgarian newspapers of note had failed to record the reports published in foreign countries about tourism in Bulgaria.Conventional wisdom has come down to a number of points. One is that Bulgaria’s tourism industry is ever-growing. Another is that a threat to it is that the country will not remain affordable, and related to this point is that the country will have to do a lot more than simply sell itself on the basis of being cheaper than other destinations. A further, and much-reported, issue has been that of “construction tourism” at seaside and winter resorts, with construction continuing during the respective high seasons, and alienating visitors.Well yes, I had seen media reports of some controversy about construction continuing at Pamporovo, although during our daily commuting between our hotel and the slopes, I saw no evidence of it. Yes, Pamporovo is less “affordable” than it was when we first visited together four years ago.Time for a few realities. The Irish tourist couple did not regard cost as any kind of factor. Before you rush to say that spending leva means nothing to wealthy Europeans, this is a couple composed of a husband who is a teacher, and a wife who broke off her career eight years ago to produce their three children – the youngest just 11 months ago.What was it this couple enthused about? The atmosphere. The people – Bulgarians, themselves. As the tourist put it to me, “the hospitality, the warmth, the ability to have a good time, to put themselves out for us”.I wish all the skeptics could have heard this conversation, including those who say that Bulgarians have learnt nothing about the service ethic.Listening to her, I responded that the night before our conversation, I had seen BNT’s programme Dalekogled, which had featured an Irish expatriate saying that he had felt very much at home in the past four years here because, he believed, the Irish and Bulgarians had very much in common, at the level of the soul and in approach to life.She agreed, and said she believed that was one of the reasons her husband had come back so often.When I met him, I said to her husband that I was very glad to meet a “return tourist” because of concerns that people would come to the country only once, tick it off their list – or go home with bad word of mouth because of “construction tourism” or bad service – and never come back.He laughed, his face red with the exertion of the slopes, and said he hoped to come back many, many times.His wife did not feel in the least deprived by her continuing inadequacy at learning to ski.“The apres-ski is the best thing, after all, isn’t it?”The attractions of Pamporovo’s bars and restaurants were, it seems, one of the reasons that she and some of the other tourists removed themselves from the slopes at one stage or another. “Bulgarian wine is very good, but it goes down rather too easily. So I’m feeling a bit pale today. Still, I wish it were easier to get it in Ireland. The stuff they export really isn’t the best”.I smiled when she asked me whether or not the country was in the European Union. Living every day with coverage of the issue of whether or not Bulgaria will deal adequately with major issues like judiciary reform and thus meet its January 2007 appointment, I found it refreshing to meet someone to whom it was not a real issue, and who had half an impression that Bulgaria already had achieved this Holy Grail of European respectability.All around me foreign tourists, including one Western diplomat and his wife who were happily incognito, were having a good time, and it is correct to record my own impressions, those of someone who is now in his fourth year of living in Bulgaria. In a word: good. Rental of ski equipment, and the lessons, were not cheap but nor were they exorbitant. Service everywhere was decent. With the exception of New Year’s Day, machines cleaned the roads to keep them safe. There was much more signage in English (and in better English) than during my first visit four years ago.And if I sound in a good mood, it is not that the people of Pamporovo slipped me a few leva to write something nice about them. It is because, with the very patient teaching and encouragement of a young lady called Biserka, and with a tumble or four, and a few stops to catch my breath, on New Year’s Day, I somehow made it down the green slope of Snezhanka. For a middle-aged African, that’s not bad, don’t you think? It’s enough to make me want to go back. http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Bliss-in-Beli-Iskar/62/78 Destinations In spite of its proximity to the overcrowded winter resort Borovets and the town of Samokov, the village of Beli Iskar still retains its quiet beauty and blissful peace and the feeling of being somewhere far, far away. Until it becomes part of the Super Borovets resort, a time that is fast approaching, many people are likely to stay “Beli what?” when I tell them that our party of nine spent a great three days there celebrating New Year. My reaction was pretty much the same when this newspaper’s Editor-in-Chief was telling me about the good time he spent at the weekend home of friends of his in Beli Iskar. But I remembered the name of the place when, while looking for a place to spend the New Year holidays, I saw an ad on the website of Zig Zag travel agency for the Diva Reka house in Beli Iskar. With little hesitation, I booked the house for five with a tavern with a fireplace and negotiated for an additional four places in a neighbouring house. Our main concern was how to get there without a car, and I was assured by the travel agency that there were busses running regularly from Sofia to Samokov and from there to Beli Iskar, only seven km further, and that the roads are kept in good condition even in the winter. The other main concern, of course, was how we were going to eat, because the price included only a New Year dinner and drinks. The travel agency told me that there were at least two taverns in the village, and that the hosts would be willing to cook for us for a negotiable additional fee. With this sorted out, we left Sofia on the morning of December 30, complete with snow gear, ski, red wine and good spirits. To our greatest delight, a few km after the Iskar dam on the road to Samokov, it became apparent that there would be lots of snow, nothing like the few hesitant snowflakes in Sofia. We found the house easily enough, and were welcomed by the hosts with cups of coffee and amiable smiles. All of us were genuinely surprised (after all we are Bulgarians and tend to doubt everything) with the fact that the house was all we ever expected, and even more, with a bathtub, slippers and a set of clean new towels for everyone and a TV set with cable in each room. The mehana (tavern) in the cellar had a blazing fireplace, wooden panelling, a long wooden home-made table and old-style couches with cushions which could easily accommodate 10 to 12 people, a bar and a cupboard full of glasses and cups of all sorts. It turned out that the house was in the two-star category. We arranged for a dinner with the hosts and set off for Borovets with a cute little Citroen C2, which got stuck in the snow shortly after entering Borovets. The ski resort was overcrowded, noisy and rather kitsch, and we hurried to get back to the peace and quiet of Beli Iskar. After a filling dinner and lots of bottles of wine, we went to bed. It turned out that the saying that in the mountains one gets very hungry and needs less sleep than usual was true, and we woke up early in spite of initial plans for sleeping late and lounging till noon. In spite of the low clouds and fog outside, we went for a walk and had a fight with snowballs in a big empty field behind the church at the edge of the village. We returned for lunch and an afternoon nap to prepare for the long night. The pleasant surprise was when I got an SMS from the Zig Zag travel agency wishing me a happy new year and informing me that in the event of problems, I could call the number of the person on duty. The only problem we encountered was the rather stupendous amount of food our hosts had prepared. I managed through the appetizers, the salad, the fried trout with saute potatoes, the huge chunk of home made banitza with leek and cheese, the home made yoghurt, but could not make it through the three chicken steaks and left them for the following day. After the midnight toasts, wishes and horo (traditional circular dance), the old hosts, dyado Krum and baba Zdravka came down to the mehana to bring us a bottle of special home made rakia and to share a toast with us. In spite our best efforts to sleep late on the following day, most of us were up by 11am and had coffee in the lounge. In the afternoon we went to the yard of the house and made a snowman and his snow girlfriend, played with the two cats and the two dogs, had a walk and had dinner. At a certain point in the evening the electricity went off but we nonchalantly kept on playing cards by the light of the fireplace and a candle. On the following day the electricity was not back yet but we had to leave for Sofia anyway. “And don’t you write bad things about us in the newspaper,” said dyado Krum, on finding out that I am a journalist. http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Rila-Magic/62/79 Destinations With icy streams gurgling through lush tree-covered mountains, it’s easy to see why Ivan Rilski chose the Rila mountains to lead his hermetic life. Our accommodation was a notch up from Rilski’s cave, but only just. Organised as ever, we had completely failed to book anything in advance and first decided to try our luck at the Zodiak campsite where we were greeted with what sounded like a German take on traditional Bulgarian music, a strange mixture of a manic clarinet being played over an um-pa-pa beat. It was a hit with campsite’s residents, who were already on the dance floor, arms linked, legs flailing every which way giving the impression of a drunken millipede. I think we were all relieved to find that the bungalows were fully booked. The Bor Campsite proved to be a much more peaceful option. Friends and families sat around, reading and lazing in the afternoon sun. The huts were basic, their green paint peeling, and their beds sagging, but the sheets were clean, the sun shining and the fresh mountain air tinged with the smoke of camp fires was invigorating. After paying the grand sum of 10 leva for a hut for the night we enjoyed a beer at the outdoor cafe, feeling very rustic, sitting by a wood-fuelled stove, on stools made from tree trunks. We decided to walk the short distance to the monastery to experience it in the peacefulness of the evening. We were happily chatting, idly wandering along the shady road, snaking its way through the mountains, when we were nearly flattened by a car speeding round the corner of the narrow road. After this we were quick to locate the path off the road running along next to the river, a more pleasant, and definitely safer route. Our dice with death was made worthwhile, however, when we entered the monastery. It’s as though all those hundreds of years of the monks’ silence and contemplation have soaked into the bricks, every stone absorbing a tranquility over time which can now be felt in an almost tangible aura of calm and peacefulness. A handful of other people were enjoying the quiet evening, filling their bottles with spring water or relaxing after a hard day’s hiking against beautiful black and white striped pillars. The domed church and old tower are in the centre of the courtyard edged by tall residential buildings. The striped pillars and arches and the numerous staircases of these four-storey buildings containing the monks’ cells, give them an Escher-like appearance. The church is painted with rich, colourful murals, many of which were signed by the Revival artist Zahari Zograph in 1844. One scene caused a scandal at the time it was painted, as it depicted people bound for heaven, painted on the right, and those bound for hell, painted on the left. Members of the aristocracy appeared on the left. After sitting and soaking the up the atmosphere, we dragged ourselves away for some supper in one of the restaurants surrounding the monastery, by the rushing stream. Then it was time make the walk back to our hut. The most organised person in our party had brought a torch, but we also had our own guide to help us find our way home. A dog joined us as we were leaving the village. At first we tried to shoo him home, not sure whether he was a guardian angel helping to show us our way back, or a hell hound ready to pounce. Luckily, he was the former, melting away into the night after accompanying us safely to the campsite. We also had a helping hand in the form of the flickering lights in the trees. I was the first to spot these, and when I tried to show my companions they dismissed me as having had one too many glasses of wine with dinner. However, as we walked further it was impossible to ignore the small greenish lights twinkling in the branches above us. The glowworms were everywhere, making our walk home one through an enchanted forest. Emerging into the clearing, the huts looked like Hansel and Gretel’s cottage, their windows glowing through identical pink curtains. We settled into bed feeling like we were part of a fairy-tale. The next morning was magic in a different way - fresh and bright, with a few clouds racing across the tips of the mountains. We returned to the monastery to see inside the church, which had been closed the day before as we got there after 6pm. With its glittering gold and vividly painted icons it was beautiful, and even on a summer’s day the place wasn’t swarming with the hordes we’d expected. Breakfast was of fresh doughnuts showered with icing sugar, which found its way over me more than them, and sheep’s yoghurt, all bought from a small shop near the monastery and eaten sitting with toes dangling into the icy mountain stream. It was difficult to leave this enchanting place, and I’m sure a return visit is on the cards, maybe on August 18 for St Rilski day, when a dip in the stream in honour of the monk may be in order. http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Stone-Sleuthing:-The-Starosel---Chetinyova-Mogila/62/80 Destinations About 140 km southeast of Sofia, outside of the town of Starosel, Bulgaria, sits an impressive Thracian shrine known as the Chetinyova Mogila (mogila). Formed in the shape of a hill, the mogila has a grand view of the Pyasuchnik River Valley and is clearly the effort of powerful king. Some suggest it is the final resting place of Sitalkes, who during his brief life of 20 years extended the Thracian empire from the Danube River to the Aegean Sea. The historical details are uncertain, yet the magnificent dry stone construction remains in good shape after 2400 years of wear. My intention in visiting the Chetinyova Mogila was to approach its mysteries from a geological perspective. On first notice, I was impressed with the technical knowledge and workmanship that were required to construct it. About 300 stone blocks of decorative granite were used in the outer wall surrounding the earthen dome, the central staircase, and the hallway leading into the inner chambers. At roughly 250 kg each, the total weight of stone for the exterior construction equals 75 metric tons. As I admired the exterior work, one question loomed in my mind: where is the quarry for the granite stone blocks? Local stone seemed to be the obvious answer. With two colleagues, I identified the stone found along hillside road cuts and in quarries behind the shrine, but it was not the same. The local granites had a visibly light mineral texture, referred to as leucogranites. On the other hand, the mogila granite had a darker mineral texture, a greater content of the mineral plagioclase, and large pink crystals (phenocrysts) of alkali feldspar up to 1.5 inches in length to 0.5 inches in width. Based on these features, the mogila granite is described as a porphyritic granodiorite with large phenocrysts of pink alkali feldspar. In the stone trade, the mogila stone material is simply referred to as granite. To find its source, more field research was required. There is a saying that if you want to know the local geology – look to the walls of the towns. Working on this assumption, we continued our fieldwork along the outskirts of Starosel. We happened across chunks of the mogila granite haphazardly stacked in a yard, readied for the construction of a fence. Neighbours told us it was from the local quarries, the owner did as well, but it was clearly not so. When the neighbours had left, we stayed on to talk with the owner. Eventually he told us the stone had been taken from the remains of a farm storage building, not far away. Following his directions down a muddied road, we found the building. Its wall piers had been constructed with the same granite used in the mogila. The building had been raised during the communist period that ended in 1989. The mogila was built in the later half of the 4th century BCE and only recently unearthed in 2000. The storage building and the mogila had been built for very different reasons and during very different historical periods. Yet each structure shared a link to a common quarry found beyond the immediate area, but where? One of the professors engaged in the field research, hypothesized that rock from the Hisar pluton was the source of the mogila granite. During the Paleozoic Era, 310 – 340 million years ago, the Hisar pluton consisted of molten rock that cooled very slowly deep below the surface. In this environment, large phenocrysts of pink alkali feldspar could develop. We followed the lead and took the potholed road from Starosel to Hisar. Upon our arrival in Hisar, it was easy to choose a local wall for inspection. The Roman and Byzantine city/fortress wall of Diocletianopolis as it was called, stood 30 feet high in greeting. The massive wall was built with successive coursings of cemented stone and bricklayers. Close inspection revealed it contained porphyritic granodiorite with large phenocrysts of pink alkali feldspar – our mogila granite. In discussion with local residents, we discovered the source of the granite in an abandoned quarry in the Momina Banya quarter of Hisar. In ancient times, the Thracians shaped the granite rock into building blocks at the quarry. Typical blocks were fabricated to measurements of three feet in length and 1.5 feet in width and height. They were then transported by horse drawn cart to the site of the mogila some thirteen miles away as the road turns. Final fabrication of the stone was likely made on-site. Each block was finished with a pitched face; meaning laborers diligently squared the surfaces of the blocks with a hammer and chisel. Subsequently, the granite blocks were fit snuggly into place without the use of mortar and held together in key structural points with iron rods coated with lead. Part of the mystery had been solved. Our attention now turns to the soft, green stone that makes up the interior hallway and central chamber of the mogila. Known as an analcime tuff, Thracian stone masons precisely shaped, fitted, and installed massive blocks of it weighing as much as one metric ton each. The durable tuff was carved to display simple yet elegant details on the trim of the doorways. In addition, tuff blocks were fabricated and installed to form 10 Doric columns in the rounded central chamber, curved beams above the columns, and the central interior dome. Of particular interest is damage to the back wall of the central chamber. The grooved cuts into the tuff, coated with a mineral film (gypsum and anhydrite) suggest ancient vandalism. Was this damage the work of a Thracian king who ruled after Sitalkes? As we continue our inspection of the tuff blocks and search for the quarry, perhaps we can find the answer. Edward Monroe is conducting research in Bulgaria through a Fulbright Fellowship. His research project is entitled, “Building Stones of Bulgaria from Ancient Times to the Present”. The purpose is to create an educational field guide to Bulgaria’s unique historical stone buildings. Drs. Veselin Kovachev and Rossen Nedialkov from the Department of Mineralogy, Petrology, and Economic Geology of Sofia University, “St. Kliment Orhidski”, provide research support. Inquiries can be directed to ewmonroedc@hotmail.com http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Daytripping/62/81 Destinations It's a pleasant surprise how venturing a mere 20 minutes out of Sofia brings you into tree-covered mountains, refreshingly erasing any remnants of urban life from the landscape. There aren’t many other capital cities I’ve been to from which you can escape the bright lights and be amid goat herders, fields and hills so quickly. These qualities have proved very useful in keeping entertained the seemingly endless stream of friends and family that has come this summer to find out what all the fuss on Bulgaria is about. This has meant rediscovering, or in many cases, discovering for the first time, some of the sights right on our doorstep which we didn’t get around to seeing in our initial burst of exploration upon our arrival in Bulgaria, and which we have since become too complacent as regular Sofia dwellers to bother visiting. The following are a few suggestions of places to visit within easy reach of Sofia, which serve well as part of day trips for visiting friends and family, or may be of interest if you are a visitor to Bulgaria and find yourself with a day to spare in Sofia and want to head out of town. Lake Iskar Turning off the ring road toward Samokov and Lake Iskar, brings you first to Panchervo, a stretch of water lined with restaurants and cafes, which I thought quite impressive until we continued driving upstream for another half an hour or so and reached the main lake. The drive itself is enjoyable, the road winding gently through the mountains, suddenly revealing a steep drop and a view of tree-covered mountain tops, before descending again, affording glimpses of water skirting one side of the road and hedgerows speckled with purple flowers flashing past on the other. Pedal boats and tents can be hired at spots along the road and even on this somewhat grey and overcast day, the bright sails of windsurfers and sailing boats could be seen scudding across the lake. A couple of jet-skis were also skimming across the water in a roaring mist of spray. We stopped in one of the many lay-bys next to a track leading down to the lake, hoping to go for a walk along its banks. The trees made it difficult to walk along the bank, and it has to be noted that the amount of rubbish littering the woods was pretty disgraceful, but this didn’t deter the pockets of fishermen that were dotted along the water’s edge. We spotted a path on the other side of the lake and the next half hour was spent trying to find a way to the other side, which consisted of a few abortive attempts at driving the car along bumpy tracks, still under water from the recent heavy rain in many places. Now, if we’d had a jeep and not my “trusty” old machine, complete with bumper tied on with a bit of washing line, we may have been a little more adventurous, but the prospect of glugging to an embarrassing halt in the middle of a large puddle – more a small pond really – was both equally likely and unappealing. So, sadly, we had to abandon our mission to get to the other side. However, we did see cars and people over there, so it must be possible somehow! All was not lost and we consoled ourselves with lunch and a beer at one of the restaurants at the lake’s edge watching the activity on the water. With its pedal boats, windsurfers and canoes for hire, its restaurants and opportunities for picnicking, camping and fishing, as well as its easy accessibility from the capital – about one-and-a -half hours by car – its easy to see why Lake Iskar is a popular weekend getaway for Sofians. Iskar Camping (Tel: 07126300) seven leva a pitch/12 leva bungalows. Take the Samokov bus from the Yug bus station. Simeonovo Gondola Maybe it’s a British thing, but the word “gondola”, for me, conjures up images of punting down the canals of Venice rather than being transported up the side of Vitosha mountain in a metal box hanging from a cable. Nevertheless, this is what you can expect from a trip on the gondola at Simeonovo, just off Sofia’s north-western stretch of ring road. The trip up the mountain to Aleko, named after Aleko Konstantinov, the Bulgarian writer who originally came up with the idea of hiking in the region in the 19th century, takes about half an hour. Along the way you are treated to aerial views of trees and fields and a great view across the city-only for those with a head for heights. There’s a restaurant at the final stop where you can have a beer and something to eat – the beans tasted especially good, maybe it was the high altitude – before making the return trip or taking a hike around Vitosha National Park. A 30-minute walk brings you to Goli Vrah, where you can take the chairlift down to Dragalevtski. The chairlift at Aleko takes you to within a 30 minute walk from the summit. Opening times: Summer (May 1- September 30) Fri/Sat/Sun 8.30am-6pm Winter (October 1- March 31) Fri/Sat/Sun 9am-4.30pm Price: 2.50 leva one way, five leva return. Take bus 123 from the Hladilnika terminal to the gondola station. Boyana Church A man leans peacefully against the trunk of an ancient tree inside the gate to the church gardens. The gardens are heavy with the smells and sights of nature. Pine trees and sycamores line the path to church, which itself has a dense covering of ivy. Having bought tickets from the booth (10 leva for foreigners), we were nonplussed as to why no one was entering the church’s small, heavily pockmarked door. A woman helpfully explained that only six people at a time were allowed to enter the church, giving rise to the theory that the pockmarks were the calling cards of impatient tourists. However, we dutifully waited our turn, wandering around the old 13th century building and watching the squirrels scampering in the walnut trees. When our turn came the murals, dating back to 1259 were indeed impressive, but would have been more so if we’d been able to understand the guide’s explanations. I’d recommend paying the extra five leva for a tour in English. The church is signposted, along with the National Museum of History – which is situated nearby – from the Sofia ring road. However, the signs helpfully disappear before you reach the church; turn left into the square with the souvenir shops and continue up the road a short way to find it. Tel: 685304. Opening times: Tuesday- Sunday from 9am, last tour at 5.30pm. http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Taking-a-natural-interest/62/82 Destinations Our Earth is an art gallery and nature never ceases to amaze. It is hard to capture the world’s amazing beauty inside four walls, but the National Museum of Natural History has done quite a good job of it. This museum displays much of Bulgaria’s raw and natural beauty along with numerous exotic and extraordinary treasures from far and wide. For the average person much of what makes up the world is a mystery, however this museum is big enough to tickle the senses while also small enough not to be overwhelming. The biggest downside from a tourist point of view is that the majority of the flora and fauna is labelled either in Bulgarian or with the Latin scientific name. But even so, just seeing what nature has to offer is awe-inspiring and leaves a feeling of what an amazing world we live in. It is a shame that the museum does not offer descriptive text in English or a guidebook to assist the visitor to learn more about what’s on show. However, the fact that it is situated in the centre of Sofia and only costs two leva for foreigners and one lev for Bulgarians, means that the museum remains cheap enough to frequent after some personal research on what has taken your interest. The ground floor is dedicated to minerals from all over the world. Each rock or funky formation is labelled with its chemical compounds and its origin. An ultraviolet-lit display shows how beautiful the colours are of some of the minerals that the rocks are made up of. Scuba divers know well the beauty of the ocean and some of the exhibits are not dissimilar to the underwater view of a gorgeous bed of coral. It’s a lesson in science while admiring the earth’s natural art. On the way to the second level the stairs are lined with some excellent live displays; a huge green iguana, some very curious and playful red-cheeked turtles and, for snake lovers, an American corn snake and a reticulated python. There is an enormous array of stuffed birds, both big and small, and in all fairness some of the taxidermy is excellent. The largest is a two-and-a-half-metre ostrich, while many are simply magnificent like the great bustard with a wingspan of over a metre. The smallest I found, I am told was a variety of the humming bird: Chrysolampis Mosquitus – no it’s not a mosquito, but it is incredibly small. The marine display doesn’t capture the splendour of the ocean and some of the displays are quite basic. Understandably the coral is dead and in fact the mineral exhibits give a better feel of what coral looks like underwater. The shark model is very ordinary, but in overcoming this disappointment, what is on offer is comprehensive enough from a scientific perspective. It is impressive that some full-sized examples of the world’s rarest creatures are on show, like the white rhino and Asian tiger. After seeing some kangaroos mid tour I started to feel close to home and not long after with great surprise I found a New Zealand kiwi! The brown bear display has an interesting characteristic. The bear’s nose is pressed up against the glass, and for some reason it appeared to be misting up, maybe the kid in front of me got a little too close...Whether it’s ghost came back to visit or not, the display shows why this is the richest museum of its kind in South Eastern Europe. The upper level of the museum is dedicated primarily to flora and insects, with rows and rows of ants, flies, cockroaches, mosquitoes, and many different varieties of butterflies. Not so exciting for me, but if you are partial to the creepy crawly well worth checking out. In summary, an hour or two well spent. Bulgarian Academy of Sciences National Museum of Natural History – Sofia 1 Tsar Osvoboditel Blvd 1000 Sofia, Bulgaria Phone: +359 2 988 2894 http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Following-the-yellow-brick-road/62/83 Destinations Armed with a camera, a pencil and a notebook, Clive Cooper set out to explore Sofia’s yellow brick road that runs through the area surrounding Alexander Nevski. A ‘Bulgarian virgin’, this being his first visit to the country, and having no knowledge of the language, this stranger in a strange land set forth to roam. I started from the Alexander Nevski church, which was very impressive, and even though it was quite busy with tourists there was a great atmosphere of peace and tranquillity. I bought a coffee and a croissant on the way to Sofia City Gardens where I sat by the fountains. It was a lovely day with only a little cloud, or two. My next stop was the Ethnographical Museum opposite the gardens. Only one of the two floors seemed to be open. I later learnt that this was commonly the case. Nonetheless, I paid my three leva entrance fee. On display were traditional costumes, photos from the late 19th and early 20th centuries and artefacts such as tools and jewellery, none of which were well labelled, some were not labelled at all. The shop was full of interesting items, including carved wooden bowls, jewellery, embroidered jackets, etc. The staff were very helpful and spoke good English. I bought some postcards, then wrote them in the City Gardens where groups of men were playing chess. Finding the post office was harder than I thought as exactly where you’d expect it to be according to the map, there is a Postbank. They are obviously used to dealing with deviant tourists as I was directed to the real post office almost instantly. However, once in the real building, my problems had just begun! There are many posters in Bulgarian and French, but none in English. I managed to find ‘timbre’ on a poster outside one room full of cashier points, but no further information inside. So, I retreated to one of a number of kiosks which appeared to be selling birthday cards and, using sign language, actually managed to buy stamps for my cards. I posted them into what I hope was a general post box; again nothing tells you if it is local, foreign or otherwise. Next, I made my way to the Municipal Gallery of Art, next to the Grand Hotel Sofia. This gallery doesn’t charge an entry fee, in common with all the churches, and has temporary exhibitions. The one I saw was on the theme of ‘window’. There were lots of modern paintings, mostly by Bulgarian artists. Obviously most of the paintings were looking through or at windows with scenes varying in subject and style. I thought two of the best were those depicting old wooden shutters closed, but painted in very fine detail. On my way back to Nevski I stopped at the Russian Church, which with its golden onion-shaped domes is very beautiful on the outside. Inside it is very quiet and iconic, and in contrast to Alexander Nevski, small to the point of cosiness. From the Russian church I went uphill and turned right through a colourful avenue of local stalls offering an amazingly diverse collection of items varying from Nazi memorabilia to Russian dolls. This brought me back to my starting point and also marked the end of my first day on the yellow brick road. Day two began with my now ritual coffee and croissant in the City Gardens, but on this occasion an old man decided to sit beside me and opened a little notebook in which he wrote his age, 73. He then proceeded to roll up his trouser leg and show me his very scabby leg. When I expressed no great interest in this, other than a sympathetic nod, he produced an empty pill packet, evidently expecting a financial contribution towards his refill. At this point I decided it was time to move on. At the top of the gardens I turned left and found the Archaeological Museum, which was very cool – in both senses of the word. There were quite old-fashioned displays of sculptures and artefacts dating from about the 4th century BCE up to about the 15th century CE. Everything was well labelled in both English and Bulgarian and the staff were very helpful. It cost 10 leva, but was well worth it. One of the most stunning exhibits was a vast piece of bedrock out of which a horseman had been carved. One should allow at least one-and-a-half hours to appreciate the full range of displays. The President’s Palace is just opposite the museum, where I saw the end of the changing of the guard and also a mass of media people waiting for somebody (the President?). After a rest in the shade, I walked on to the church of St George – a remarkable little red brick rotunda preserved among many modern block buildings. You can still see the murals inside, which were painted between the 10th and 14th centuries CE. On my walk back towards Alexander Nevski I saw a ‘spider lorry’ removing a Range Rover which presumably had overstayed his parking time. There seemed to be quite a large number of police, lorry drivers and traffic wardens engaged in the business of capturing motorists. There were two lorries, two police cars and half a dozen drivers and police in a group by Nevski. I went back inside the church and just sat and soaked up the atmosphere until a large lady came hobbling in, moaning and wailing in a very loud voice until a female warden tried to calm her down. Eventually she wandered out again, and so did I. Just across the road is the National Gallery for Foreign Art. The building is huge; at first I thought it must be some grand governmental edifice. I paid my 10 leva at a desk inside the large foyer and left my backpack and camera. The galleries are very high and rather dark. The ground floor displayed mainly Indian, Japanese and Chinese art. For once, everything was labelled in Bulgarian and English, but only with the most basic details, that is: name of artist, title of work, and approximate date. There was nothing at all to put the works into any kind of context. Another minor irritation was the constant squeaking of the floorboards as I walked around the galleries. I’m sure most of the artists would have been dismayed that their works were displayed in such a bleak, unsympathetic setting. There were many European works on the next two floors, even a few Picassos and some of the lesser-known Impressionists, but even these suffered from the poor surroundings. By contrast, I also visited the Icon collection under Alexander Nevski. Again, I had to leave my bag and camera at the desk, where I paid five leva. But the whole atmosphere was very different from that of the foreign art gallery. The icons are displayed in a large, light room divided into sections and alcoves with low ceilings. Labelling is more comprehensive, though still lacking in detail. The icons themselves are mostly very brightly painted, but at the same time are very similar, with a few notable exceptions. It occurred to me that most of the paintings from the Gallery for Foreign Art would have looked much better in the icon gallery and the icons might actually lend something to the austerity of the former. As I left the icon collection I was approached by a Bulgarian family who wanted to know the way to the Russian church. At first of course, I didn’t understand what they were asking until the English-speaking daughter explained. I was glad to be able to help. http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Discovering-Karlovo/62/84 Destinations A nice evening drive over the smooth road through Plovdiv ended in the town in Karlovo (144 km east of Sofia). A group of close friends invited me to spend a merry weekend with them in the birthplace of Bulgaria's greatest hero Vassil Levski (1837- 1873). Levski dedicated his life to freeing the Bulgarians from the Ottoman Empire and managed to set up a network of secret revolutionary committees throughout the country. The Ottoman police persecuted him for years and caught him in the end. He was hanged in Sofia. But Karlovo is home to other famous people; it's also the birthplace of the father of poet Hristo Botev, another Bulgarian hero. Dr. Ivan Bogorov was the publisher of the first Bulgarian newspaper and brothers Evlogi and Hristo Georgievi who had the Sofia University built. With this in mind, it's not strange that there are many museums in Karlovo. But that's not where we headed first. After travelling no matter what distance, all I really desire is a hot bath and a good meal. A friend, who knows the town like his pocket, tipped us about Hotel Almond. This barely three months old hotel is situated somewhat higher than the rest of the town. Fortunately there were signs all over, so we had no problems finding the place. I was a little suspicious when our car was trying to make its way up through dark roads filled with pebbles and skeletons of houses yet to be built. But I sighed with relief when I saw a white illuminated building that stood proudly on the foot of the mountains. A waiter came running over the lawn to guide us into the underground car park. We checked in and I can say that I was impressed. Our room, which was one of eight, was luxurious. Silk curtains, dark woods and a Jacuzzi gave it a Japanese feel. There was great eye for detail, but no clutter, very, very nice. After inspecting the room we went down to have a meal. Here I must say that the chef agreed to stay on in order to prepare our dinner. We arrived around midnight, which normally is means closing time for the kitchen. That's what I call customer service. On principle I am not a fan of hotel food, but after a hard working day and some driving I gladly made an exception. And I was pleasantly surprised. The menu had a fresh, modern and sometimes French twist to authentic Bulgarian recipes. I ordered spinach rolls with a yoghurt salad inside and as a main course duck with fresh figs and artichokes. To accompany this meal I went for a big glass of Bulgarian Mavrud (somewhat heavy, but very aromatic red wine). We were very happy indeed and around 2.30am we decided that we couldn't keep our eyes open any longer and stumbled up the stairs. Next morning, had a great breakfast and admired the mountains and the in fact very charming old houses in the neighbourhood. After admiring the House of Vassil Levski, which one has to see when you are in Karlovo. The original house didn't survive a fire during the War of Liberation, but the stairs to the cellar and the hide out are all that remained intact. Bulgarian patriots decided to restore the house. There is a big exhibition hall displaying material telling the story of Levski's life and revolutionary activities. And after a visit to the very beautiful St. Nicola Church, we decided to go to the famous Karlovski Waterfall, which is situated one km north of the town. There was a hydroelectric power station, which you had to pass in order to reach the water wonder. By the time we got there, it was already dawn. But the waterfall was lit in orange, which gave it a very nice atmosphere. It was beautiful. And so was the power station in fact, because it was so old. After this it was time for dinner. We had planned to meet the rest of our party, which consisted of a dozen people, at a restaurant called Once Upon a Time. The restaurant has a beautiful garden with all kinds of pottery and antiques. There is a pond and roses are still in bloom. A wooden staircase leads to the restaurant itself, which breathes the atmosphere of times past. Old photographs and maps tell stories of people and places. The whole interior is made of walnut wood, including the impressive sealing. The menu is funny, and while we laugh and decide what to eat, we drank the wine and rakia produce of this year. Because in the end, that's the excuse on which we decided to meet in the first place. PS, the food was wonderful. http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Bumbling-along-the-Black-Sea-Coast/62/85 Destinations The Black Sea filled us with more dreams, more visions of more fun, more hopes for future visits, than anywhere else in Bulgaria. How could one lie on the sands of Sozopol and not wish to stay forever, to purchase a bungalow and settle down to a life of idle strolling along the ancient town's streets? We spent four nights on the coast, two in Bourgas and two in Sozopol. Our excursion therefore required some driving on top of the seven long hours it took to reach the sea from the capital. This driving was instructive, because it took us past some of the most loathsome construction projects I've ever seen here. In Vlas, a town just north of Sunny Beach, for example, we saw 200-room hotels under construction, lined up like dominos or suburban tract housing. We didn't see any parking garages. Street curbs weren't being widened. The beach remained the same size it's been for years, when the new projects were only a twinkle in some greedy developer's eye. It's not an original observation, but it bears repeating: Bulgaria's seaside is heading for a train wreck unless the politicians do something fast. Bourgas we found charming, simply because it's a working city free from the hype and tourist traps we encountered everywhere else in the area. We stayed at the Hotel Bulair at 7 Bulair Street, for 70 leva a night (056 844 389). It was a comfortable spot that was close to the city's main thoroughfare to the beach, Aleko Bogoridi Boulevard, a walkway lined with shops and cafes. The food at the Bulair was passable Bulgarian fare. The trout, fittingly, was better than fish I've ordered in Sofia. In the morning the hotel served a breakfast targeted towards foreigners, including an egg and cheese sandwich for around five leva that really should have been called, if we're being picky, fried cheese and egg on toast. Unlike overdeveloped Sunny Beach, Bourgas has a park, called the Sea Gardens, which abuts the portion of its coastline not devoted to its port. Bars and clubs are interspersed throughout the park. You can walk around at night and follow the thumping beats or smell of grilled meat until you find what you're looking for. We opted for Club Elite, an open-air joint filled with young folks dancing and drinking the night away. It's a 10-minute walk into the Sea Gardens if you take a left when you reach the park at the end of Aleko Bogoridi. Here we observed something about Bulgarians that was witnessed again in Sozopol: the phenomenon where Bulgarian men don't dance, but instead watch as their women prance and boogie with each other. That cultural clash aside, I recommend Club Elite to anyone who wants to stay out past three in the morning. Nessebur, I must admit, was disappointing. Yes, it is quaint. Yes, it has many old churches. It juts out into the water, making it a perfect place to have a beer and stare out at the blue ocean. But the smell of tourism is on the place. It is a museum that caters to day trippers. The best part of our afternoon in Nessebur was jumping into the sea at a little beach on the southern tip of the town, much to the amazement of locals who thought we were insane. They thought the water was much too cold. We also haggled a bit with a woman selling table cloths and other knitted wares. We purchased beautiful big linens for around 70 leva a piece, certainly cheaper than what we would have paid for the same item at one of the stands near Alexander Nevski in Sofia. Sozopol is a whole other story. It is a living town, and we spent much of our time there in the so-called New Town, or Harmanite district, where people might depend on tourism but still rear children and live their lives like normal people. We stayed in the Hotel Briz for 40 leva a night for a double (ask for Cleo at 0886 173 400). It's a brand new place with a view of Sozopol's South Beach, about a 15-minute walk from the Old Town. In July and August, Cleo said, the rates shoot up to 45 euro a night. After spending our day swimming in the briskly cold water, which, sad to say, contained the occasional floating plastic bag, we headed out in search of nightlife. The Tequila Bar is a must. It's a on a barge in the marina, off Kraybrezhna Street, across from the navy base. Patrons were divided down the middle between Bulgarians and out-of-towners, specifically a group attending a NATO-sponsored convention on nanotechnology. We tried desperately to discover why an organisation devoted to tanks and jets is interested in microscopic machines, but the conventioneers, despite their PhDs, failed to convince us. We also went to the Paradise Bar, a chalga club in the New Town. You'll just have to ask where it is. We arrived there in a blur. In the bar we again saw the phenomenon of men standing against the wall as the women - here scantily clad - gyrated before them. A young lady actually shook her finger at one of us, as if he had suggested something uncouth, when he held out his hand and beckoned her to dance. Friends drove us to the coast in a minibus, but we made our own way back. You can buy 19 leva tickets for an express bus from Sozopol to Sofia at a booth across from the military club in Sozopol's main square in the New Town, next to the Black Sea Hotel (but it might be hard to tell where the hotel is because its sign is falling down). The booth is in an area with a number of internet cafes, whose signs are obviously new. Be warned, however, that the booth closes between one and three o'clock. It was hard to leave Sozopol. On the morning before I left, I walked along the street leading into the Old Town, the shadows and sunlight falling through the trees on the pavement. I saw a guy I'd met in The Tequila Bar. He was sitting in a park with friends, smiling and conversing with his hands. It seemed like the whole town was the only place in the world. A small, easy place. http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Touring-ancient-Perperikon/62/86 Destinations The organised trip to the ancient complex of Perperikon started on a very early Saturday morning in front of the Vassil Levski National Stadium. Little did we know that it would turn into a wild run to Kurdzhali, across Kurdzhali and out of Kurdzhali, the town near Perperikon. The tour was organised by a tourist agency in Sofia and I must grant them that they have done a fine job as the bus was comfortable, in spite of the fact that all the way to Plovdiv the heating did not work and we froze to death and there was some misunderstanding regarding the seat of my companion. On our four-hour ride to Perperikon the guide did a nice job of telling us about the places through which we passed. Frankly, I learned things I did not know before; even though I am quite familiar with the history and geography of Bulgaria. Perperikon itself is a steep hill 15 km north-east of the town of Kurdzhali in the Eastern Rhodope Mountains and the trek to its top could be quite challenging for older people. The steep last part of the official route through the gate of the fortress is paved with huge eroded flagstones, which on the way up have to be climbed and on the way down are very slippery. One has to be really cautious as I found out the hard way by landing on my bottom. Later we found out that there was another route winding through the forest growing on the sides of the hill, which, even though less spectacular and somewhat longer, is easier. As it can be expected for a fine October weekend, Perperikon has drawn at least five buses of tourists from near and far as well as many cars, some with Sofia plates. Once we gathered around the local guide who awaited us near the gate to the ancient temple we had to strain our ears to hear her as many inconsiderate people were screaming their heads off all around us. After the lecture we were left on our own to walk about the huge complex and feel a bit like explorers ourselves. After two hours in the almost summer heat we got down only to find out that two women from the group got lost somewhere and we had to wait for them. This caused some serious grumbling on the part of the group, which apparently was not content with what they have already seen on Perperikon and was very eager to visit the Kurdzhali regional historic museum, where allegedly there were astonishing things. My companion and I, who only wanted to see Perperikon to begin with, did not quite understand the big fuss and planned a trip to a restaurant and a bathroom instead. There is neither in the immediate vicinity of Perperikon, except for an enterprising local woman who was selling beer, soft drinks and dodgy kebapcheta and sausages from the trunk of her car. Little did we know that our planned and much anticipated visit to a restaurant would be postponed indefinitely as our guide said that apart from the museum, we must also visit the religious centre of Father Boyan Saruev and a recently restored church in Kurdzhali. The worst news was that the museum would be the last point in our trip. At first, my companion and I received the news quite calmly but, as time went by and the prospect of having lunch, even at this late stage, was not getting closer, we were getting mutinous and did not care neither about the religious centre, nor about the church, whose history, I am sure is very interesting but on a full belly. The situation deteriorated seriously when it turned out that the fabled museum closes at five pm and we might not be able to get there in time. The news caused discontent on the part of the majority of old women who really wanted to see it. "We have paid for this and we want to see it," they were saying. The prospect of missing the museum worried us more than anyone else because we were afraid that we might not be able to eat anything before we get back to Sofia, which meant miserable starvation until at least 10 pm. On top of that, the guide of the church who was supposed to expect us thought that we were going to arrive on the following day and was almost literally dragged out of her home by our guide to show us around. And the clock was ticking on ... While waiting in the churchyard the animosity of the group was already apparent and our poor guide was ready to burst in tears. Everybody was looking at their watches and were discussing what should have been done and how fast the driver must go in order to get us to the museum on time. But, to cut the story short - we managed to eat, printsessi (toast) at a coffee shop. It was all they had to offer. After having our somewhat rushed meal, we went back to the bus where it turned out that the regional historical museum is interesting but not that much and not seeing it was not a great loss. Our way back to Sofia was a hectic rushing to and fro with a fast ride without stopping. Apparently everybody was getting hungry and probably realised that when covering such a big distance in one day, the itinerary should be more relaxed. After all it was meant to be a relaxing excursion, not a mad rush. FROM THE PAST According to the archaeologists Perperikon (the name allegedly comes from the Byzantine golden coin, perpera) has been first worshiped as a sacred place in the Neolithic age, six millennia BCE and was first populated in the Eneolithic age four millennia BCE. In the Bronze age, 18-12 century BCE, Perperikon was at its first heyday and by the end of the age it has become a major place of worship. In later ages, it was inhabited by the Thracian tribe of the Bessians and recently the archaeological expedition of Nikolai Ovcharov has found serious proof that at Perpeikon was the legendary temple of Dionysus. It has been described by many ancient historians as a place of prophesies almost as famous as the Delphic Oracle. According to legends in this temple Alexander the Great found out that he would conquer the world and Octavian August's father found out that his son would become the first emperor of Rome. The famous altar at which the prophesies were made by pouring wine in a blazing fire and divining on the smoke can still be seen as a large rusty brown circle in the stone. Legends have it that if one stands in the circle and makes a wish, it would come true. Perperikon was studied by archaeologists in the late 1960s but then were known only the much older parts when the complex was a medieval regional centre and Episcopal seat. From that period is dated the octagonal tower whose remains loom over the hill and the valley at its bottom. Over the centuries the complex has had considerable influence over the area and has been either in Bulgarian or Byzantine hands mainly because of the gold and silver mines in its vicinity. In the 16th century the Bulgarian tsar Ivan Alexander who won a battle against the Byzantine army and made Perperikon a regional centre by appointing a governor. During the Ottoman conquest of the end of that century Perperikon has been conquered, destroyed and doomed to oblivion. http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Adventures-in-Chiprovtsi/62/87 Destinations Generally tales of adventure are about pirates, one-legged scalliwags, and treasure maps. However, a tale of a holiday in Chiprovtsi (near Montana) will rather resemble Robert Stevenson's Treasure Island, with the exception that it is all true. Holidaymakers and tourists will become part of the story of a new tourism project centred on adventure tours, on the quest of buried treasure in Bulgaria. The area near the town of Chiprovtsi will be the focus of the treasure hunt. Hopes are that the project will improve visitors numbers drastically. Last summer, no more than 2500 foreigners, mainly from European countries, visited the area . To develop the attractions, and boost bed-capacity in Chiprovtsi, the municipality has applied for EU Phare pre-accesion funding for the 250 000 euro project. Part of the money will be used to develop adventure, mine and historical tourism, in line with the theme "It Is High Time You Found Chiprovtsi's Treasures". According to the plan, tourists will be taken to the former coal mines in the Rupite Mountain to go through mines that were dug almost six centuries ago. Saxon miners inhabited the town and in Roman times was a major mining centre with rich sources of silver, gold, lead and iron ore. The natural abundance of Chiprov-tsi made it into one of the most significant ore and gold centres in the 16th-17th century CE. In those years, the works of the goldsmiths from Chiprovtsi became popular not only throughout the Ottoman Empire, but also in Central and Western Europe and Italy. According to Ivan Markov, mayor of Chiprovtsi, there are mine galleries as deep as 100-300 metres, which were left from the times of the Saxon miners in 13 and 14 century. A mine museum is to be set up, displaying the technology and instruments for extracting gold. Chiprovtsi became a very significant cultural and educational centre of the Bulgarian Roman Catholics. Excavations have uncovered a Catholic monastery dating back to the 15th-17th centuries, which was the seat of Sofia's Catholic eparchy at that time. Today, with a population of 3000 people, Chiprovtsi has a wealthy cultural heritage and beautiful landscape. Its goldsmithery school, from the Bulgarian National Revival period, the foundations of the original and unique carpeting industry and the beauty of the landscape attract foreign and Bulgarian tourists. The legends of buried treasures left by Zhelyu Voivoda, Philip Totyu and other guerillas are often source for-killing-the-time conversations at gatherings of the elderly. People believe that the Balkan Range near Chiprovtsi conceals many gold treasures in its caves. Located on the northern slopes of Chiprovtsi Mountain of the Western Balkan Range, 35 km west of Montana, the town of Chiprovtsi has a lot to offer. Once called The Flower of Bulgaria, Chiprovtsi has never lost its natural beauty and freedom-loving population. A tour in the History Museum of the town includes references to Chiprovtsi Uprising, which broke out in 1688 and was organised by Catholic notables rebelling against Ottoman domination. The Chiprovtsi monastery of Saint Ivan of Rila, in the valley of the Chiprovska Ogosta river and about five km from Chiprovtsi, served as a main hiding place during the Chiprovtsi Uprising. The monastery originates from 10th century and is one of the 30 monasteries in the country to strengthen the position of Christianity and serve as a cultural and educational centre. The monastery is an attractive tourism destination with the average 20-degrees Celsius temperature in summer and the tombs of the leading guerillas in the Chiprovtsi Uprising. Proudly some local people talk of the town's name originating from the Latin word cuprum (copper) for the natural resource availability while others argue that the name originates from the Kiprovets flower (raving and spraying beauty). The town has developed all types of tourists and the local Tourism Centre has information on them all. Ecological mountaineering, village, cultural or hunting, the place offers it all. All who have visited Chiprovtsi will agree that a jewel among all the recreation-learning trips are the lessons in hand weaving carpets and dying them with herbs, which are available nowhere else in Bulgaria. At the museum you will be told about the garibald- one of the carpets with four colours yellow, white, green and blue. The world-renowned carpets of Chiprovtsi, woven on vertical looms, outdo Turkish, Egyptian, Indian and Chinese carpets. They have a rim and a central design composition with very typical floral ornaments in burgundy, red, dark blue, rarely green, yellow and brown. The craft of weaving carpets in Chiprovtsi and other locations in Bulgaria has been part of its traditions for 400 years and the skills have been passed on from generation to generation, and still presents a source of interest to manufacturers. The catalogue of the Kanatitsa Museum in Chiprovtsi illustrates 27 traditional designs. What unites them, though, are the ornaments of the carpets with geometric and triangular shapes. The carpets also feature flowers, plants, birds and animals coloured in various nuances. Carpets from Chiprovtsi are reversible and can be used on both sides and some are even aged 30 years and even more. The whole range of colours is extracted from plant paints and are prepared by the masters from Chiprovtsi and thus give a sense of coziness in every house. People of Chiprovtsi have rich authentic folklore. On September 6 all of the local people will pay a visit to their common patron Saint Rangel to make an offering of food, coloured bread and lamb meat. Travelling to Chiprovtsi without a preliminary booking is not a source of worry as tourists stay at the small family hotels, which in the last two years doubled. If you are lucky enough you can book at the Kipro-century old family hotel for as much as 12 leva a night. Pictures of tourists clad in authentic Bulgarian national costumes, self-woven rugs, self-made gold jewelry and many memories of milking goats and drinking fresh squeezed raspberry juice are some of the experiences and souvernires tourists take back with them. However, the greatest temptations are the various delicious meals from Chiprovtsi cuisine. Fresh goat's milk, pies, as well as jam and fresh squeezed juice from wild strawberries and blueberries, stuffed peppers with beans, sarmi (stuffed grapevine leaves), sheep cheese and home made blueberry jam are all included in the family hotels' menus. It is also renowned for buried treasure and the healing property of the air in the town. http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Teres,-the-masked-king/62/88 Destinations A team of Bulgarian archaeologists, led by Professor Georgi Kitov, discovered a 2400-year old golden mask in the tomb of an ancient Thracian king on August 19. The mask bears the image of a human face and is made of 500 grams of solid gold, Kitov said. The discovery was made near the town of Shipka, in the heart of the Stara Planina Mountain. Dozens of Thracian mounds are spread throughout this region, which archeologists have called "the Bulgarian valley of the kings", a reference to the Valley of the Kings near Luxor, which is home to the tombs of Egyptian Pharaohs. "The unique mask looks even better than the famous image of King Agamemnon, the Greek anti-hero described by Homer in the Iliad," Kitov was quoted as saying by Bulgarian-language media. "This is the first Thracian mask of solid gold ever found," he said. Previously, archeologists had only found masks covered with golden foil. Initially, Kitov suggested that the mask could belong to King Seuthes III, the Thracian king who in the fifth century BCE ruled the territory that now is in today's Bulgaria. Later however, he and his team changed their view, and said the mask is most probably of King Teres I, father of the famous Thracian ruler Sitalkes, who expanded the Thracian kingdom into a huge empire, uniting for the first time all Thrace south of the river Danube. The tomb was covered with six stone slabs, each weighing at least two tons. The king's remains have not yet been found, but excavations at the tomb will continue. In addition to the golden mask, archeologists discovered a golden ring with the image of a rower, as well as many bronze and silver vessels. The current find is in the area of the so-called Helvetia Tomb, discovered in 1996, which also dates back to the 4th century BCE. It is also near the town of Shipka. The Shipka Tombs are seven in total, all in the Valley of the Thracian Kings. Also close is the Kazanluk Tomb, which is famous for its beautiful wall paintings of the early third century BCE, one of the most unique masterpieces of the Early Hellenistic pictorial art. This tomb was built during the reign of king Seuthes III, either for him personally or for close relatives among the nobility. Thirty-five Thracian tombs have so far been discovered in Bulgaria and all of them have pre-classical vaults (false vaults) made during the period fifth to the third centuries BCE. The plans of this type of tomb were varied. Some of them, apart from the burial chamber, contain a corridor and other rooms. Fifteen of the tombs found in Bulgaria have round burial chambers. The rest have square burial chambers. The round chambers were roofed with a false beehive dome, while the square ones had a flat roof or a false vault. The tombs were made of ashlars with dry joints, or of bricks and mortar. http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Where-magic-lives/62/89 Destinations On the way to Trigrad, my friends kept telling me what a magical place it is. Apart from its beauty, whispers of ages past echo in the Rhodope Mountains, they claimed. Several times we stopped in order to show me the sights. In their enthusiasm they may not have realised that it was pitch dark, except for some lunar light. It smelled fresh and moist, but this is the only statement I can make in all honesty. But in order not to step on some thirty happy toes, I kept my mouth shut. After a five-hour trip (we made loads of stops for coffee though) we finally arrived in Trigrad. Wet dog noses and a sizzling fire greeted us. Chacho and Maria, who owned the dogs and the fireplace, placed us at their table. There, seated, drinking home made rakia and talking, was the rest of our 'excursion' group, all friends, most of them photographers and one, a chef. Although I had never met our hosts, they treated me as if I was a long lost friend. I immediately felt at home. After a night of philosophy, drinks and a great chocolate cake, it was time to go to bed. Our hosts arranged for accommodation, since their house is not used for lodging. They offered their two spare rooms to two of our party. A friend and me were staying at the Fishing House. And the last twosome had again a different place to stay. It was cold (take woollen clothes into the mountains, no matter whether it's summer), about five degrees. I, as the typical city girl, hadn't anticipated this. It took three enormous blankets and a heater on full blast to keep me warm. But the next morning I woke up in euphoria, sounds of nature were beckoning and the fresh air made me hungry. A rumbling stomach made me shower in double speed. The 'hotel' we were staying, was ok, if a cleaning lady could have done her round before our arrival it would be perfect (for a simple kind of place). This said, most friends are calling me a hygiene freak. In any case I was armed with bath slippers, my toilet set and an extra towel, so I was fine. It's great to have a chef as a friend. Especially when he really loves his profession. He had BAKED bread that morning, and went to the local Mandra, to get fresh cheese. It was so pure, it was exquisite. Over a cup of coffee we made a plan to go to the Devil's Throat. This cave is supposed to be a magical place. The legend goes this is the place where Orpheus went down into the kingdom of spectres, in search of his love, Euridica. This cave holds the biggest cascade of waterfalls on the Balkan Peninsula, with a total height of 60 metres. The saying goes that whatever goes into the actual throat of the cave, where water runs, never comes out. There have been scientific tests with all kinds of objects. The Devil's Throat even took the lives of two young lovers from Varna. In memory of them their pictures are engraved into the rocks. Of course I was very excited to go in myself. After a speech of the history of the cave, the guide led a group of us in. I was following a grandmother and her husband. Strangely enough the woman was wearing slippers and an apron. She looked like her husband pulled her away from the stove while she was preparing lunch. Anyway, we made our way deeper and deeper into the cave; we went down stairs that never seemed to end. And then we found ourselves in this big rock chamber. The sound of the water hissing in the Devil's Throat was overwhelming. Next to it was a religious shrine, thousands of coins lay there, shimmering in the dimly lit cave. After a heavy climb up, we found ourselves in the open air again, speechless from the experience. Another cave worth visiting is the Eneolithic dwelling, Haramiiska. Unfortunately I have a knee problem, which made me unable to visit this cave. It involves some serious rock climbing for about 20 metres. And with serious I mean, ropes, gloves helmets, hammers and other mountaineering equipment. So, no way. The descent is about 43 metres. All in all it takes five hours to do the tour. My friends came back gasping, from exhaustion and enthusiasm. After another cosy night with great food and the warmth of the people and the fireplace, I woke up with anticipation. Again. Today we were going to go horse riding. This was my type of activity (the horse does the walking). Maria and Chacho own stables and offer (day) trips through the mountains on horseback. We were going for a lunch picnic on the green field surrounded by the monstrous mountains. I hadn't ridden in years. But Maria guided the horse calmly through rocks and streams. The animal however had another idea about spending his Sunday and any chance he got, he tried to turn around and head home. Maria explained to me that mainly she and her husband rode the horse - it was still very young and yet had to learn how to deal with the less experienced riders. In any case, Maria didn't give him the opportunity to hit and run, so I was seated high, feeling great! I decided to come back another time and really make a ride from different mountain villages on horseback. Apparently there are still many interesting archaeological, historical and ethnographic places and untouched nature. And here I leave you with the words; must see and experience! And dress warm! http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Passion-and-Muscat/62/90 Destinations Like everything else, it seems, the world of wine becomes ever more complex, ever more competitive and ever more confusing. The covers of the glossy international monthly wine magazines scream at us, like "200 Chardonnays Tasted," or "500 Tuscans to Try," even "The 100 Best Buys," and so forth. Who can make sense of all this, except someone themselves in the wine trade? Although I have written about wine and food for many years, I am still not at ease at formal wine tasting functions. For the consumer, and I regard myself as one rather than a reviewer, wine is for food, wine is for fun, wine is for enjoyment. But for the people who make it, it is a very serious business. The other evening, my wife and I sat in a small, 100 000 bottle capacity, winery with a 30-year old French educated winemaker. After four years of trying, he had finally persuaded his father and uncle, who for many years had made unremarkable wines in the same traditional way as their parents and grandparents, to concentrate on administration and finance and leave the winemaking to him. The wines we were tasting; two whites, a rose and three reds, were from his first 'solo' vintage, of 2003. They were a considerable improvement on the previous year's 'family' effort. I could summarise the reason in one word: "passion". Nicholas's passion is not just acquired-in-France along with a great deal of oenology, it comes from within. His desire is to know every vine in every vineyard from which he takes grapes, to understand the differences in soils and micro-climates, to be there when the grapes are ready and to vinify with optimum techniques. He lives and breathes wine, tasting the products of his competitors and those from other countries. He listens to every word we utter as we taste. We worked our way through a Chardonnay and a white blend, a bright flowery Grenache rose, a variety of Cabernet Sauvignon made from a blend of local grapes, and lastly a Cabernet Sauvignon/ Cabernet Franc blend, admiring the young man's dedication and the strides he had made. Finally, Nicholas brought small liqueur glasses and a slim 50cl bottle. "An experiment", he said, "a fortified sweet Muscat". At 18 per cent alcohol, it had to have added spirit, in the manner of a Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise. It was remarkably smooth and delicious, a perfect match for the biscuit spread with Roquefort that he had brought out for the tasting. We came away remembering all the wines we had tasted, but with a special fondness for the Muscat. What a marvellous grape it is. It was in our minds the following evening when with some fresh-herbed grilled fish and salad, we opened a bottle of dry 2002 Muscat from Targoviste, and admired its light gold colour, mellowness coupled with acidity and orchard fruit taste. I often cook with medium or sweet Muscat, especially if the wine is balanced with, say, lemon juice. For example, you might try this very simple, speedy and healthy chicken recipe for four people: Sizzled Muscat Chicken 2 pieces of chicken fillet, sliced into thin chunks not more than four cm long. 1 medium onion, peeled and thinly sliced 2 cloves of garlic peeled and finely chopped 1 sweet red pepper, de-seeded and thinly sliced 1 good handful of fresh button mushrooms, sliced thinly A sprinkling of finely chopped fresh herbs of choice (I use a little thyme, parsley and a hint of rosemary) 1 glass of sweet Muscat wine Juice of one good lemon Salt and pepper 2 tbsp of a light oil (I prefer sun-flower) Method Put all the ingredients in a bowl, mix well, cover and leave for an hour. Heat a frying pan until it is smoking hot. Do not put in any oil. Tip in the chicken mixture, and sizzle it for about a minute, then turn all the ingredients around. Continue to do this until the mixture is cooked through, with plenty of crisp golden edges. Serve with a pasta of your choice, some noodles tossed in a little butter or oil is my choice, a green salad, some fresh crusty bread and a few glasses of dry Muscat. A simple meal, at which one can return to thoughts of all those thousands upon thousands of wines tasted every year by the great and the good of the wine magazines and reflect upon the fact that, most probably, every wine submitted was made with passion. That's a lot of passion. http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/The-Bansko-alternative/62/91 Destinations So you’ve been to Bansko in the winter. You’ve tried to walk its crowded streets and tried to find a parking space. You’ve been skiing in the day and drinking in the mehani (taverns) at night - if you found a table - and you probably think there is nothing much to do in Bansko in the summer and it is nothing but a sleepy town. Well, you are wrong. In the summer Bansko is very peaceful and quiet indeed. Unlike the ski season, when it gets very crowded and is booked for months in advance, in the summer the town is empty except for the locals who are always willing to rent rooms in their homes. All mehani are at your disposal and chances are you may be the only patron. In other words, it is the perfect vacation spot even for a weekend escape from summer in the city. Apart from the more traditional entertainments and sleeping late and sitting in the cool mehani, there are quite a few things to do to avoid getting bored during a longer vacation. The proximity of the Pirin Mountain and its easy accessibility by car makes it perfect for a picnic or a hike. Residents have explored the suitable picnic sites and have constructed hearths covered by thick stone slabs on which you may roast anything that takes your fancy. Usually the hearths are located at meadows or clearings near cold pure mountain streams or springs under the thick shadows of beeches and oaks. Even though the water is not purified artificially, it is of the purest and coldest kind and is perfect for drinking or using to cool your drinks. These barbeque sites are favourite places for the locals who load their cars with food and home made rakia and spend a day in the woods. One of the “specialities” they prepare on the stone slabs, apart from the almost mandatory pork chops, is green peppers stuffed with white cheese and bacon and roasted on the slab, which is greased with bacon in advance. If you do not fancy heavy meals in the woods, you could take a hike in the woods and feast on the abundant berries, which ripen in late July and August - although, beware of the nettle in which the most delicious berries conceal themselves. Another thing to do while in Bansko is to climb the highest peak of the Pirin Mountain, Vihren (2914 m). From Bansko you drive to the Vihren hut, which is at the foot of the peak, leave your car there and climb the peak. Bear in mind, however, that it is not one of the easiest hikes, and quite often the weather changes suddenly. The peak is known among avid hikers as the “peak of storms” as is evident from its name, which means “of the gale”. Sometimes even in the summer, a light rain can turn into sleet. If, when you arrive at the Vihren hut you decide you are not up to climbing peaks, you can visit the nearby lake, Okoto (The Eye). It is a 40-minute to one-hour hike from the hut and is easily accessible. Like the famous Rila Lakes, Okoto is of glacial origin and its water is very deep and extremely cold. The view of the jagged peaks surrounding the lake and the nearby alpine meadows is truly amazing. If you are lucky, you will have a chance to pat the small mountain horses grazing in the meadow. On your way down from the Vihren hut, you can take a small detour to visit the Baikusheva white fir. It is known as the oldest or the tallest tree in Bulgaria - or both. Either way, it is a very impressive sight because its wide deeply wrinkled trunk is wider than the embrace of six men with arms wide spread. Back in Bansko, you can visit the nearby micro dam, to enjoy the sun setting behind the forest and the high peaks reflecting in the still water. It is a half-hour pleasant walk from the northwestern edge of the town, but it is essential that you ask the locals for directions. If you long for a soaking in the water, you could visit the nearby village Banya, which has an open-air swimming pool with hot mineral water or the pool in Dobrinishte, also with mineral water. If you are a fan of train rides, you could catch the narrow gauge train from Bansko to Dobrinishte. If you think this ride was short, board the train for a fun ride to the village of Avramovo in the Rhodope Mountains, the highest train-stop in Bulgaria. The ride takes about two hours and is one of the most picturesque in the country. If you are an animal lover, you could visit the reserve for dancing bears in the town of Belitsa, sponsored by Austria’s Vier Pfoten Foundation and the Brigitte Bardot Foundation. Belitsa is a 40-minute drive from Bansko and the reserve is a further 16 km away. The last few kilometres are on a winding steep dirt road, which tends to turn into a muddy slide after serious rain. Currently the park hosts 13 dancing bears, which have been bought from their owners and moved into the park, which is designed to offer a near to-natural habitat for the bears. The near future plans of the two foundations include to buy the remaining 12 bears from their owners and to put an end to the barbaric tradition of dragging wild animals in the city streets to make them dance for money. http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/The-other-summer/62/92 Destinations In the months of July and August, Bulgaria’s archeological sites and cultural festivals are among alternatives to baking yourself on the beach. Or perhaps you have no problem with hot weather, and would like to opt for somewhere likely to be less crowded than the sizzling sands of the Black Sea coast. Sandanski, in the south-west of the country, is just such a place. Regular watchers of television weather forecasts will have noticed that the predicted maximums of often higher in the region than anywhere else. At venues like Sandanski’s Intercontinental Hotel, you can plunge into the mineral water for which the region is justly renowned. Sandanski, on the Banska Bistritsa River, which runs along the south-western slopes of the Pirin Mountains, has a history spanning more than 1000 years, having been through a series of occupations - and name changes - during the eras of the Thracians, the Romans, and the Slavs. Known popularly as the “den of ancient healers” the Sandanski area is a favourite spot for Bulgarians during April, when the change of seasons brings on allergies and other ailments for which the waters are regarded as having healing properties. It is similarly popular among people from the region’s close neighbours, Greece and Macedonia. Later in spring, Sandanski traditionally attracts people from Scandinavia. They visit to take the waters, whose temperatures vary between 33 and 83 degrees Celsius, believing that the balneological properties serve as good treatment for respiratory, kidney, gynaecological, dermatological and nerve problems. Other attractions of the south include expeditions in the Pirin Mountains. The Tourist Club Edelweiss leads groups of tourists in exploring the mountains, particularly the Roupite and Rozhen areas, and the town of Melnik, the latter also well-known for its wines. (Tel 0746 23198 or mobile phone 048 780 099). There are stopovers for mountain explorers at chalets are Begovitsa, Sinanitsa, Kamenitza, Pirin, Yane Sandanski, and at the Rozhen Monastery. After the peak summer months, Sandanski is home to the Pirin folk festival, held in September, a drawcard for holidaymakers, and lovers of arts and culture alike. In the weeks after this, the Balkan festival of films and television programmes for children and young people is held in the town, while in October the whole town gathers in an annual event to celebrate the country’s historical liberation from Ottoman rule. From Sandanski, it is a short trip to Bansko, for the annual jazz festival which is held in August. The week-long festival (www.banskojazz.com) attracts musicians and jazz fans from throughout Bulgaria and elsewhere in Europe. The centre of the town is transformed into a stage, and jam sessions serve as a platform for exchanging trends and styles of jazz. In terms of archeological and cultural tourism, an increasingly popular site to visit is the unique medieval monastery 22km north of Kurdjali in southern Bulgaria. The site was home to the ancient town of Hyperperakion, and has gained latter-day fame for the discovery of its temple to Dionysus. This year, a fourth annual Perperikon festival was held, featuring presentations on books by Bulgarian and Greek writers, and by artists, poets and musicians from the Black Sea town of Bourgas, as well as a conference on theatre and globalisation. Events held during each year’s festival vary in terms of country of origin and type. During this year’s festival, there were four Bulgarian and two foreign performances. “The bad-tempered lady” produced by Dimotiko Theatre (Greece) and “A Portrait of the planet” by Friedrich Durenmatt were, by all accounts, warmly received. Now quiet and awaiting next year’s festival, the remains of the basilica are a fascinating place to visit. The remains of the ancient palace are in the centre of the acropolis, situated at the top of Perperikon, clearly chosen in ancient times because the hilltop afforded a natural base for fortification, and now, for tourists, providing a good view of the surrounding countryside. http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Colleges-and-Schools/24/110 Education and Childcare   Colleges and Schools The American College of Sofia Sanders Hall Floyd Black Lane, Mladost 2, 1799 Sofia  Tel:+359 2 974 4140 acs@acs.bg www.acs.bg The Anglo-American School, Sofia 16 Kozyak Str, 1407 Sofia Tel: +359 2 974 4575  aasictcoord@infotel.bg  http://sofia.ecis.org/ Vasil Zlatarski Private School 49 Kliment Ohridski Blvd, Durvenitsa,1756 Sofia Tel +359 2 974 36 66  zlatarski@internet-bg.net  http://www.zlatarskischool.org/ Rovel Ivanyane 66 Sv Sv Kiril and Metodii Str, Bankya, 1393 Sofia Tel+359 2  997 74 54  office@rovel.bg  http://www.rovel.bg/ First Private English Language School William Shakespeare 13 Stara Planina Str, Sofia Tel+359 2 983 15 20  fpels@speedbg.net  www.fpels.ws Drita 13 Kamenitsa Str, Simeonovo, Sofia  Tel: +359 2 961 32 42  info@dritaschool.com  www.dritaschool.com Doris Tenedi 58 Skobelev Blvd, 1606-Sofia Tel: +359 2 952 39 00  doristenedi@doristenedi.com  www.doristenedi.com Primary school Dr Peter Beron 67 Cherni Vruh Blvd, Lozenetz,1000 Sofia Tel: +359 2 868 73 40  pberon@dir.bg  www.pberon.com Private german school Erich Kestner Wohnviertel Lyulin 6, 1336 Sofia  Tel: +359 2 824 48 59  kestnerschool_bg@yahoo.com  www.kestnerschool.com Private high school Druzhba 65 Varna Str, Bankya, Sofia Tel: +359 2  997 73 88  info@drujbacollege.com  http://www.drujbacollege.com/ PPS Riorih 10A Zahari Zograf Str,Dragalevtsi, Sofia Tel: + 359 2 967 52 04  roerich_school@abv.bg  www.rschool.hit.bg Markoff College 12 Grivitza Str, 1202 Sofia Tel: +359 2 317 732  markoffcollege@yahoo.com  http://www.markoffcollege.com European College of Economics and Management 18 Zadruga Str, 4004 Plovdiv  Tel: +359 32/ 67 23 62  office@ecem.org  www.ecem.org American University in Bulgaria 1 Georgi Izmirliev Sq,2700,  Blagoevgrad Tel: +359 73/ 888 199  admissions@aubg.bg  http://www.aubg.bg/ American English Academy 10 Tsvetan Lazarov Blvd, Sofia Tel: +359 2 978 01 36  aeastaff@geobiz.net   http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Hospitals/23/111 Healthcare Treatment is possible both in state-owned hospitals and private clinics. Fees in private establishment vary, so in case you have the time for it and the situation is not urgent research in advance.     Name Location Telephone Notes Blagoevgrad city hospital Blagoevgrad, 60 Slavyanska Str 073/ 841 08 Hospital for active treatment Bourgas city hospital Bourgas, 73 Stefan Stambolov Blvd 056/ 810 547 Hospital for active treatment Dobrich city hospital Dobrich, 24 Panaiot Hitov Str Hospital for active treatment Tota Venkova hospital Gabrovo, 1 Dr Iliev Str 06/ 625 442 Hospital for active treatment Haskovo city hospital Haskovo, 49 Suedinenie Blvd 038/ 661 671 Hospital for active treatment Doctor Atanas Dafovski hospital Kurdjali, 53 Belomorski Blvd 0361/ 612 17 Hospital for active treatment Nikola Vassilev hospital Kyustendil, 17 Yanuari Sq 078/ 502 41 Hospital for active treatment Doctor Paraskev Stoyanov hospital Lovech, 27 Dr Saiko Syev Str 068/ 234 11 Hospital for active treatment Doctor St Iliev hospital Montana, 2 Sirma Voivoda Str 096/ 220 50 Hospital for active treatment Pazardzhik city hospital Pazardzhik, 15 Bolnichna Str 034/ 445 348 Hospital for active treatment Rahila Angelova hospital Pernik, 2 Breznik Str 076/ 226 21 Hospital for active treatment Pleven city hospital Pleven, 8 G Kochev Str 064/ 232 75 Hospital for active treatment St George hospital Plovdiv, 15a Vassil Aprilov Blvd 032/ 602 200 Hospital for active treatment Plovdiv city hospital Plovdiv, 234 Bulgaria Blvd 032/ 959 221 Hospital for active treatment St Ivan Rilski hospital Razgrad, 2 Kosta Petrov Str 084/ 245 54 Hospital for active treatment Shoumen city hospital Shoumen, 63 Vassil Aprilov Str 054/ 800 733 Hospital for active treatment Silistra city hospital Silistra, 80 P Moutafchiev Str 086/ 221 42 Hospital for active treatment Doctor Ivan Seliminski hospital Sliven, 1 Hristo Botev Str 044/ 662 695 Hospital for active treatment Aleksandrovska hospital Sofia, 1 Georgi Sofiiski Str 02/ 952 04 27 Hospital for active treatment Specialised child treatment hospital Sofia, 11 Akad Ivan Geshov Blvd 02/ 57 30 89 Child healthcare St Ivan Rilski hospital Sofia, 15 Akad Ivan Geshov Blvd 02/ 595 106 Hospital for active treatment St Sofia Sofia, 17 Akad Ivan Geshov Blvd 02/ 952 13 05 Pulmonary diseases treatment Maichin Dom maternity ward Sofia, 2 Zdrave Str 02/ 952 03 12 Maternity ward Pirogov emergency institute Sofia, 21 Totleven Blvd 02/ 953 28 18 Emergency medical care St Ekaterina hospital Sofia, 52 P Slaveikov Blvd 02/ 951 58 18 Hospital for active treatment Akad Ivan Penchev hospital Sofia, 6-8 Dame Grouev Str 02/ 980 81 48 Endocrinology and nephrology Tsaritsa Yoanna hospital Sofia, 8 Byalo More Str 02/ 943 23 16 Hospital for active treatment St Anna hospital Sofia, Mladost district, 1 Evgeni Pavlovski Str 02/ 723 876, 741 156 Hospital for active treatment Orthopedics specialised hospital Sofia, Ovcha Koupel district 02/ 553 002 Orthopedics St Naum hospital Sofia, Tsarigradsko Shosse 02/ 703 298 Neurology and psychiatric treatment Stara Zagora city hospital Strara Zagora, 11 Atanas Iliev Str 042/ 600 710 Hospital for active treatment St Marina Hospital Varna, 1 Hristo Smirnenski Str 052/ 302 875 Hospital for active treatment St Anna hospital Varna, 100 Tsar Osvoboditel Str 052 /229 498 Hospital for active treatment Doctor St Cherkezov hospital Veliko Turnovo, 1 Nish Str 062/ 409 16 Hospital for active treatment St Petka hospital Vidin, 119 Tsar Simeon Veliki Str 094/ 263 77 Hospital for active treatment Hristo Botev hospital Vratsa, 66 Vtori Yuni Str 02/ 926 51 10 Hospital for active treatment Private clinics Location Telephone Notes St Sofia Bourgas, 13 Vuzrazhdane Str 056/ 845 083 Examination, diagnostics, lab testing Oxycom Bourgas, Izgrev district, building 28a 056/ 860 210 Consultancy, surgical intervention Mediana medical centre Pavlikeni, 15 Tsar Ivan Asen Vtori Str 0610/ 555 50 Medical aid and consultancy St Vrach medical centre Plovdiv, 81 Hristo Botev Str 032/ 600 98 59 Lab, diagnostics and physiotherapy Aktamedika Sevlievo, 60 Nikola Petkov Str 0675/ 345 02 Lab, diagnostics, rehabilitation, surgery and cosmetic surgical procedures St Dimitar medical centre Sofia, 1 Yakov Kraikov Str 02/ 953 19 01 Gynecology, dietology, lab examinations, consultancy Medical and dental centre Sofia, 100 Vitosha Blvd 02/ 950 04 05 Dentistry, cosmetic dental procedures Medstom Sofia, 26A Al. Dondoukov Blvd 02/ 989 06 06 Dentistry Detsko Zdrave centre Sofia, 27-29 Ami Bue Str 02/ 952 42 97 Child care and examination, cardiology, endocrinology, eye exams, psychological consultation CibaLab Sofia, 31 Lyulin Planina Str 02/ 900 00 11 Laboratory tests Derma Vita Sofia, 4 Adriana Boudevska Str 02/ 952 27 40 Dermatological procedures St Lazar centre Sofia, 4A Simeonovsko Shosse 02/ 962 29 05 Gynecology consultancy and testing, pregnancy consultations Krasimira medical and surgical centre Sofia, 5 Balsha Str 02/ 954 03 24 Surgery and diagnostics Borola Sofia, 52 Tsar Simeon Str 02/ 983 62 03 Consultancy and diagnostics, surgical procedures Torax Sofia, 57 Al. Stamboliiski Blvd 02/ 912 95 Consultancy and diagnostics Reprobiomed Sofia, 5A Dr Peter Beron Str 02/ 963 08 04 Reproductive bio-medicine centre Ralis centre Sofia, 75 Vladaiska Str 02/ 953 30 08 Dietology and weight loss procedures Vita private hospital Sofia, 9 Dragovitsa Str 02/ 943 43 98 Examination, surgical procedures, psychology Health Level medical centre Sofia, Dianabad district, building 14, floor 1 02/ 961 50 55 Consultancy, diagnostics, home visits, lab exams, telephone consultation Fitolek medical centre Sofia, Lozenetz district, 15 Rilski Ezera Str 02/ 962 48 22 Open 10am to 6pm. Need to have an appointment in advance Universum medical Varna, 13 Maria Louisa Blvd 052/ 600 539 Offers alternative medicine and massage Kamee clinic Varna, 21-90 St Nikola district 052/ 335 572 Plastic and reconstructive surgery Kibela consultancy centre Varna, 35 Otets Paisii Str 052/ 605 926 Psychological consultancy Valem Varna, 4 Otets Paisii Str 052/ 602 640 Plastic and aesthetic surgery http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Pedal-power/60/117 Sports Awakening to the sounds of birdsong and running water, you rub your eyes and glance out the door of your tent. You are greeted by yet another beautiful day, dazzling in its perfection. You rise, emerging from your tent with a sleep-dazed smile and matching hair-do, stretching to full reach. A quick dip in the nearby waterfall serves as an invigorating morning shower, and you spring to full awareness, lycra-clad body close to every sensation of the wind’s gentle breath and sun’s warming rays. Weary muscles complain mournfully, yet the heart’s spirit overcomes sensations of pain, knowing that limberness shall soon follow a quick morning warm-up and stretch. You prepare breakfast – a gourmet feast of hearty muesli, Bulgarian yoghurt, freshly collected wild berries, ripe plums and cherries – perfect energy food, nutritious and tasty. With that, you pack up camp, load your bike, and pedal off for another day of beautiful bicycling. You could be anywhere, but something about the plenitude of lightly trafficked side roads, frequent villages, and everlasting plains running between parallel running mountains tells you you’re in Bulgaria. As you gently wind higher and higher through beautiful sun dappled forest, past monasteries, you begin to wonder if this is the road to heaven. For though it’s a challenge, it’s a rewarding one, and the thrill and pleasure of coasting down the other side more than makes up for the hour spent pedalling in earnest to reach the peak. You’re passing through gorges, cycling rolling hills of the high plains, passing lakes and following rivers, watching the sun rise, and resting in the shade of a pleasant tree to devour a well-earned picnic lunch. As you begin to pedal off once more, dreamingly contemplating how perfect your Bulgarian bicycling paradise is, it all comes grinding to a halt. A car is swerving towards you, and from the manner in which it’s being driven, you suspect it may be fuelled by Rakia. But in looking transfixed at your oncoming threat, you’ve taken your attention off the road for a moment too long, for appearing in the road before you is a gaping chasm, a pothole of mammoth proportions. As you hastily manoeuvre around the pothole, your sudden movement throws your balance off centre, and as you struggle to control the overcorrections of your loaded bike, you join the oncoming driver in a dance of death. Cycling may be the perfect way to see Bulgaria, which boasts highly favourable cycling conditions with a wide variety of cycling options to match your skills and desires. There is plenty of opportunity for extended touring, whether you choose to make use of the extensive network of mountain huts and private accommodations, or choose to brave the elements and free-camp. Alternately, you may wish to join a ‘weekend warrior’ road group for a spin between Stara Planina and the Rhodope mountains, or mountain-biking through Pirin may be more your style. Cycling not only allows you to get up close with nature, it also turns cultural or environmental tourism into a more immersing, rewarding experience that concurrently improves your health and fitness. It’s not without its trials – exhausted muscles and a drenched body may test your resolve as you’re approaching yet another hill, though pushing yourself to overcome personal limits has resounding implications for your broader life. Beware of your vulnerability in the face of Bulgarian manic driving tendencies, highlighted to me as a car’s passenger: while overtaking on a blind corner tailgating another driver doing the same, the driver ahead swerved to avoid the oncoming car mirroring our inopportune blind-corner overtaking misadventure, causing my life to flash before my eyes. Fortunately, the most scenic roads, those that wind through the mountains or stretch from village to village, are also the ones with least traffic. Consequently, the majority of close encounters you will have shall be those with wild animals, including run-ins with wild pigs and dogs guarding railway crossings. If you’re not confident to go cycling solo, or lack the equipment, there are a few options available to you. I was fortunate enough to enjoy touring with an amateur archaeologist and cycling enthusiast, Ljubomir Radev, in an on and off-road adventure from Plovdiv. Our three-day tour took in Koprivichitsa, a cooling bath in an open air mineral pool in Hisar, and a Thracian tomb. Ljubomir, present at the recent tomb discoveries near Shipka, had an immense knowledge of Thracian history, and there was no better guide to enlighten me to the nature of the numerous Thracian tombs that guarded our route, and to discover a sacrificial rock beside a spring as we climbed to spend the night in a mountain hut. If mountain biking is more your thing, you may wish to contact www.adventurenetbg.com. Routes can generally be tailored to fitness, experience, and interest. But if you’re keen to see the best of Bulgaria for yourself, here are a few recommended highlights: • The rolling hills near Koprivshtitsa provide ideal territory for those who enjoy a moderate challenge through alternating field and forest, an opportunity to overtake horse-and-cart, or to steal rides from tractors uphill. • Cycling over Shipka pass gives you a greater understanding of its strategic importance, for high above you loom impassable obstacles, and the pass itself if hard enough to access. It provides a fantastic view over much of Bulgaria. • The cycle up to Rila Monastery is easily accomplished and an opportunity to stay overnight in the Rila Monastery shouldn’t be scoffed at. • The Iskar River carves two beautiful paths through mountain ranges as it flows from Samokov to Mezdra, in the process creating glorious canyons, jaw-dropping scenery and exhiliarating roads on which to freewheel. Try to avoid Sofia if at all possible, a city which can almost be as challenging to maintain a calm temper and vital statistics as Istanbul or Sydney. The Samokov – Sofia section is almost-completely downhill as it passes the lovely Lake Iskar. The Sofia – Mezdra section is more undulating but made all the more worthwhile as the Iskar battles harder and harder to find a path through increasingly ominous cliffs. Camping is generally possible beside a stream just off the road, outside a village. Alternately, you may wish to make use of mountain huts or private lodgings to lighten the load you’re carrying. If rather than cycling a round loop, you wish to cycle from A to B, you may need to board a train or bus, both of which present minor difficulties. For instance, if you wish to catch a train from Mezdra back to Sofia, you may need to wait for a train that carries cargo (beware the added insurance charge). Bus drivers may claim that there is no space for your bike, but this is often just an attempt to extract large carriage fees from you – removing the wheels and inspecting all cargo bays should demonstrate an abundance of space that you may fit your bike in – otherwise, cash will definitely open doors. Ljubomir Radev may be contacted at thefantazyworld@yahoo.com or 0898224951. Alternately, call the Sportna Sreshta hostel on 032/635115. Mountain bikers may wish to speak with Emilia from www.adventurenetbg.com on 0888889371, or Philip from www.trek.bg on 0888222858 http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Bend-it-like-Bikram/60/118 Sports The mind is like a drunken monkey, Swami Niranjan-ananda had said, it constantly jumps here and there. Amidst ringing phones, the steady traffic through the front office and the chatter of colleagues, I remember the voice of my yoga teacher saying: "If your mind is not right here, right now, focused on this practice, pull it gently back to the present". But it returns to a recent past, in a softly lit yoga hall decorated in muted earthly tones and perfumed with incense. "Yoga is about discovering one's true self, and there is nothing religious about this," Maria Spassova, instructor at Gayatri Studio, says, speaking of the misconception that the ancient Indian lifestyle and belief system is a religion. When she was a student of pedagogy some five years ago, Maria decided to accompany her mother, who had serious health problems, among which a form of cancer, on a trip to India. "I did it for fun and out of curiosity," she said. Maria spent two years at the Bihar Yoga Bharati, the first accredited yoga university in the world. Her mother still lives there and serves the yoga community by travelling all over the globe and spreading the word. "I know, it sounds like some sect, but it is not," Maria says, laughing. The melodic mantra chants coming from the stereo join the stream of her laughter. "I don't understand people who want to do yoga only to make their bodies fit or flexible," she says then seriously. "I can't think of yoga simply as physical exercise, because I know human beings are not simply physical bodies. There are, actually, those who start off by focusing on the 'asanas' (postures) but gradually they develop an understanding and a desire to learn more than there is to the bending and twisting of muscles and joints." And there is infinitely more. In the homeland of yoga, India, a wise man named Patanjali summarised the way of the ancient art in the Yoga Sutra some 2000 years ago. His eight-limb path (ashtanga yoga) consists of restraints, observances, postures, breathing, withdrawal of senses, concentration, meditation, and absorption. The Sanskrit word "yuj," from which the term "yoga" originates, is literally translated as "yoke", or "union" - the union of the physical, emotional, intellectual and spiritual body of a person, the union between the person and the Universe. In the United States, the yoga workout has been popular for the past 30 years and more, with celebrities such as Madonna, actor David Duchovny and model Christy Turlington bringing it in the public eye. The physical exercise, or the so-called hatha yoga, is the emphasis and sometimes the only aspect of yoga on which people focus. Sprained ankles, overly strained muscles and even fractures are quite likely to happen. Bulgarian yoga started in the 1960s with pioneer Ventseslav Evtimov laying the foundations, but only in the past couple of years the number of people who reach for the mat as a form of stress-relief has increased. Yoga studios have popped up all over Sofia and in some larger Bulgarian cities to answer the demand. Almost every fitness complex offers training sessions such as yoga stretching or power yoga, but breathing and meditation techniques are taught sparingly. A number of certified yoga instructors in Bulgaria are educated in the Satyananda tradition, which is an integral type of yoga and combines breathing, meditation and postures. If you are looking for a teacher, it is a good idea to ask them how much they emphasise each of these practices, and how intensive the workout is. There are types of yoga, such as Ashtanga, or power yoga, in which most participants will actually break sweat. It is physically demanding as moving from one posture to another might include jumping. The followers of Sahaja yoga concentrate on meditation. The Bikram practice is carried out in sauna-like hot rooms to replicate the climate of the homeland of yoga. There are a number of other traditions and practices, so always ask what you should expect. Some who are new to yoga prefer to start with limiting themselves to the physical workout, because they are intimidated by the complexity of advanced asanas where one would literally put their feet behind their ears. Others don't want to become vegetarians and to perform cleansing routines such as pouring salted water through one nostril and taking it out of the other. "No one would force you to do all these things," Maria says. "You go by your own rhythm and you are encouraged to listen to the signals of your body. If you are not ready to take up vegetarianism, don't do it, it is not obligatory. Modern-day yoga adapts to the modern-day world," she adds. There are only two "rules" she would advise her students to follow. First, by all means talk to the instructor if you have some type of serious or chronic medical condition, so that they can adjust the asanas to your special needs. And second, don't eat for two hours before your yoga practice. "Go to yoga on time, at least 10 minutes before the start," Maria adds, "When you are late you stress yourself, and yoga is about the opposite - relieving stress." When asked why the number of women in Bulgaria interested in yoga greatly exceeds the number of men, she says: "Women are emotionally more open, and for our practice you need to be open, realise how you feel and not suppress these feelings. Men's social role is to be stable and reliable, to provide for the family. This is why most men cannot let go and have serious blockages on an emotional level". "Men are afraid to be called gay if they admit they practice yoga," Maria continues. "And this is horrible, just look at what our society does to us. Fear is used to dissuade people," she adds. Maria is silent for a moment while the mantra "Om shaanti shaanti shaanti" pours from the speakers of her stereo. Then she joins the beautiful female voice and chants along with the prayer for individual peace, communal peace, and universal peace. http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Useful-numbers/26/119 Useful Numbers A number of emergency and service lines operate in Bulgaria. You can use these numbers in cases of emergency or need of immediate service. Bare in mind that ambulances, in case you need such, might take some time to reach you. The same applies for police, especially in bigger cities and towns. Emergency Ambulance 150 Fire department  160 Police 166 Emergency road service 146     Sofia Airport International arrivals 02/ 937 22 12 International departures 02/ 937 22 12 Lost luggage 02/ 937 22 12 Domestic flights 02/ 937 24 91     Utilities problems Phone lines 130 Waterworks 02/ 974 54 18 Central heating 02/ 951 51 96     Miscellaneous Operator international calls 0123 Operator long-distance calls 121 Phone numbers information 144 http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Navigating-a-successful-school-year/24/120 Education and Childcare By Teanna Sunberg As the last strands of summer dissolve on the horizon, the focus turns away from those long, lazy days by the pool and we chart a course into blustery mornings, routines, and homework. For many, the first day of school brings a moment of sadness. Others greet the new school year as an opportunity for new beginnings. Most students find their stomachs aflutter with nerves during the first days and even weeks of school. To put things into perspective for us adults, one article on transitioning into a new school year compared the stresses of a new classroom, teacher, peer group and academic expectations to that of starting over at a new job every year. It is an intimidating thought, is it not? According to the experts, there are positive ways that parents can significantly help their children settle into a successful and pleasant year. Experts even say that a good start to a school year can affect social and academic performance. Some advice from the experts can help to navigate the sometimes choppy waters of education. Get to know the school l take time to read the school’s handbook. Do not be afraid to ask questions. Let your children know that you have read it and that you expect them to play by the rules and that you expect good behaviour from them. Keep the handbook in an available place. Make a concentrated effort to know your child’s teacher and give them the opportunity to know you as well. The more information a teacher has about your family and any stresses that might be happening within the family, the better equipped the teacher to understand and recognise signs from your child. You might even try inviting the teacher over for supper. Know what is happening in your child’s classroom. Ask the teacher if you can come in and observe for a few minutes. Make an effort to stay out of the way and sit quietly. Never interrupt a lesson. Never show up and expect to observe a class in action without setting a definite date and time. Ask for permission to observe, do not demand it. Be Involved If you can arrange your schedule, offer to volunteer at the school. This can be a weekly commitment or even just once a semester. Talk to your child’s teacher and offer to do whatever would be most helpful to him/her. You may be an accountant but if cutting out letters for the bulletin board is the most pressing need, pick up a pair of scissors. Check your child’s textbooks regularly to make sure they are progressing. Communicate Take a list of questions with you to the parent-teacher conference. Ask about the materials and methods the teacher is using with your child. Ask the teacher for advice on how you can help your child’s process of learning. Ask the teacher his/her preferred mode of communication. Some teachers like a phone call while others would prefer a note. Other options might be by email or face to face.Inform the teacher of changes at home (i.e. one parent’s prolonged absence). Invest in your child Listen actively. This means, put down your book, turn off the computer, establish eye contact and have a conversation with your child. Ask questions. Emphasise the positive aspects of school. If at all possible, arrange your schedule so that you are home when they get home. It may seem a little idealistic, but a plate of cookies and a glass of milk can be a dream come true after a long day at school. Make the dinner hour a family affair. Sit down together at the table, pass the corn, and talk about your day. Making this hour a priority goes a long way toward building family unity. Encourage healthy habits Let your kids see you reading, conversing with peers, dreaming and problem solving. Turn off the television and encourage kids to pick up a book instead. Experts advise removing the television from a child’s bedroom. They also say to avoid turning it on in the morning before school. Decide to have a positive attitude about the school. Kids pick up on your feelings. Build up a library in your home. Leave time for kids to have fun. After school activities are good but more is not always better. A good rule of thumb is one to two activities a week. Get organisedLay out clothes before bedtime - make sure your child is involved in choosing what to wear.Prepare the backpack the night before. One innovative author suggested laying the backpack on top of the shoes.Make homework a priority. Establish a routine, including where to do homework and when to do it. Some families prefer getting it done right after school. Others use the after-dinner block. Keep necessary tools like pencils and scissors in a handy place. If the child does not have homework, encourage him/her to read. Make sure homework is done before bedtime. Never do homework for your child but stay available to help.Keep those notes from school from getting lost by establishing a place for them and putting them there immediately after school. Kids should be responsible for emptying their backpacks and placing notes from school in the appropriate spot. Praise and prepare Make every effort to avoid arguments or yelling in the morning. Try a love note in their lunch box or backpack. Establish a routine for leaving the house. In other words, do the same things in the same order each morning. Talk to your child and explain how the morning will look before you try setting the routine on the first day. Tell your child that he is courageous for going to school. Use words that show her that she is competent, capable, and talented. Arrange for play dates with other kids. In the first weeks of school, these extra social outings can really go a long way toward making your child feel comfortable with his/her classmates. Sleep Experts seem to agree with the following general formula: Preschoolers need 11 hours of sleep. Kindergarteners and 1st graders generally need eight to 12 hours. Early grade-school students require about eight to 10 hours of rest. Resource yourself There are a lot of good resources out there, but one that seemed to stand out, was a series called, “Core Knowledge Series”. These are resource books that help teachers and parents know what a student should be learning at each grade level from Kindergarten to grade six. Ready or not the school year has arrived and with it comes new challenges and exciting ports of learning and growing. School should be and can be a safe and nurturing environment to explore new horizons. As with most things, however, the first half of the journey begins before we ever walk through the doors of academia. The point of departure, so to speak, begins at home. Bon Voyage. The information for this article was compiled from a variety of sources on the internet. To do your own research or for more in-depth information, try putting the following key words into a search engine: new school year / school year, transitions / school advice, psychology. http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/When-the-kids-stay-home/24/121 Education and Childcare By Teanna Sunberg A young mother recently asked me if her guilt-ridden conscience was justified in its condemnation of a weekend away while the kids stayed at home with a babysitter. I tucked away a smile and reassured her that, in my opinion, a couple of nights away would cause no long-lasting harm to the hearts and minds of her little cherubs. In truth, even as I uttered the reassurance, I breathed a heartfelt prayer that the advice I offered was correct. This conversation hit home for me personally since the last couple of months have brought temporary yet tear-filled separations for our family. As in most things, balance and good sense can serve as reliable guides for how much time we should spend away from our family. Over the last couple of months, I have observed the anxieties that accompany short-term absences of one or both parents. It has been reassuring to note that many practical pieces of advice offered by the experts really do seem to work. There are some healthy and helpful steps that aide that transitional “goodbye” which usually leaves your ears ringing, your shirt tearstained, and your heart bleeding in the doorway. One of the best tools at your disposal is simply communication. A few days before departure, begin to talk about the upcoming separation. Explain in age-appropriate language where and why you are going and for how long. It may be appropriate to discuss with older children how often you will contact them and how that contact will be made. If options are available, allow them to choose the mode of contact - perhaps they would find a daily email more comforting than a phone call. If you will be someplace where frequent contact is unpredictable or impossible, think about writing a personal note or two before your trip and ask the babysitter to hand deliver the mail. Children generally find it comforting to know the length of the separation. A calendar can be a visibly reassuring asset as each passing day is documented. For younger children, a calendar with pictures in lieu of words will be great. Consider crafting the piece of art together as you discuss your trip. Transition is often the most troubling aspect of a parent’s departure especially for younger children. The best babysitter is a trustworthy person that the children know and someone that is familiar with your family routine and system of rules. On one of our recent trips, we left a trio of twenty-something young adults in charge of our troupe. These friends are frequently in our home and therefore very familiar with the nuances and feel of our family. Upon our return, we found four happy children, a clean house, and three exhausted caregivers. Do not be worried if smaller children revert to younger behaviour for a period of time. They may wake in the night, want to go back to a bottle, or even begin wetting the bed. This is normal and should clear up soon after your return. Even more disconcerting, is to be met by a pout in place of the hug and kiss you are expecting as you walk off the plane. Some children may feel angry over your absence. This was the case with our four-year-old who met her father at the airport with haughty eyes and a stubborn tilt to her head. She refused to hug or talk to her dad, in her own way exacting punishment for his misdeeds. The sentence lasted a period of a few hours when pouts gave way to giggles; of course the stuffed animal may have played a part as well in her softening demeanor. Be specific with expectations. Tell your kids what kind of behaviour you expect while you are gone. Leave detailed instructions with the babysitter regarding schedule, rules of the house, and the consequences of misbehaviour. Pre-plan a family activity that will happen upon your return. Include the kids at the early stages of planning so that they have something to anticipate. Be careful not to equate participation in this celebration with their behaviour in your absence. Rewards for good behaviour are appropriate but kids should also be assured that their behaviour does not endanger your time together as a family. Leaving all the proper documents, emergency phone numbers, and lists of people to contact for advice is an obvious step but worth mentioning anyway. Prepare a folder with all of the documentation safely tucked within and leave it in an accessible place. Though not pleasant, it is wise to leave a signed statement that transfers authority for medical decisions in your absence. If your children are school-aged, make sure that you include the teacher in the communication loop. Knowing of your absence can help them to understand uncharacteristic behaviour and ‘read’ circumstances differently. In families with more than one child, making an older child feel that you have entrusted them with responsibility in your absence can be especially helpful. Feeling empowered to act as the ‘junior babysitter’ or the caregiver’s aide can serve to give them the role of the ‘go to’ person. An appropriate level of responsibility is a great character builder. My personal thanks to colleague and psychologist, Mena McCabe, who researched this topic for me and incidentally, was part of the exhausted trio mentioned earlier. As you are preparing to depart don’t forget about that family activity upon your return. Here are some ideas to get you thinking: 1. Cuddle on the couch with popcorn and a movie 2. Gather around the dinner table playing a board game 3. Take the family bowling 4. Dine out at the family’s favourite restaurant 5. Hike up Vitosha 6. Slip away to Veliko Turnovo or Plovdiv and experience history together 7. Visit a museum in Sofia 8. Make a craft project together 9. Cook a tempting dessert together and then enjoy it 10. Go to a movie together http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Taxation-overview/34/123 Taxes In view of the country's upcoming European Union accession, Bulgaria has made considerable reforms in the taxation system to harmonise it with EU legislation. In 2006, the corporate tax rate remains 15 per cent. Special-purpose investment companies and companies setting up in areas with high employment, however, are not liable to corporate tax. Insurance companies and organisations engaged in gambling. The tax year runs from January 1 to December 31. The tax amount is calculated based on profit declared the previous year. Tax is paid in advance in monthly installments. Tax declarations should be submitted by March 31. In April, the company pays the difference between the tax amount paid over the previous year and the actual amount of tax owed. Any “autonomous economic activity” performed regularly is liable to Value-Added Tax (VAT). Any such entity is liable to VAT on each supply of goods and services (including transfer of ownership) on Bulgarian territory. VAT is 20 per cent and although a reduction has been mooted there are no concrete plans. VAT is declared and paid on a monthly basis, the last deadline being the 14th of each month. Fines for late submission and payment are hefty. Tourism companies currently pay only seven per cent VAT. All permanent residents in Bulgaria are liable for personal income tax. A permanent resident is considered anyone living over 183 days a year in the country. Every year employees are obliged to submit an annual income declaration by April 15 and pay the tax owed within 30 days from the submission. The wage you receive under a labour contract is taxed on a monthly bases. The annual taxable base is the sum of all taxable incomes received during the calendar year, deducted by: incomes taxed with a final tax, mandatory and voluntary national insurance, pension, health insurance and unemployment fund contributions, as well as the premiums paid in on account of the persons under life insurance contracts and life insurance, if connected with an investment fund; statutory deductions applicable only to non-employment contracts (e.g., 35 per cent of the gross income for services contracts; 10 per cent for management fees); tax relief on donations not exceeding 10 per cent of the taxable income after other statutory deductions have been made – not applicable to employment income; there are no tax deductions related to personal allowances for spouses and dependents. Double taxation Foreigners not Bulgarian residents but receiving incomes from Bulgaria are also subject to taxation under the terms defined by Bulgarian laws. Provided Bulgaria has an agreement for avoiding double taxation with the foreigner's home state, after the tax payment, the foreign person may request a refund of the difference between the tax paid and the one due under the relevant double taxation agreement. In such cases, the foreign person has to prove that he is a resident of the country with which Bulgaria has signed such an agreement, and that he has no establishment or fixed base within Bulgarian territory related to the respective income. Royalty payments [amount of money paid to the owner of an intellectual property rights (licensor)] for the use of copyright or patent. According to Bulgarian laws when paid to non-Bulgarian residents, the payments are subject to a 15-per cent withholding tax. The same rule is valid for technical services fees. Tax exemption incomes include:1.Income from the sale of certain types of residential apartments and cars 2.Money from the sale of securities 3.Deposit interests 4.State subsidies for children 5.Student grants 6.Lottery prizes Capital Gains The tax base in case of sale or exchange of immovable and certain movable property is the difference between the selling price and the higher price between the factual and updated price paid for the acquisition of such property. This rule applies to certain types of vehicles (e.g., aircraft, sea vessels and cars). For any other type of movable property the tax base is the difference between the selling price and the re-valued price for the acquisition of such property. Rental Income Received Twenty per cent of the income is tax deductible. If the rent is payable to a non-Bulgarian tax resident, a 15 per cent withholding tax is levied. http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Currency-exchange-tips/35/124 Exchange Bureaus - It is advisable to exchange money in a bank. Currency exchange rates in banks are sometimes lower than the ones exchange bureaus offer but you would be certain of the amount you would receive and avoid chances of being tricked.   - The Bulgarian currency is the lev. When exchanging money, look for places that offer exchange rates of approximately 1.95 leva for one euro. The Bulgarian lev to euro rate is fixed to 1.95583 so you can use this value as the best estimate of the acceptability of exchange rates that currency bureaus offer.   - It is recommended to bring US dollars or euro as this is the currency that most exchange bureaus can convert to leva. You might have difficulty converting some less popular and not so widely used currencies.   - Some exchange bureaus offer different rates for smaller and larger sums, with the ones for small amounts being somehow unprofitable. Study carefully the exchange rate tables if you decide to use the services of an exchange bureau.   - Examine tables for commission percentages, as some bureaus withhold part of the sum. This may be noted in small letters or in the bottom of the exchange rate table so examine it carefully before you decide to use the services of the respective bureau.   - According to regulations, exchange bureaus are obliged to give you exactly the same sum that is listed on their exchange rate tables. A deal is not finalised until the customer has signed the receipt. Request one and examine it carefully before concluding the transaction.   - Never accept to exchange money on the street. Even if you are offered what seems to be a good deal, chances are you would be ripped off. Don't trust street currency sellers and resort to exchange bureaus, or more preferably bank offices. http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Costs-of-living/32/125 Cost of Living Cost of living Loaf of bread 0.30 euro  Box of milk 1 l 0.75 euro  Cheese 1 kg  3.50 euro Apples 1 kg 1.00 euro  Potatoes 1 kg 0.50 euro Eggs carton of 6 0.50 euro Olive oil 1 l 0.50 – 1.00 euro Onions 1 kg 0.40 euro Tomatoes 1 kg 0.50 – 1.00 euro Rice 1 kg 0.90 – 1.00 euro  Chicken breast 1 kg 2.00 – 2.5 euro Butter 0.250 kg 1.00 euro Chocolate bar 0.50-1.00 euro Coca-Cola 2 l 0.70 – 1.00 euro  Cup of coffee 0.50 euro  Mineral water 1.5 l 0.30 euro Wine 0.75 l 2.00 – 4.00 euro  Beer 0.5 l  0.25 – 0.50 euro Cheeseburger 0.50 – 1.00 euro  Fuel 1 litre 1.00 euro  Gas (annual) 105 euro Water bill (annual) 30– 40 euro  Electricity bill (annual)  200 – 220 euro  Public transportation fare (one way) 0.35 euro Taxi – fee per km 0.25 euro Pack of cigarettes 1.50 euro  Box of condoms  1.50 euro http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Bank-offices-and-financial-services/33/126 Bank Services Commercial Banks   NAME ADDRESS TELEPHONE E-MAIL WEB SITE HVB Bank Biochim 1 Ivan Vazov Str, 1026-Sofia 02/ 926 9210 info@biochim.com www.biochim.com Bulbank 7 Sveta Nedelya Sq, Sofia 02/ 923 21 11 retail@bulbank.bg www.bulbank.bg Bulgarian Post Bank 1 Bulgaria Sq, Sofia  02/ 65 91 06   www.postbank.bg BNP - Paribas  2 Tsar Osvoboditel Blvd, Sofia 02/ 921 86 40   www.bulgaria. bnpparibas.com Corporate Commercial Bank  10 Graf Ignatiev Str, Sofia 02/ 980 93 62 corpbank@corpbank.bg  www.corpbank.bg   SG Expressbank   92 Vladislav Varnenchik Blvd, Varna 052/ 68 61 00 webmaster@ sgexpressbank.bg www.sgexpressbank.bg   Hebrosbank  2 Knyaginya Maria Louisa Blvd, Sofia 02/ 926 47 00 corporate.office@hebros.bg    www.hebros.bg Commercial Bank Allianz Bulgaria   79 Maria Louisa Blvd, Sofia 02/ 921 54 04 admin@bank.allianz.bg www.bank.allianz.bg International Orthodox Bank St Nikola 155 GS Rakovski Blvd, Sofia 02/ 981 77 62     Raiffeisenbank - Bulgaria  18-20 Gogol Str, Sofia 02/ 919 851 01   www.raiffeisen.bg United Bulgarian Bank 70 Maria Louisa Blvd, Sofia 02/ 811 28 00 info@sof.ubb.bg www.ubb.bg Economic and Investment Bank 11a Suborna Str, Sofia 02/ 939 9 40   www.eibank.bg First Investment Bank  10, S Karadjia Str, Sofia 02/ 910 01 fib@fibank.bg www.fibank.bg Bulgarian American Credit Bank 16 Krakra Str, Sofia 02/ 965 83 58 bacb@baefinvest.com www.bacb.bg CB Unionbank Ltd  10-12 Damyan Grouev Str, Sofia 02/ 988 46 39 mainmail@unionbank.bg www.unionbank.bg Teximbank 107 Maria Louisa Blvd, Sofia  02/ 33 32 40 us@teximbank.bg www.teximbank.bg Municipality Bank 6 Vrabcha Str, 2 floor, Sofia 02/ 930 01 11 contacts@municipalbank.bg    Pireus Eurobank 43 Cherni Vruh Blvd, Sofia   eurobank@eurobank.bg   www.eurobank.bg   Bulgarian National Bank 1 Al Battenberg Sq, Sofia  02/ 914 59   www.bnb.bg   Investbank 83a Bulgaria Blvd, Sofia 02/ 854 81 99 office@ibank.bg www.ibank.bg DZI-Rossexsimbank 4-6 Dondoukov Blvd, Sofia     www.dzi.bg    Central Cooperative Bank 6 Dragan Sankov Blvd, Sofia 02/ 964 16 95    cards@ccbank.bg www.ccbank.bg    Commercial Bank D 8 Tsar Osvoboditel Blvd, Sofia  info@dbank.bg www.dbank.bg Encouragement Bank 1 Dyakon Ignatii Str, Sofia  02/ 930 63 33 office@nasbank.bg www.nasbank.bg ProCredit Bank 131 Hristo Botev Blvd, Sofia   contact@procreditbank.bg www.procreditbank.bg     Foreign Banks with offices in Bulgaria   NAME ADDRESS TELEPHONE E-MAIL WEB SITE ING NV - Sofia Branch 12 Emil Bersinski Str, Sofia  02/ 917 67 00   ing.infobg@ingbank.com  www.ingbank.com Ionian and Popular Bank of Greece SA - Sofia Branch  20, Alexander Stamboliiski Blvd, Sofia 0030/ 1 3225 501  ioner@hol.gr   Alpha Bank 11 Narodno Subranie Sq, Sofia       02/ 810 94 00 AlphaBankSofia@alphabank.bg   Societe Generale - Sofia Branch  36 Dragan Tsankov Blvd, Trade Centre Interpred, Sofia  02/ 919 41     TC Ziraat Bankasi - Sofia Branch  19 Sveta Nedelya Sq, Sofia  02/ 980 00 87  ziraat@medicom.bg   http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Overview/56/131 Religious Services Bulgaria's Constitution guarantees freedom of religion. At the same time regulations forbid public practices of religion by unregistered groups. Bulgarians are generally open to religious practices, different from the officially recognised Christian Orthodoxy. In some cases discrimination and harassment occur. Almost 85 per cent of the Bulgarians follow Christian Orthodox practices. Muslims are the largest religious minority of the country, nearly 13 per cent of the population. Other religious groups in Bulgaria include Catholics, Protestants and Jews. Nearly 40 per cent of the Bulgarians questioned in a survey said they were atheist or agnostic. Apart from the Bulgarian Orthodox Church, more than 60 other denominations were registered. Missionaries of Protestant churches, the Catholic Church, the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints and others are present in Bulgaria. http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Churches-and-religious-organisations/56/132 Religious Services We offer you the contact details of churches, Christian denominations and religious organisations present in Bulgaria.   Bulgarian Orthodox Church official website: http://bulch.tripod.com/boc   Sofia 7 Tsar Kaloyan Str 02/ 88 23 40 Plovdiv 16 Stanislav Dospevski Str 032/ 22 32 61 Veliko Turnovo 25 Ivan Vazov Str 062/ 25 770 Sliven Hadzhi Dimitar Square 044/ 22 325 Lovech 12 Cherkovna Str 068/ 22 079   The General Mufti's Office official website: http://www.genmufti.org/   Sofia 27 Bratia Miladinovi Str 02/ 981 60 01   Bulgarian Catholic Church: official website: http://catholic-bg.org/   Sofia Liulin Planina Str 02/ 952 29 59 Plovdiv 22 Krustiu Pastouhov Str 032/ 62 10 32 Bourgas Sheinovo 1 Str 056/ 40 290       Union of Evangelical Congregational Churches in Bulgaria e-mail: sescbg@yahoo.com   Sofia 49 Solunska Str 02/ 980 56 85       Bulgaria Sofia Mission of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter - Day Saints         Sofia 21 Marin Drinov Str 02/ 946 33 30   Born of the Virgin Mary Church     Sofia Lagera District 02/ 952 06 99   National Alliance United Churches of God   Sofia 69 Veslets Str 02/ 931 09 22 http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Human-Resources-General-Info/42/133 Human Resources As a result of Bulgaria's European Union integration process and rapid economic growth, much of the country's human resources practise has been synchronised with that of Western Europe. Still, employers in Bulgaria remain restricted by bureaucracy as far as dismissal rights are concerned. A foreign employer should have in mind that despite the reputedly high level of education of Bulgarian workers, employees are sometimes described as lacking initiative and a service-oriented mentality. Finding staff is relatively easy if employers use the services of the numerous employment agencies. These human resource agencies handle all procedures from placing advertisements to psychometric testing of your future workers. Other opportunities for those seeking employees include advertising in the press or online. Services provided by online job sites are increasing in popularity, as more and more young people prefer researching jobs via the internet. Since employment in Sofia is relatively low, finding well-qualified workers might be difficult. You may get 200 responses to an advertisement only to find that no one fits the bill. Bulgarian business representatives say that the lack of qualified workers is becoming increasingly troublesome. Some ideas include ‘importing’ employees from countries such as Vietnam to cover the needs of the tourism sector. http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Employment-Contracts/42/134 Human Resources The relationships between workers and their employers are defined and regulated by obligatory employment contracts. There are many types of contracts; all of them have to specify the location and type of work and the salary. Usually, contracts are signed for an indefinite period of time, with the law allowing for a six-month probation period. The Labour Code also provides for fixed-term contracts, and for temporary, seasonal or other short-term work. By law, an employment contract should specify: 1.Working hours 2.Remuneration 3.Holidays 4.Measures taken for a safe and healthy working environment 5.Conditions for contract termination Civil contracts are used instead of permanent ones when a worker is hired for the fulfilment of a specific task. Such contracts do not specify working times and absences like standard contracts. When signing a civil contract, the employer is obliged to pay the state a 20-per cent advance tax. In case of termination, the former employee cannot register as unemployed, as civil contracts do not include unemployment fund contribution payments. A contract can be ended with a written notice given from 30 days to three months prior to departure. Failure to observe notice periods may result in compensation claims. When firing a worker, a specific and detailed explanation of the reasons is required as well as proof of the worker's incompetence. To prevent such problems, it is strongly advised to use the services of a good lawyer and always provide an exhaustive job description. A worker's salary is calculated through a complicated system that takes into consideration the length of service, job class and industry category. The employer is also obliged to pay social security and health and pension insurance fees. Incentives include free medical service, mobile phone vouchers and transport cards. According to social security standards, the employer should register the worker at the local social security administration within a week of the conclusion of the contract. The law permits a normal workweek of 40 hours maximum, or 46 hours in a six-day workweek with provisions for flexible shifts. Every employee is entitled to a minimum of 20 days annual paid leave. Women have the right to a two-year maternity leave during which their position remains guaranteed. All foreigners with permanent residence in Bulgaria or those granted sanctuary or refugee status have the right to work in Bulgaria. They work under the same rules and practises valid for Bulgarian citizens. Temporary work permits are issued by the National Office of Employment of the Labour and Social Policy Ministry. These work permits are issued for a specified time, job and employer and can only be issued after an application is submitted by the employer. A permit is valid for the time of the employment contract but not more than one year. The permission may be extended. However, this permission enables a foreigner to take the job only if no Bulgarian citizen has applied for the same position. Legal restrictions limit the number of foreign employees to 10 per cent of the total work force. If employment is unwillingly terminated for the employee, the employer is obliged to provide the worker with a ticket to his home country. Work permits for foreigners will not be issued if the employer making the application has within the past eight months dismissed Bulgarian citizens suitable for the job for which the permit is being requested, or the offered work conditions and remuneration are less favourable than those usual for Bulgarian employees, or if the salary offered is insufficient to ensure the necessary means of existence, or the constitution or the law require Bulgarian citizenship for the job. http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Tourism/67/135 General Information Tourism is one of the most happening and at the same time problematic sectors of the Bulgarian economy. The greatest challenge the country faces is to find ways to make the most of its unique tourism resources. Bulgaria has some first-class mountain and sea resorts, but poor marketing means the country attracts less tourists than it should. Both individual companies and trade organisations are investing in the development of the country’s tourism infrastructure but their efforts are not backed up by a well-financed and well thought out advertising campaign. Up to now the budget allocated to the State Tourism Agency has been highly inadequate and frequent changes of management there have meant little has been achieved. Now though there is some hope that with the establishing of a national tourism board, with the leading tourist companies in charge, and the Agency’s willingness to cooperate with it, there will be some real movement in the right direction. In the forthcoming tourist season new agencies will be opened in foreign countries that have an established interest in Bulgaria. Hopes are high that more advertising will improve the country’s image abroad and thereby lead to greater revenues for this sector. Bulgaria attracts foreign tourists mainly with its sea and mountain resorts. The ski resorts of Pamporovo and Borovets and the famous Slunchev Bryag and Zlatni Pyasutsi beach resorts are just a few of the names attracting large numbers of foreign tourists. The country still has unexplored and unexploited resources for cultural and historic tourism, religious, eco, spa and adventure tourism.Traces of seven civilisations have been discovered on these lands, including the first pre-historic civilisations in Europe, Thracian, Greek, Roman, Byzantine and Islam cultures. Poor management and marketing of these sites, however, has led to low, if any, interest abroad. Currently, cultural tourism provides only two per cent of the total tourism revenue. One of the reasons for the low revenues from cultural tourism is poor accessibility to the sites. The country’s underdeveloped infrastructure plagues the whole industry. This is especially true as far as airports are concerned, with those in the seaside cities of Bourgas and Varna particularly lacking the capacity to serve the increased tourist flow of recent years. The recent rows around the concession deal for the two airports – which would have meant refurbishment and modernisation – have only served to prolong the agony. Major changes in the sector in 2005 included the abolishing of the double pricing system which previously meant that foreigners were charged higher prices – sometimes double! – than Bulgarians were from services as wide-ranging as hotel rooms to ski passes to museum entry fees. Many institutions have found ways to continue this practice, offering discounts for ‘regular customers’ instead. Another change the tourism sector saw last year was the ban on construction work during the holiday season. Trends show that the number of tourists visiting Bulgaria increases by four to 10 per cent annually. The larger part of tourists are Germany, reaching over half a million. Other nations interested in Bulgaria include Greece, Macedonia, Serbia, the UK and Russia. In 2005, tourism revenue reached 15 per cent of the GDP. With revenue for 2005 reaching 1.8 billion euro, the tourism industry registered a 8.78 per cent growth. The number of holidaymakers also increased by 4.5 per cent. Experts predict the 2006 tourism season will see considerable changes to the market. While Germany was for a long time the largest market for the Bulgarian tourist product, the focus has shifted to the Scandinavian countries, the UK and Russia. Predictions are that tourism revenue will total more than 5.6 billion euro in 2006 and reach 16 per cent of the GDP.Real estate market trends show that more and more foreigners are interested in purchasing land at the Bulgarian seaside to build hotels and holiday villages, and this has lead to a record price hike. Although demand remains high, the Bulgarian shoreline is already overcrowded in the summer season and supply of front-line plots suitable for constructing new hotels is low. Tourists have already begun to complain about the crowded shores and investors have transferred their interest from the popular resorts like Slunchev Bryag (Sunny Beach) and Zlatni Pyasutsi (Golden Sands) to the smaller and less-developed areas away from the large cities. http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Privatisation/67/136 General Information One of the biggest and most problematic deals of 2006 was the privatisation of Boyana Film Studios. The company was bought by the American Nu Image for 12.224 million leva. The privatisation contract also included an additional 30 million leva investment. Although it has been several months since the contract was signed, the deal still has not been concluded because of arguments surrounding a mortgage that Boyana Films required before finally transferring 95 per cent of its shares to Nu Image. Accusations of deliberately slowing down the conclusion of the deal and trial threats menace its successful outcome. Another major investor is the Czech power company CEZ, which recently bought the Varna thermal power plant. The deal totalled 20 million euro. CEZ has engaged itself to invest a further 40 million euro over the next four years. The Russian RAO EES won the original tender. Its offer came to 192 million euro. After the Russian company decided to leave the deal, the Privatisation Agency continued negotiations with CEZ, the company ranking second after RAO EES. After the privatisation deal was concluded, CEZ requested a 6.9 per cent increase in electricity prices in Bulgaria. Since 2001, the state has made several unsuccessful attempts to sell Bulgartabac Holding, its largest cigarette producer. In 2005 the company registered a 39.1 million leva net profit and a considerable economic-power growth. According to the adopted privatisation strategy, the holding will retain its profitable cigarette-making factories and will sell only the tobacco processing plants. The privatisation fate of the holding, however, remains unclear, as consultants to draft the necessary analysis for the conclusion of the deal have not yet been selected. The Government has also started privatisation procedures for Bulgaria Air, the country’s flag carrier. The process is hindered by disagreements between the transport and economic policy parliamentary commissions on the privatisation strategy. A consultant company to monitor the conclusion of the deal has yet to be selected. http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Gambling-Regulations/58/137 Gambling   Casinos and gaming halls are mostly present within hotels and tourist areas. In 1993 Bulgaria drafted gambling regulations for the first time, to control the activities of casinos. The decree legalises casinos, bingo halls and lotteries. Additional regulations were drafted in 1998, defining the activities permited in casinos, the types of equipment that can be used and profit taxation. Only people aged over 18 can attend casinos and gaming halls and gamble. Casinos are mostly located in the capital of Sofia and in coastal resorts. Some of them are seasonal and close with the end of the summer. Small casinos operate in other towns. Most towns have at least one bingo hall, as well. With the development of the tourism sector, gambling and the gaming industry in the country is expected to develop. Bulgaria's entry into the EU is also expected to play a positive effect. The State Commission on Gambling is the regulatory body responsible for co-ordinating and supervising the activities of gaming halls. For more information on the commission and its activities, you can visit the official website   http://www.dkh.minfin.bg/index.php?lang=1   http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Embassy-contacts/26/155 Useful Numbers Embassy Address Web Site e-mail Telephone Afghanistan 61 Boryana Str, Sofia     02/ 56 71 55 Albania 10 Krakra Str, Sofia   albania@mail.bol.bg 02/ 946 12 22 Algeria 16 Slavyanska Str, Sofia     02/ 980 22 50 Argentina 42 Klement Gotvald Blvd,  Sofia www.europanas.com/Argentina-Bulgaria.htm arebulg@techno-link.com 02/ 971 25 39 Armenia 11, 20th April Str, Sofia   armembsof@sof.omega.bg 02/ 52 60 46 Austria 4 Shipka Str, Sofia   obsofia@online.bg 02/ 980 35 72 Belarus 20 Kokiche Str, Sofia www.belembassy.org/bulgaria/   02/ 65 28 43 Belgium 1 Velchova Zavera Sq, Sofia www.diplomatie.be/sofia/ Sofia@diplobel.org 02/ 65 04 94 Brazil 19 Frederic Joliot Curie Str, Sofia www.brazil-bg.info/ sofbrem@main.infotel.bg 02/ 72 35 27 Cambodia Acad.Andrey Sakharov Blvd, Sofia     02/ 75 71 35 China 7 Alexander von Hubmbolt Str, Sofia www.chinaembassy.bg/   02/ 973 39  47 Colombia Geo Milev Housing Complex,  Sofia     02/ 973 36 44 Croatia 32 Veliko Turnovo Str, Sofia www.infotel.bg/croembassy dkp_rh@infotel.bg 02/ 943 32 25 Cuba 1 Konstantin Shtarkelov Str, Sofia   consulcuba@mbox.digsys.bg  02/ 72 09 96 Cyprus Uri Gagarin Str, Sofia   cyembsof@fintech.bg 02/ 971 22 41 Czech Republic 9 Yanko Sakazov Blvd,  Sofia www.mzv.cz/wwwo/default.asp?idj=13&amb=71 sofia@embassy.mzv.cz 02/ 946 11 11 Democratic Republic of Korea Mladost 1 Housing Complex, Sofia     02/ 77 53 48 Denmark 54 Dondoukov Blvd, Sofia www.danishembassy.bg sofamb@um.dk 02/ 980 08 30 Egypt 5 Sixth September Str, Sofia     02/ 870 215 Finland 57 Simeonovsko Shosse Blvd,  Sofia     02/ 962 58 70 France 27-29 Oborishte Blvd, Sofia www.ambafrance-bg.org/ presse@ambafrance-bg.org 02/ 965 11 00 Gerrnany 25 Joliot Curie Str, Sofia www.sofia.diplo.de/ gemb@vilmat.com 02/ 963 16 58 Great Britain  9 Moskovska Str, 1000 Sofia www.british-embassy.bg/ britembinf@mail.orbitel.bg 02/ 933 92 22 Greece 33 San Stefano Str, 1504 Sofia www.info.greekembassy-sofia.org/  info@greekembassy-sofia.org 02/ 946 10 27 Hungary 57 Sixth September Str, 1087 Sofia     02/ 963 04 60 India 31 Patriarch Evtimii Blvd, 1000 Sofia   india@inet.bg 02/ 986 77 72 Indonesia 53 Simeonovsko Shosse Blvd, Sofia  www.indonesia.bg   02/ 962 52 40 Iran 77 Vassil Levski Blvd, Sofia     02/ 987 85 46 Iraq 21-23 Anton Chehov Str, Sofia     02/ 70 00 41 Israel 1 Bulgaria Blvd, Sofia  www.sofia.mfa.gov.il  dcm-sec@sofia.mfa.gov.il 02/ 951 50 44 Italy 2 Shipka Str, Sofia  www.ambsofia.esteri.it  ambasciata.sofia@esteri.it 02/ 921 73 00 Japan  14, Lyulyakova Gradina Str, Sofia  www.bg.emb-japan.go.jp   02/ 971 27 08 Kuwait Simeonovsko Shosse Blvd,  Sofia    kuwait@bitex.com 02/ 962 56 89 Libya Andrey Sakharov Blvd, Sofia     02/ 974 32 97 Macedonia 19 Frederic Julio Curie Str, Sofia     02/ 971 37 08 Moldova 17 Patriarh Evtimii Blvd, Sofia     02/ 981 85 53 Mongolia 25 Frederic Julio Curie Str, Sofia     02/ 65 90 12 Morocco 129 Evlogi Georgiev Blvd, Sofia     02/ 943 30 90 The Netherlands 15 Oborishte Str, Sofia  www.holland.bg  sof@minbuza.nl 02/ 816 03 00 Norway 54 B Knyaz Dondukov Blvd, Sofia  www.sofia.mfa.no  Emb.sofia@mfa.no 02/ 981 11 06 Palestine 22 James Boucher Blvd, Sofia     02/ 963 43 24 Panama 192 Praxitelos and Merarchias,185 35 Piraeus, Greece    panpir5@otenet.gr (+ 36 1) 466 9817 Peru 17 Frederic Joliot Curie Str, Sofia  www.brhplsofia.bsbg.net  peru@mail.bol.bg 02/ 971 37 08 Poland 125 Evlogi Georgiev Str,  Sofia  ww.brhplsofia.bsbg.net  brh_pl_sofia@bsbg.net 02/ 944 16 86 Portugal 6 Ivailo voivoda Str, Sofia     02 / 943 36 67 Romania 4 Sitnyakovo Str, Sofia www.bgembassy-romania.org/emb.htm  ambsofro@exco.net 02/ 971 28 58 Russia 28 Dragan Tsankov Blvd, Sofia www.rusembul.org  info@rusembul.org 02/ 963 09 14 Seyschelles 60 Bulgaria Blvd,  Sofia www.seychelles.bg  consul@seychelles.bg 02/ 818 70 10 Slovakia 9 Yanko Sakuzov Blvd, Sofia     02/ 943 32 82 South Africa 3 Vassil Aprilov Str, Sofia     02/ 442 916 Spain 27 Sheinovo Str, Sofia  www.embespbg.com  embespbg@mail.mae.es 02/ 943 36 20 Sweden 4 Alfred Nobel Str, Sofia    swemb@einet.bg 02/ 971 24 31 Switzerland 33 Shipka Str, Sofia     02/ 946 01 97 Syria 13-A Simeonovsko Shosse Blvd, Sofia     02/ 962 57 42 Turkey 80 Vassil Levski Blvd, Sofia    turkel@techno-link.com 02/ 980 22 70 Ukraine 29 Boryana Str, Sofia    puvrb@mail.bol.bg 02/ 955 94 78 USA 16 Kozyak Str, Sofia www.sofia.usembassy.gov  sofia@usembassy.bg 02/ 937 51 00 Uruguay 91 Tsar Ivan Assen II Str, Sofia  www.europanas.com/Uruguay-Bulgaria.htm   02/ 441 957 Venezuela  1 Tulovo Str, Sofia    embavenez@mbox.digsys.bg 02/ 943 30 61 Vietnam 1 Zhetvarska Str, Sofia     02/ 65 83 34 Yemen Andrei Saharov Blvd, Sofia     02/ 75 61 63 Yugoslavia 3 Veliko Turnovo Str, Sofia     02/ 946 16 33 http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/How-not-to-lose-yourself/24/157 Education and Childcare Being a foreign student in a country in which you don't know the language, the people or the educational system is a challenge. This particularly stands out when the chosen university is located in a nation that is not accustomed to seeing many non-nationals. Confusing, but possible. To study at Sofia University (SU), Bulgaria's oldest and most-respected institute of higher learning, the easiest way to obtain basic information is to go to www.uni-sofia.bg. Here, there is information in English and Bulgarian. Be aware, however, that the English side is not as complete and might not be as up to date as the Bulgarian. Click on "Students" and then, on the left side of the page, there is a choice of "Admission Info" or "Foreign Students", among others. Click on the latter, as the former is in Bulgarian and does not apply. This leads to a page dealing with admission requirements for foreign citizens who want to enrol as BA, MA, doctoral or specialising students at higher educational institutions in Bulgaria. It gives a general overview of the system, application procedure and requirements, the academic year, fees, etc. While the page implies that this information applies to all higher educational institutions in Bulgaria, it is best to check with the individual institution before doing anything. Assume that the information on this site applies mostly to SU. Better information is found at http://www.deo.uni-sofia.bg/html_en/intstud.html. If you don't speak Bulgarian, it will be necessary to take a nine-month intensive course in Bulgarian language training before actually starting courses at any university in the country. The courses are taken through SU's Department of Language Learning (DLL, commonly referred to as IChS, or Institut za chouzhdestranni studenti, literally "Institute for Foreign Students", http://www.deo.uni-sofia.bg/index_en.html). Surprisingly, after these nine months of courses 25 hours a week, it will be possible to communicate – well, even – in Bulgaria. This, of course, depends on your efforts! However, when applying to university, be sure to do it early enough, as things close down to a minimum in the summer, and you might have to wait till mid-September to hear from the university if you send in your application after June (like I did). Once you have received some sort of acceptance document/letter, you should be able to apply for a visa in your home country. Allow about a month for this. It is best to arrive in Bulgaria sometime in September for your upcoming year at IChS. Don't expect staff members at SU to be very knowledgeable about how you are to enrol or even find the place. Contact the institute directly. Groups start at random times, so you can't really plan to start on such-and-such a day until about three days before the class is to start. Relax. It's Bulgaria, and this is how things work here. And they do work, too! Morning sessions (8.00-13.10) and afternoon sessions (13.30-18.40) are available, though you might not have much choice. The easiest and preferred way to pay is cash, at the cashier window at the institute. At the beginning of the year, a group, which the institute tries to group together according to field of study, would have between seven and 10 students. Teachers are kind, and tend to communicate only in Bulgarian. Again, it works. Regarding accommodation, many of the students at IChS actually live in a block of rooms next to the it. There are more pleasant and centrally located choices available, but you will have to find this on your own. Don't expect to be coddled or helped along in any way as a student in Bulgaria. This is not a bad thing, just a fact. Unless you make it happen, it won't! Magdalena Rahn For more information on being a foreign student, try contacting: Name: Elena Tsenkova Occupation: Inspector of Foreign Students Phone: (+359 2) 930 85 48 Fax: (+359 2) 946 02 55 E-mail: foreignstud@admin.uni-sofia.bg Address: 1504-Sofia, 15 Tsar Osvoboditel Blvd Building: Rectorate Room: 214 http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Bulgarian-travel-market-through-the-eyes-of-a-pro/62/162 Destinations August is a month when things generally, well – they stopped. Cars were few and far between; businesses as well as government simply shut down for the month and the streets and shops had a noticeable absence of people. August was “the holiday month”. How things change in such a short space of time: cars are a bit thinner on the ground admittedly but the traffic can still be unbearable at peak times; businesses remain open as they have understood they cannot afford to simply close for the month, whilst the streets and shops, though quieter than normal, still see reasonable amounts of footfall. All this just goes to show that things are most definitely changing not just in the capital of Sofia but also in the country as a whole. People are not going to their traditional haunts on the Black Sea in August as they invariably can’t find suitable accommodation when they want it, or at least accommodation at prices local holidaymakers have become accustomed to. Hotels and apartments are being largely contracted by the big international Tour Operators for sale across their European network. Additionally many of the newly built hotels and apartments need to charge international prices to repay loans taken to build them. These in turn put them out of the budgetary reach of many local holidaymakers. Roll all these facts together and throw them into the melting pot and one can therefore see why holidays are now taken across the whole of the summer months and not just August. One can see why there has been such a proliferation of outgoing charter flights and package holidays to the likes of Spain and Tunis and one can see just why Bulgarian cars pour through the border crossings to Greece and Turkey during summer – its different and invariably its cheaper! Just as things are changing locally they are also likely to soon start changing nationally. In June Bulgaria signed the European Open Skies Agreement, which once ratified (probably between October and January) will effectively throw open the doors of Bulgarian air space to any airline registered in an EU country and wanting to fly here. Once the flood of new flights starts, it will continue as swiftly as one has seen across many other European countries. Already speculation is rife about who will and who will not be starting flights to Bulgaria, but an educated guess of potential entrants would immediately bring forth the names of Air Berlin , EasyJet and Ryanair. The latter names being of the ‘new breed’ of airline companies of which Wizz and SkyEurope have already trail blazed the path into Bulgaria. In expectation of these moves in the aviation world, airlines currently servicing Bulgaria are already gearing themselves up in an attempt to steal a march on future new entrants but in so doing may actually be making it easier for the newcomers when they do arrive. Most airline prices are now much cheaper than they were 5 years ago, even when adding the questionable taxes they add on, more airlines and flying more often to Bulgaria and the winner is the traveller who is able to take advantage of the competition between the airlines and travel cheaper. He or she also has considerably more options where to fly from after Malev Hungarian Airlines pioneered schedule flights to Europe from the Black Sea port of Varna and which now also sees the likes of Austrian Airlines, British Airways (BA) and Bulgaria Air operating regular flights. Likewise the country’s busiest airport Bourgas (yes, Bourgas) also now sees regular schedule flights with Bulgaria Air and Austrian Airlines. More flights, more airlines, more choice and cheaper flights is the bottom line. Expect the fares to tumble even more soon. BA, though, and Bulgaria Air almost certainly have one eye on ahead when they know serious competition will arrive. Building a market and building a market share (at whatever cost) may very well be the name of the game and if you hold market share its always harder for the new starts to steal it from you. Finally, one side issue that may arise with the possibility of all the extra flights arriving here is where will they land. Sofia Airport has a new terminal which will be able to handle roughly 50% more capacity than it does at present. The authorities also plan to keep using the old terminal and run the two side by side and it’s possible that the ‘Low Cost’ and Charter airlines will pay a reduced landing fee to use the old facility, whilst traditional airlines will be ‘encouraged ’ to use the new terminal. It does sound bizarre though that rather than use one terminal efficiently you would use two partially! The Black Sea Airports operates at breaking point and Fraport/BM Star, which has been given the concession to run the two airports, started modernising and enlarging the airport terminals. So what about other airports? Well, quite simply there is no ready answer but if you look at countries like Belgium and Italy where the low cost carriers fly to, they are not adverse in using so called secondary airports. Potential entrepreneurs could redevelop an airstrip to basic standards and entice airlines by effectively paying for them to land! The EU forbids governments from doing this but not private enterprises! So how about Plovdiv Airport (same as Frankfurt Hahn or Milan Bergamo) or what about the former airports at Rousse and Gorna Oriachovitsa (which still handles cargo flights) as potential landing points. Or what if the Black Sea resorts built their own airport rather like Bansko is talking of doing. Now that would liven things up. As many long-term expat will tell you, yes things are most definitely changing. http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Plovdiv-living-guide/75/1391 Plovdiv Let it slip into a conversation that you live in Plovdiv and the first comment you’ll generally hear would be something like “Plovdiv… lucky you!” And what is it about Plovdiv that everyone in Bulgaria seems to know and be secretly envious of? Its warm, temperate climate? Its charming old town? Its laid-back, yet sophisticated townspeople? Its vibrant art and culture scene? Located on the banks of the Maritsa River about 150km southeast of Sofia, Plovdiv is Bulgaria’s second largest city, with a population of about 350 000. It draws both international and domestic visitors to its old town, international fair (the largest in the Balkans) and summer arts festivals. Fear not, for you’ll never be short of activities with which to fill your calendar in this city. What to see in PlovdivNo doubt that an expat’s first months in a new country will be spent in tourist mode. For newcomers to Plovdiv, that means that on your first day in town, you’ll be shown to the old town by any self-respecting Plovdivian. Not only that, you’ll be taken straight to Plovdiv’s Roman amphitheatre, which graces about 75 per cent of Plovdiv’s postcards. The other 25 per cent show Bulgarian national revival-era houses from the 18th to 19th centuries, of which you’ll also see many in Plovdiv’s old town. The city now known as Plovdiv was once called Trimontium, or Town of Three Hills, by the Romans in the first century CE. So, one of your duties as a resident is to pay pilgrimage by attempting to discover all three hills in the old town. Another attraction located on a hill (one of seven around which Plovdiv has developed over the centuries) great for weekend strolls is the Hill of the Liberators, on which stands a statue of a Russian soldier fondly referred to as Alyosha by Plovdivians. You can begin your walk up to Alyosha from the park at the intersection of Russki Bul and Petko Todorov Str. When you get to the top, strike up a conversation with a local and ask about the not-so-distant clamour over replacing Alyosha with a Coca-Cola billboard. Another attraction sure to please in Plovdiv is the Ethnographic Museum (2 Dr Chomakov Str; 032/ 225 656; Tues-Sun 9am-noon, 2pm-5pm, closed Mon and Fri mornings), located in the Argir Koyumdzioglou House (another postcard favourite) in old town. Check out costumes, crafts, artwork and other artifacts of traditional Bulgarian life. If antiquity is not your cup of tea and you prefer things more modern, try the Centre for Contemporary Art located in the ancient Turkish baths at the intersection of Shesti Septemvri Buk. and Tsar Boris III Obedinitel Str. Fans of Turkish aesthetic will appreciate the superb condition in which this banya has been preserved, and also the chance to glimpse what the inside of a traditional bath looked like with its outer and inner chambers. What’s more, you’ll be treated to exhibitions of photography or other media assembled by artists-in-residence. Check their website for coming exhibitions and events. Art fans will find plenty of galleries both in and out of old town for many afternoons of wandering. Expat life in PlovdivMost people planning on moving to Bulgaria have a hard time imagining what daily life might look or feel like. Before I moved here, my contact in Plovdiv informed me that everything I need would be available in Plovdiv. As soon as I moved here, I couldn’t agree more with how right she was. General activitiesFinding out what’s on at the International Plovdiv Fair (37 Tsar Boris III Obedinitel Str, 032/ 553 120) is never difficult, just look at the huge sign out front announcing the current fair. Throughout the year, the public can attend any number of events held here and spend a great day trolling for free samples, making business connections or practicing conversational French/German/Japanese/Mandarin with foreign visitors. Aside from the two large technology and consumer goods trade shows held in May and September, some of the fairs held throughout the year include: Education Fair in March, Vinaria wine fair in April, Kids Fairyland in October, Roma World in November, Christmas Fair in December and dog shows in March and November. Beginning where Knyaz Aleksandur intersects with Gladstone Str., Tsar Simeon Garden is the central park of Plovdiv. On any given gorgeous day in Plovdiv, you’ll find it packed to the brim with those anxious to enjoy the great outdoors. Friends and families crowd the park’s benches as everyone ogles at all the darling babies on parade. Over by the musical fountain, packs of teenagers hang out while couples attempt to get away from the crowds under a private tree. Shopping And while half of the city is taking pleasure in Tsar Simeon Garden’s lush environment, the other half is out getting retail therapy on Knyaz Aleksandur, Plovdiv’s main drag for those wanting to see and be seen. From designer gear to discount edin lev stores (those from the States will recognise these as the equivalent of dollar stores) and everything in between, there is plenty for everyone on this pedestrian-only street mall that stretches from the Maritsa to the Central Square where Tsar Simeon Garden begins. Hardcore shoppers will find endless windows to gaze at and doors to step in. Those of us less physically able need not worry, though. Knyaz Aleksandur is lined with cafés and dessert shops (sladkarnitsa) ready to amp up your blood sugar level when fatigue from shopping sets in. Oh, and while people watching at the many cafés at high traffic parts of the drag, don’t forget the requisite sunglasses to lower your sleaze factor and increase your cool factor. When you’re finished exploring Old Town, there’s more fun to be had downhill in the neighbourhood known as Kapana, or the Trap, a maze of orderless and narrow streets seemingly designed to ensnare. Don’t lose your cool if you can’t find your way out of this tiny neighbourhood of crooked streets. Simply embrace the mystery of the unknown and take your time peeking into stores peddling fashion, books, crafts, jewelry, electronics. One of my favourite finds in Kapana was the Chaenata Kushta, or The Tea House (10 Abadzhiiska Str; 032/ 635 589), where you can browse an endless selection of loose-leaf teas from China, Japan and other faraway places. Be kind and the gracious owner might brew you a hot cup of her wares. Ivan Vazov Str has unofficially been dubbed Shoe Street by certain residents of Plovdiv. You’ve got a new summer dress for which you need a pair of playful sandals? Hankering for a new pair of metallic boots for the coming winter? Look no further. Head directly to Ivan Vazov Str, where you’ll find block after block of shoes in stores big and small. Don’t be surprised if you see some cut-price shoes in these stores looking suspiciously similar to brand-name versions you might recognise. The outskirts of Plovdiv is home to a few shoe factories that manufacture for some of these labels. Stela Magasin (18 Gladstone Str; Mon-Fri 10.30am-7pm, Sat 10.30am-5pm) is a Soho-style boutique of funky women’s wear. Those looking to steer clear of local fashion trends can gear up at Stela’s to declare your own statement of fashion autonomy. Some of the pieces at Stela Magasin are one-of-a-kind finds, designed and made by store owner Stela herself. Her purses are also uniquely designed and handmade by Stela’s friend. Come here when you’re tired of looking like all the other girls at the disco or just to support a local artist/fashion designer. Expats living in Plovdiv cannot subsist on clothes and shoes alone, so when you’re ready to make use of that kitchen in your flat, consider these options for nourishment. Southern Bulgaria is blessed with the kind of climate that yields fresh produce year-round and most locals head to open-air produce markets, or pazars, on a weekly, sometimes daily, basis. In Plovdiv, the biggest pazar is the Thursday Market located on Shesti Septemvri Str near where it meets Russki Bul. It’s open seven days a week (not just Thursday!). Expats will learn much from the patient vendor-teachers there about Bulgarian vegetable names or even recipe ideas. Local neighbourhood stores can provide much of the other food and household items you’ll need. Beware though that items are usually placed behind the counter, so brush up on your Bulgarian vocabulary before shopping. Or, if you prefer to fondle your packages and examine jar labels before purchasing, Billa (122 Shesti Septemvri Str, 032/ 658 120; 2 Macedonia Bul, 032/ 657 010), Metro (135 Sankt Peterburg Bul, 032/ 605 103), and Sany (56 Kapitan Raicho Str, 032/ 682 171) are three hypermarkets (or, supermarkets kicked into turbo gear à la Walmart and Carrefour) serving the Plovdiv area. They are stocked to capacity with local and foreign goods and can provide a one-stop shopping alternative. Health and fitnessHaving all the kebapche and dyuner your heart desires is fine under winter layers, but when spring rolls around and fantasies fill your mind of a trim you prancing around the Black Sea coast, it’s time to hit the gym. Lucky for Plovdiv’s expats, there is Total Sport Fitness Club (13 Exarch Yosif Str, 032/ 625 151, 7am-10pm). This place really serves up a “total” fitness package complete with cardiovascular exercise machines, free weights and weight machines, group fitness classes (pilates, yoga, spinning, aerobics), massage and tanning facilities, and a health drink bar. Yogi expats will also be glad to know that Plovdiv houses at least six yoga studios around town, all of which list contact information in Programata, a free entertainment guide found in many Plovdiv establishments (also online at www.programata.bg). Entertainment and nightlifeFilm buffs need not worry that they’ll be cut off from their supply of Hollywood blockbusters. Plovdiv is home to two movie theaters: Lucky Cinema (1 Gladstone Str, 032/ 629 070) and Flamingo Cinema (128 Shesti Septemvri Str, 032/ 644 004). Both theaters regularly change their films and show a fair share of foreign cinema from the West as well as the East. And twice a year, Lucky Cinema participates in film festivals with other theaters in Bulgaria, each time showing nearly two weeks of the best of recent Bulgarian, European, Asian and American cinema. Infinity Dance Club (4 Bratya Polievi Str, 088/ 828 14 31; Tues-Sat 11am-6pm) is the oldie but goodie of Plovdiv clubs. While its nondescript exterior along with its Egyptian-motif interior doesn’t exactly scream 2007, the place is still packed on a weekly basis. If you’re looking to celebrate holidays or other major student events at Infinity, arrive early to ensure there is a space for you on the dance floor. Retro parties on Fridays. Marmalade Bar and Restaurant (3 Bratya Polievi Str, 032/ 631 834; Sun-Tues 9am-1am, Wed-Thu 9am-2am, Fri-Sat 9am-4am), directly across from Infinity, is its cooler younger sibling, with sleeker décor and varied attractions throughout the week to cater to varied crowds. Cough up one lev for Tuesday’s disco party nights, and three leva for Friday and Saturday’s DJ nights. Aspiring divos and divas can light up the stage on Wednesday’s karaoke night, and live music junkies need look no further to get their fix every Thursday night at Marmalade. Exit Discotheque (122 Maritsa Bul; 10.30pm-sunrise?) is a gathering place for folks from all walks of life who have one common characteristic: a commitment to partying the night away. Perched on the southern bank of the Maritsa, Exit’s an unassuming club that might not even draw a second glance in the daytime. But you’ll want to hit Retro Wednesday nights at Exit at least once while you’re in Plovdiv. Regardless of age, all goers sing along to songs from the last three decades and before you know it, you, too, might jump up onto the bar to sing and dance along with the boys of Exit as they wow you with their YMCA number! Where to eat in PlovdivAromatno Restaurant (10 Tsar Assen Str, 032/ 632 845; 8am-11pm) is a solid go-to eatery when you’re in the mood for no-frills but consistently delicious Balkan fare. It’s a small restaurant, so call ahead if you’re bringing your whole office (and by the way, it’s a nice-sized venue for office parties of 20 to 30 people). You’ll find your standard grilled goodies and salads along with a few other traditional Bulgarian dishes and an extensive wine and rakiya menu to boot. Chevermeto (15 Otets Paisii Str, 032/632 845; 11am – 12:30am), a restaurant serving up fine Rhodope and national Bulgarian cuisine, is perfect for entertaining out-of-town clients, ie, best when you’re not footing the bill and can go all out on the roast lamb on a spit (for which this establishment is named). The ambiance at this restaurant is top-class so leave the sweaty t-shirts and baseball caps at home. In the winter, a roaring fire in the centre of the restaurant does double-duty as the restaurant’s heater as well as lamb roaster. Mr. Pizza and Thai Express (14A Tsar Ivan Aleksander Str, 032/ 637 575; 11am-1am) has one dish that has me going back again and again – the coconut curry chicken. It doesn’t really remind my taste buds of fantastic green curries at favourite Thai eateries back home, but the coconut milk-based sauce definitely satisfies when I’m craving non-Balkan cuisine. And what luck that they’ll deliver my curry right to my door, too! Verdi Pizzeria (8 Otets Paisii Str, 19 Naiden Gerov Str; 032/ 9171 for delivery; 11.30am-11:30pm) is my favourite spot for pizza, salads and other finger foods. Choose from two different types of crust and even watch as they make your pizza. You can get an arugula salad with fresh parmesan cheese all year round and the mavrud is always poured from a freshly opened bottle. And I must mention that the corn flake-breaded chicken strips or cheese make a heavenly snack or appetiser! Verdi has one operation on Otets Paisii among a row of plastic tent restaurants behind Knyaz Aleksandur where it meets the mosque on Suborna Street. But I prefer the restaurant on Nayden Gerov, a quiet street between Plovdiv’s TV station and Tsar Simeon Garden. This location is much cosier and in warm weather, its outdoor seating opens onto a nice quiet street sans plastic tent. Located in the Trap, Killer (3 Zlatibor Str, Mon-Sat 8am-11pm) is worth the search, for it makes the best dyuner, according to local experts in the art of fast-food dining (ie, university students). Killer’s dyuners are authentically Arabic and each dyuner comes packed with chicken or beef, cabbage, onions and potatoes in your choice of a pita wrap or bread. The good folks here don’t try to make up for a small quantity of meat with an overdose of potatoes as other dyuner purveyors have been known to do. Head to Djumayata (2 Zhelezarska Str, 032/ 631 402; 7am-10pm) for the best banitsas and widest selection of baklava in Plovdiv. Not many places in Bulgaria offer coffee and seating to go along with your morning banitsa, so while you won’t find a brunch spread on offer here, Djumayata is a Sunday morning favourite. Or any morning favourite at that. And if morning is too early for you, this place is open all day. Brits can have afternoon tea here and desserts can be had by all at any time of day when a dose of sugar is needed. Look for the minaret near Phillip the Second of Macedonia’s fountain on Knyaz Aleksandur; Dzumayata is the café, or Oriental Dessert Shop as its sign announces, located on the ground floor of the mosque. Expat scene in PlovdivThe English Club of Plovdiv meets every Wednesday at 7pm for dinner at Union Restaurant (6 Mitropolit Paisii Str, 088/ 975 36 72; 11am-midnight) in Old Town. Rozenhoff Belgian Beer Café (36 Hristo Danov Str, 088/ 605 59 55; 9am-midnight) is the place to go for a wide selection of beers from not just Belgium, but also Holland, Australia, Croatia, Luxembourg, just to name a few. The establishment attracts a good mix of locals and foreigners appreciative of said beers, and the extensive menu gives even non-beer drinkers a reason to check out what all the hype at Rozenhoff is about. To satisfy your fetish for all things Latino, Casa de Cuba (118 Vassil Aprilov Bul, 032/ 649 604) is Plovdiv’s offering. The cocktails and rhythms here will transport you to lazy days in Havana. Salseros and salseras blowing into town should stop here to find out the latest on Plovdiv’s Latin dance scene. Planet Club (5 Ivan Andonov Str, 032/ 643 221; 9am-2am) is rumoured to be a hangout of certain exclusive organisations whose participants drive fancy black cars, but this place deserves mention for its wireless internet access. Don’t bring your laptop when you’re rushing to meet a deadline, though, because you never know when the thumping techno music will begin for the night. There is both indoor and outdoor seating and you’ll find more drink than food on its oversized menu. Surrounding areasPlovdiv’s location at the foot of Bulgaria’s Rhodope Mountains makes it a perfect base for planning your mountain excursion. Whether you’re a skier heading to Pamporovo mountain resort, southern Bulgaria’s most popular, or a nature enthusiast heading out to see the Smolyan Lakes, both places are nearly 100km south of Plovdiv proper and are easily accessible from Rhodope Bus Station (Macedonia Street, 032/ 697 607). Bachkovo Monastery is where Plovdivians head when they want to retreat from the “city” and breathe in some fresh Rhodope air. You’ll also find frescoes, icons and a small museum here. Twenty-nine km south of Plovdiv, a trip to Bachkovo can easily be completed in a day, with buses leaving every hour from Rhodope Bus Station. Assenovgrad, the most popular purveyor of mavrud, a Bulgarian native wine grape favourite, is also a town 19km southeast of Plovdiv. While we’re not sure that the winery offers wine tasting to the public, we know that the town boasts some churches, monasteries and even a fortress on a rocky limestone hill 130m above the town. Buses to Asenovgrad depart from the Rhodope station every 30 minutes. Hissarya is spa town 42km north of Plovdiv at the foothills of the Sredna Gora Mountains. In existence as a mineral bath resort since the first century BCE, the mineral water from this town is said to have curative effects on gastrointestinal, kidney and liver diseases. I suggest you don’t wait until a visit from these diseases before heading to Hissarya to indulge in some heavy duty relaxation at any one of the town’s spa centres. For buses to Hissarya, you’ll have to go to Plovdiv’s northern (Sever) bus station (2 Dimitar Stambolov Str, 032/ 953 705). Where to stay in PlovdivNot listed on any of Bulgaria’s hotel websites, Hotel-Bar Central (7 Konstantin Stoilov Str, 032/ 622 348) is a gem of a find and will help you score big with your out-of-town guests! In a great location just next to Djumayata at the foot of old town, this hotel looks and feels every bit as swanky on the inside as it does on the outside, without the swanky price tag. Book ahead because there are only four rooms, each large and with its own colour scheme. The penthouse unit even has a terrace for you to look out on the Kapana and the Old Town. Rooms are a steal at 60 leva a night. Alliance Hotel (7 Vassil Aprilov Str, 032/ 646 333) is convenient because of its location near the train and bus stations of Plovdiv. Rooms are clean with all the basic amenities including breakfast and a friendly front desk. There’s a decent restaurant downstairs and in case you don’t want to walk too far for a little disco action, the Nai Club is just a stone’s throw away at 13 Vassil Aprilov. Rooms at the Alliance start from 80 leva a night. By Sunnia Ko http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Sofia-in-numbers/26/171 Useful Numbers Learn more about Bulgaria's capital in numbers.   Sofia has: 1 Palace of culture, mosque, synagogue, airport and zoo 2 Historical bridges– Eagle's Bridge and Lion's Bridge. Sofia also has two TV towers 3 International transport corridors passing through the city 5 Mountains surrounding the city: Vitosha, Lyulin, Plana, Lozenska and Stara Planina 6 Swimming pool complexes 7 Railway stations 11 Daily newspapers 14 Orthodox monasteries surrounding the capital 16 Universities 17 September 17 is Sofia's official holiday 20 Five-star hotels 28 Specialised hospitals 29 Museums 31 Cinemas 33 Districts 37 Art galleries 70 Per cent average air humidity 86  Tour-operators 195  Traffic lights 297  Schools 910  People per km sq average population density  1 800  Registered dentists  1 900  Car accidents happening each year 2 150  Bars and cafes 2 290  Metres is the height of Vitosha Mountain's Cherni Vruh Peak 2 700 km of roads 2 800  Years is the age of the city Sofia  6 100 Registered doctors  98 000 University students  485 000 Homes  570 000 Men  630 000  Women  1200000  Citizens  1300000  Citizens, tourists, guests and visitors http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Detox-and-slimming-clinics/53/172 Beauty Bulgaria features a number of weight loss centres, usually located in resort areas and offering nutrition programmes and exercise, aimed at guaranteeing weight loss and the creation of proper feeding habits.   Health Feeding Centres Address Telephone E-maill Web Site DIELI Hotel Paris, Blachik 02/ 856 51 48 info@diely.com www.diely.com  VitaMores St. Vlas 0554 / 68 522 info@vitamores.com   www.vitamores.com     Weight Loss Centres Address Telephone E-mail Web Site Korteks 77 Hristo Silianov Str, Polyclinic, Nadezhda district 02/ 936 09 23 brain@kortex-bg.com www.kortex-bg.com   Med. Centre Dr. Emilova Rila Hotel, Borovets 052/ 902 622 info@emilova.org   www.emilova.org   Ralis 75 Vladaiska Str, Sofia 02/ 953 30 08 stella7809@abv.bg   www.rallis.hit.bg   Spa Studio Sabina 1 Stara Planina Str, Sofia 02/ 983 66 33     Bio check 31 Eksarh Yosif Blvd, 1000 Sofia 02/ 911 83 biocheck@mail.bg     Happy Life Druzhba Hotel, 2 km nothwest of Haskovo 0888/ 200 445 happylife-kenana@abv.bg   www.happylife-kenana.com   http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Taxi-companies/65/173 Transportation     Location Company Name Telephone Bourgas Sunny Tours 056/ 145 Bourgas Ok Taxi 056/ 153 Bourgas New Chance Taxi 056/ 155 Bourgas Briz Taxi 056/ 141 Dobritch Tommy Taxi 058/ 878 Dobritch President Taxi 058/ 178 Dobritch Dobritch Taxi 058/ 171 Plovdiv First Private Radio Taxi 032/ 66 55 Plovdiv Atlantik 032 / 61 61 Plovdiv Milenium 032/ 91 99 Plovdiv Inter 032/ 91 66 Plovdiv Elma Ltd. 032 / 66 65 Plovdiv Biga 032/ 91 98 Plovdiv Day & Night 032 / 61 19 Plovdiv Express 032 / 66 00 Plovdiv VIP 032 / 61 03; 032/ 61 04 Plovdiv Gusto Taxi 032 / 99 99 Plovdiv Start 032/ 66 10 Plovdiv Taxi 1 032/ 61 42 Plovdiv Korona 032 / 61 62; 032/ 61 82 Plovdiv Lider 032/ 61 43 Plovdiv Tors Taxi 032/ 61 24 Plovdiv Mega Trans 032 / 66 62 Shoumen Forte Taxi 054/ 40 060 Shoumen Milbo Taxi 054/ 55 544 Shoumen DEU Taxi 054/ 55 141 Sofia Euro Taxi 02/ 9 10 33 Sofia OK Supertrans Taxi 02/ 973 21 21 Sofia Sof Taxi 02/ 983 60 06 Sofia 1 EURO Taxi 02/ 962 22 26 Sofia TAXI-s-Express 02/ 9 12 80 Sofia S.M. Taxi 02/ 974 47 44 Sofia Radio CV Taxi 02/ 9 12 63 Sofia Elite Taxi 02/ 9 19 55 Sofia One Dollar Taxi 02/ 973 37 33 Sofia Intest Taxi 02/ 318 043 Sofia Inex Taxi 02/ 91 919 Sofia Blitz Taxi 02/ 91 891 Sofia Rikars Taxi 02/ 91 114 Sofia Omega Trans Taxi 02/ 91 142 Sofia Kristal Legal 02/ 955 79 59 Sofia Auto Bil 02/ 974 50 05 Sofia YES Taxi 02/ 91 009 Sofia Yellow Taxi 02/ 962 13 33 Sofia Taxi Company 02/ 9 11 66 Varna Start Taxi 052/ 682 114 Varna Garant Taxi 052/ 388 101 Varna Stil Taxi 052/ 682 121 Varna Moment Taxi 052/ 682 101 Veliko Turnovo Inter Taxi 062/ 30 029; 062/ 630 029 Veliko Turnovo Top City 0888/ 42 03 00 Veliko Turnovo Trans Taxi 062/ 681 140; 062/ 681 150 http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Going-native/47/211 Overview We did it. We bought a derelict property in north Bulgaria over the internet from our council maisonette in Sheffield. Everyone thinks we are crazy, but at 3,900 Euros, and the cost of setting up the company ‘Maketree’ and the agent’s costs, we have spent under £5,000. Compared to purchasing a property here in England we are feeling fairly smug. With flights by Whizz Air, all five of us arrived in Sofia in the middle of the night, and landed on our friend’s doorstep. That’s Carl, Myself (Sharon), Rowan (13), Madeline (10) and Lisa (5), with not a word of Bulgarian between us. After spending the Sunday acclimatising, and purchasing the essential large bucket, we set off in our hire car towards Ruse. The roads could do with some attention, you need a donkey lane, and many motorists need a greater will to live. When we arrived in Ostritsa, we were unable to find the house, the village being much larger than Carl remembered. Fortunately, the bar was open, and we were shown to the property, the key fitted the gate to everyone’s relief. Staying in the village was like falling off the map and going back in time. There were none of the comforts we take for granted now except two electric light bulbs. The water supply was a tap in the garden, but no hot water. The toilet reminded me of holidays in France as a child, but you soon got used to it. It took the children a little while to adjust to the idea, but needs must in the end. First impressions were delightful. A sweet little house in a pretty rural village, with a grazing donkey and happy chickens outside the door. The neighbours were naturally curious and came out to talk to us. It did not take too long to realise that we had no Bulgarian and they had no English, so communicating was not easy. We were reduced to a few phrases from the guide books and gesticulations. Our neighbour gave up talking and took Carl to the shop and made them open for him so we had drinking water and bread the first night. In the little shop round the corner I played charades on a regular basis to indicate what I wanted, which made everyone laugh, especially the topsy turvey head nodding and shaking thing which was very very difficult. Our youngest, Lisa, received more attention than she was comfortable with. Being five years old and very blonde, everyone wanted to touch her. We were playing catch outside one evening and attracted a crowd of women. We had quite a conversation about the children and how we bought the house. I had found some old photographs inside and they were able to show me who used to live in the house, which was interesting. In the evening a herd of sheep passed one way and a herd of goats the other. You could hear a pig, cockerels, dogs barking and at night the crickets let you know you were not in England, along with the occasional howl of a wolf or two. It was lovely being able to sit outside and watch the sunset. A few days later we piled in the car to visit the Black Coast. We had promised the children the beach, and we all needed a shower after three days in Ostritsa. It took longer than the map implies getting to Varna, arriving at tea time. The kids were straight in the sea, while Rowan and myself went off in search of accommodation. I talked a hotel into letting all five of us stay in one room for two nights. The kids were so excited; there was a toilet, air conditioning and a TV. Hoorah! It wasn’t the most comfortable hotel room, especially for five, but was in the middle of Varna. The municipal beach was heaving with people and the sand maybe golden, but it could do with raking occasionally. I even ventured into the sea for a swim for the first time in a long time as I only dip in a toe off the English coast. On returning to Ostritsa sickness gripped two of the children, so we stayed at the house for a couple of days, which was really relaxing. Trying to get about and do anything in a country where you do not speak the language can be exhausting, so existing in our own little oasis was a proper rest, except hand-washing clothes in cold water of course, as the novelty wears off very quickly. The most difficult thing was responding to the little old lady next door when she hobbled over and sat on our obligatory front bench and watched Carl painting the door frames. Before leaving, Carl made efforts to secure the house, blocking up broken windows, securing the cellar door, putting new locks and bolts on the back door and a new chain and padlock for the gate. We took loads of photographs of the house inside and out. We returned to Sofia and arrived at the Art Hostel looking for accommodation for five people, and managed to arrange an art exhibition. The following day was Madeline’s 11th birthday, and we spent a while cleaning our hire car with wet wipes and a quick polish with an old sock. It was shiny, but not exactly clean, so we were delighted to get our full deposit back! Now we are home again and planning on how to improve and modernise the house in the pretty and thriving village of Ostritsa, as it will fall down soon if nothing is done. We have to learn Bulgarian so we can communicate with a work force, and plan our next trip to deepest darkest Europe. We will be back. Sharon Gill http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Dos-and-Don'ts-of-Buying-in-Bulgaria/66/216 Step by Step Guide Dos Always use a reputable English speaking solicitor/lawyer This ensures the buyer will be secure in the knowledge that all of the necessary legal checks ensuring title to the property are carried out, that there are no debts against the property and if it is an off-plan or new property, the developer has obtained all the necessary building permissions. Visit the property/site before purchasing Although some villas, apartments and rural properties can seem extremely cheap by UK standards, it is necessary to bear in mind that the least expensive will almost certainly require work in order to bring them up to a standard that a buyer may be used to. It is therefore advised that you do not buy without having seen the property or site and plans in advance. Make an effort to find out about the area/facilities It is advisable to find out if the property or development you are interested in buying is in an area that is in high demand for or is expected to be by the time developments are completed. If it isn’t in a desirable area with good facilities and a decent road network, then it could potentially be difficult to sell on. Always read the small print of any rental guarantee scheme Rental guarantee schemes have increased over the last few years and being used as an incentive to attract buyers. Although they might look fantastic in principle, the buyer could find it is reflected in the purchase price. The buyer should ensure that the guarantee has some substance. Make price comparisons with other ‘similar’ properties This will help you get good value for money. Check the price against the square metres of usable space It is common practice for balconies, terracing and a share of common parts (including stairwells!) to be included in the price of apartments. Reputable developers/agents separate this out so that it is easy to understand and you can compare the prices with others Find out about the detail and cost of the management of your building if it is in a new development It is in your interest for the building to be well maintained. Many Bulgarian developers do not make adequate arrangements for this. Check the detail of who will be doing it and what it costs. Current annual rates are seven to 10 euro per sq m. If lower than this, it is unlikely to be done well. Check out your tax position income, capital gains and inheritance tax With imminent entry into the EU, rigorous reporting of tax authorities to EU standards will be expected. Look into the legal position of inheritance Bulgarian law on inheritance may be completely different from those in your native country so it is worth investigating your legal stance in advance. Shop around when it comes to transferring money There are now many currency transfer agents who can save you a significant amount, look for one which has a good reputation. Don’ts Expect the legal system to be the same as it is in your country, it is not There is a rigorous system, but expect the process to be different. Expect the locals to speak English Make an effort with a few Bulgarian words since English has only recently been taught as the second language in schools and in many rural areas, no English will be spoken. Sign any documentation unless translated by an accredited translator For obvious reasons, have all documentation translated. As with any country, it is wise to be aware that there are dishonest estate agents/developers out there, so always ensure you know exactly what you are signing and agreeing to. Make any rushed decisions to pay any ‘deposits’ or direct payments Some irreputable agents/developers try to impose ‘fines’ on negotiations if they do not get a deposit from a potential buyer when visiting. Always investigate the competition and at least discuss your decision in advance with a friend before making any payment. Expect your purchase to make immediate and massive gains It is likely that Bulgarian property will go up in price significantly but do not expect it to happen straight away. Use your mobile phone on visits, buy a local SIM card There are now three mobile phone operators, M-Tel, GloBul and Vivatel and one mobile phone rental provider, Intrafonica Bulgaria, also offering mobile internet delivered via GPRS, and SIM cards for hire, so you can avoid inflated roaming rates and paying for being called. Unwillingly participate in tax evasion Buyers purchasing property in Bulgaria should be aware that some unscrupulous vendors insist upon declaring a lower price in the title deeds to reduce their tax liability. Be careful here as a large number of vendors prefer to state the "tax estimation" price rather then the "selling price” since this will reduce their tax liability. Do not participate in this type of tax evasion as penalties are severe. It is therefore essential that you insist that the selling price be stated on the deeds when buying property in Bulgaria, because if you state the tax estimation price and then decide to sell the property, you will be faced with a capital gains tax liability that is larger than it would otherwise be. Forget that owning a property does not give you an automatic right to live in Bulgaria on any kind of permanent or semi-permanent basis This also applies even if you have a Bulgarian spouse. You will need to undertake application process at the local passport office once in Bulgaria to secure a residence permit. Let the first place you see be the last! It is important to ensure that you have seen enough properties/plans to form a well- rounded opinion of what is on the market to get the most out of the money you will be spending. Source: Westhill Investments http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Useful-Phrases/30/113 Useful Phrases ENGLISH PHRASE BULGARIAN PHRASE IN CYRILLIC Greetings Pozdravi Ïîçäðàâè Hello Zdravei/Zdraveite Çäðàâåé/ Çäðàâåéòå Hi Zdrasti Çäðàñòè How are you? Kak si/Kak ste (formal) Êàê ñè/ Êàê ñòå? Goodbye Dovizhdane Äîâèæäàíå Good Morning Dobro outro Äîáðî óòðî Good afternoon Dobur den Äîáúð äåí Good evening Dobur vecher Äîáúð âå÷åð Sleep well Leka nosht Ëåêà íîù Cheers Nazdrave Íàçäðàâå I am fine Dobre sum Äîáðå ñúì I am fine, thank you Dobre sum, blagodarya Äîáðå ñúì, áëàãîäàðÿ Thank you Blagodarya Áëàãîäàðÿ Questions Vuprosi Âúïðîñè Who Koi Êîé When Koga Êîãà Where Kude Êúäå What Kakvo Êàêâî Why Zashto Çàùî How Kak Êàê Basic Phrases Osnovni Frazi Îñíîâíè ôðàçè Yes Da Äà No Ne Íå I can Moga Ìîãà I can't Ne moga Íå ìîãà I want Iskam Èñêàì I don't want Ne iskam Íå èñêàì I need Nuzhdaiya se/tryabva mi Íóæäàÿ ñå/òðÿáâà ìè I don't need Ne se nuzhdaiya/ne mi tryabva Íå ñå íóæäàÿ/íå ìè òðÿáâà I am Az sum Àç ñúì I am not Az ne sum Àç íå ñúì You are Ti si Òè ñè Thank you Blagodarya Áëàãîäàðÿ You are welcome Molya Ìîëÿ I understand Razbiram Ðàçáèðàì I do not understand Ne razbiram Íå ðàçáèðàì I speak Govorya Ãîâîðÿ I speak only English Govorya samo angliiski Ãîâîðÿ ñàìî àíãëèéñêè I do not speak Bulgarian Ne govorya bulgarski Íå ãîâîðÿ áúëãàðñêè Do you speak English/French/German/Spanish? Govorite li angliiski/frenski/nemski/ispanski? Ãîâîðèòå ëè àíãëèéñêè/ôðåíñêè/íåìñêè/èñïàíñêè? Restaurants Restoranti Ðåñòîðàíòè Restaurant Restorant Ðåñòîðàíò Pub Birariya Áèðàðèÿ Pizza place Pitsariya Ïèöàðèÿ Fast food Burzo hranene Áúðçî õðàíåíå I want to reserve a table for 2,3,4,5 Iskam da rezerviram masa za dvama, trima, chetirima, petima Èñêàì äà ðåçåðâèðàì ìàñà çà äâàìà, òðèìà, ÷åòèðèìà, ïåòèìà Can I have the menu Mozhe li menyuto? Ìîæå ëè ìåíþòî? What would you recommend? Kakvo shte mi preporuchate? Êàêâî ùå ìè ïðåïîðú÷àòå? Appetizer Predyastie Ïðåäÿñòèå Soup Soupa Ñóïà Main dish Osnovno yastie Îñíîâíî ÿñòèå Desert Dessert Äåñåðò Drink Napitka Íàïèòêà Knife Nozh Íîæ Fork Vilitsa Âèëèöà Spoon Luzhitsa Ëúæèöà Plate Chinia ×èíèÿ Napkin Salfetka Ñàëôåòêà I would like Iskam Èñêàì Water Voda Âîäà Soft Drink Bezalkoholna napitka Áåçàëêîõîëíà íàïèòêà Juice Sok Ñîê Beer Bira Áèðà Red (white) wine Cherveno (byalo) vino ×åðâåíî (áÿëî) âèíî Salt Sol Ñîë Pepper Piper Ïèïåð Vinegar Otset Îöåò Sugar Zahar Çàõàð Coffee Kafe Êàôå Tea Chai ×àé Bread Hlyab Õëÿá Chicken Pileshko Ïèëåøêî Beef Teleshko Òåëåøêî Pork Svinsko Ñâèíñêî Fish Riba Ðèáà Fried potatoes Purzheni kartofi Ïúðæåíè êàðòîôè Salad Salata Ñàëàòà Green salad Zelena salata Çåëåíà ñàëàòà Tomatoes Domati Äîìàòè Cucumbers Krastavitsi Êðàñòàâèöè Crepe Palachinka Ïàëà÷èíêà Cake Torta Òîðòà Ice cream Sladoled Ñëàäîëåä Fruit Plod Ïëîä The bill Smetkata Ñìåòêàòà Shopping Pazarouvane Ïàçàðóâàíå Shop Magazine Ìàãàçèí Price Tsena Öåíà Money Pari Ïàðè How much does it cost? Kolko strouva? Êîëêî ñòðóâà? Can I have? Iskam Èñêàì May I try it on? Mozhe li da probvam? Ìîæå ëè äà ïðîáâàì? Do you have this size? Imate li tozi razmer? Èìàòå ëè òîçè ðàçìåð? Do you have different color? Imate li droug tsvyat? Èìàòè ëè äðóã öâÿò? Black, white, red, blue, green, yellow, orange Cherno, byalo, cherveno, sinyo, zeleno, zhulto, oranzhevo ×åðíî, áÿëî, ÷åðâåíî, ñèíüî, çåëåíî, æúëòî, îðàíæåâî Expensive Skupo Ñêúïî Cheap Evtino Åâòèíî Do you sell X? Prodavate li X? Ïðîäàâàòå ëè Õ? Food Hrana Õðàíà Clothes Drehi Äðåõè Shoes Obouvki Îáóâêè Medicines Lekarstva Ëåêàðñòâà Newspapers/magazines Vestnitsi/ spisaniya Âåñòíèöè, ñïèñàíèÿ Cigarettes Tsigari Öèãàðè Shirt Riza Ðèçà T-shirt Blouza Áëóçà Pants Pantaloni Ïàíòàëîíè Jeans Dunki Äúíêè Skirt Pola Ïîëà Dress Roklya Ðîêëÿ Underwear Belyo Áåëüî Swim suit Banski Áàíñêè Pharmacy Apteka Àïòåêà Market Pazar Ïàçàð Cosmetics Kozmetika Êîçìåòèêà Need Help Nouzhda ot pomosht Íóæäà îò ïîìîù Can you please help me? Mozhete li da mi pomognete? Ìîæåòå ëè äà ïîìîãíåòå? Can you call an ambulance/the police Mozhete li da povikate lineika/politsiya? Ìîæåòå ëè äà ïîâèêàòå ëèíåéêà/ïîëèöèÿ? I don't feel well Ne se chouvstvam dobre Íå ñå ÷óâñòâàì äîáðå I feel sick Chouvstvam se zle ×óâñòâàì ñå çëå Medicines Lekarstva Ëåêàðñòâà Doctor Lekar Ëåêàð Nurse Sestra Ñåñòðà Dentist Zubolekar Çúáîëåêàð I need a doctor Nouzhdaya se ot lekar Íóæäàÿ ñå îò ëåêàð I have a headache, toothache Boli me glava/boli me zub Áîëè ìå ãëàâà, áîëè ìå çúá Flu Grip Ãðèï Cold Nastinka Íàñòèíêà I have sore throat Boli me gurlo Áîëè ìå ãúðëî Holidays and celebrations Pochivka i praznitsi Ïî÷èâêà è ïðàçíèöè Saturday Subota Ñúáîòà Sunday Nedelya Íåäåëÿ Vacation Vakantsiya Âàêàíöèÿ Day off Pochiven den Ïî÷èâåí äåí Easter Velikden Âåëèêäåí Christmas Koleda Êîëåäà Merry Christmas! Vesela Koleda! Âåñåëà Êîëåäà! Happy new year! Chestita nova godina! ×åñòèòà íîâà ãîäèíà! Happy birthday! Chestit rozhden den ×åñòèò ðîæäåí äåí Congratulations Chestito ×åñòèòî Wedding Svatba Ñâàòáà Party Parti/koupon Ïàðòè/êóïîí Anniversary Godishnina Ãîäèøíèíà Introductions and meeting people Zapoznanstva i sreshti s hora Çàïîçíàíñòâà è ñðåùè ñ õîðà       My name is Kazvam se Êàçâàì ñå Hello, I am... Zdravei, az sum Çäðàâåé, àç ñúì .... What is your name? Kak se kazvash/kazvate (formal)? Êàê ñå êàçâàø/êàçâàòå Nice to meet you Pryatno mi e Ïðèÿòíî ìè å Where are you from Ot kude si? Îò êúäå ñè? How old are you? Na kolko godini si? (familiar) Íà êîëêî ãîäèíè ñè? I am 20, 30, 40, 50 years old Az sum na dvadeset, trideset, chetirideset, petdeset... Àç ñúì íà äâàäåñåò, òðèäåñåò, ÷åòèðèäåñåò, ïåòäåñåò ãîäèíè Friend Priyatel/priyatelka (for a woman) Ïðèÿòåë/ Ïðèÿòåëêà Girlfriend/boyfriend Gadje (priyatel/priyatelka) Ãàäæå/ (ïðèÿòåë/ïðèÿòåëêà) Husband Suproug Ñúïðóã Wife Suprouga Ñúïðóãà Brother/sister Brat/sestra Áðàò/ ñåñòðà Cousin Bratovched Áðàòîâ÷åä I work in Rabotya v Ðàáîòÿ â Where do you work? Kude rabotish/rabotite (formal)? Êúäå ðàáîòèø/ðàáîòèòå? Would you like to meet again? Iskate li da se vidim otnovo? (formal) Èñêàòå ëè äà ñå âèäèì îòíîâî? Will I see you again? Shte mozhe li da vi vidya otnovo? (formal) Ùå ìîæå ëè äà Âè âèäÿ îòíîâî? Can I have your phone number? Mozhe li telefona vi? (formal) Ìîæå ëè òåëåôîíà Âè? I'd like to see you again Iskam da vi vidya otnovo (formal) Èñêàì äà Âè âèäÿ îòíîâî Nice talking to you Beshe mi priyatno Áåøå ìè ïðèÿòíî I like you Haresvash mi (familiar) Õàðåñâàì òå I love you Obicham te (familiar) Îáè÷àì òå I don't like you Ne mi haresvash (familiar) Íå ìè õàðåñâàø Leave me alone Ostavi me na mira Îñòàâè ìå íà ìèðà       Days and Months Dni i mesetsi Äíè è ìåñåöè       Monday Ponedelnik Ïîíåäåëíèê Tuesday Vtornik Âòîðíèê Wednesday Sryada Ñðÿäà Thursday Chetvurtuk ×åòâúðòúê Friday Petuk Ïåòúê Saturday Subota Ñúáîòà Sunday Nedelya Íåäåëÿ January Yanuari ßíóàðè February Fevrouari Ôåâðóàðè March Mart Ìàðò April April Àïðèë May Mai Ìàé June Yuni Þíè July Yuli Þëè August Avgoust Àâãóñò September Septemvri Ñåïòåìâðè October Oktomvri Îêòîìâðè November Noemvri Íîåìâðè December Dekemvri Äåêåìâðè       Travel Putouvane Ïúòóâàíå       Bus Avtobous Àâòîáóñ Train Vlak Âëàê Plane Samolet Ñàìîëåò Car Kola Êîëà Ticket Bilet Áèëåò I need a ticket to Tryabva mi bilet do Òðÿáâà ìè áèëåò äî Hitch-hike Avto-stop Àâòî-ñòîï One ticket to Edin bilet do Åäèí áèëåò äî City Grad Ãðàä Village Selo Ñåëî Mountain Planina Ïëàíèíà Sea More Ìîðå Beach Plazh Ïëàæ       Numbers Tsifri Öèôðè       One Edno Åäíî Two Dve Äâå Three Tri Òðè Four Chetiri ×åòèðè Five Pet Ïåò Six Shest Øåñò Seven Sedem Ñåäåì Eight Osem Îñåì Nine Devet Äåâåò Ten Deset Äåñåò Eleven Edinadeset Åäèíàäåñåò Twelve Dvanadeset Äâàíàäåñåò Thirteen Trinadeset Òðèíàäåñåò Fourteen Chetirinadeset ×åòèðèíàäåñåò Fifteen Petnadeset Ïåòíàäåñåò Sixteen Shestnadeset Øåñòíàäåñåò Seventeen Sedemnadeset Ñåäåìíàäåñåò Eighteen Osemnadeset Îñåìíàäåñåò Nineteen Devetnadeset Äåâåòíàäåñåò Twenty Dvadeset Äâàäåñåò Twenty one Dvadeset i edno Äâàäåñåò è åäíî Twenty two Dvadeset i dve Äâàäåñåò è äâå Twenty three Dvadeset i tri Äâàäåñåò è òðè Twenty four Dvadeset i chetiri Äâàäåñåò è ÷åòèðè Twenty five Dvadeset i pet Äâàäåñåò è ïåò Twenty six Dvadeset i shest Äâàäåñåò è øåñò Twenty seven Dvadeset i sedem Äâàäåñåò è ñåäåì Twenty eight Dvadeset i osem Äâàäåñåò è îñåì Twenty nine Dvadeset i devet Äâàäåñåò è äåâåò Thirty Trideset Òðèäåñåò Forty Chetirideset ×åòèðèäåñåò Fifty Petdeset Ïåòäåñåò Sixty Shestdeset Øåñòäåñåò Seventy Sedemdeset Ñåäåìäåñåò Eighty Osemdeset Îñåìäåñåò Ninety Devetdeset Äåâåòäåñåò One hundred Sto Ñòî One thousand Hiliada Õèëÿäà One million Edin milion Åäèí ìèëèîí http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Language-Courses/31/1013 Language Schools Name Address Phone E-mail Web Site Educational Center Orbis 19 Mizia Str, Sofia (02) 843 83 63 orbis@abv.bg  www.orbis.hit.bg Foreign Language Center 99 Knjaz Boris I Str Sofia (02) 980 00 99  flc@nbu.bg  www.nbu.bg/cche Accent Language School 37 Bacho Kiro Str, Sofia (02) 9834 228 noaccent@abv.bg www.accentschool.hit.bg Alexander Study Centre 26 Targovska Str, Gotse Delchev (751) 60 499 alexander@classbg.com www.classbg.com Bells & Belin Language Centre 24-26 Khristo Kovachev Str, Sofia (02) 943 52 19 office@belsbelin.com www.belsbelin.com Berlitz Sofia 10 Lege Str, Sofia (02) 980 09 45 sofia@berlitz.bg www.berlitz.bg Centre Maximum 249 Al. Stambolyski Blvd, Sofia (02) 920 32 87 office@maximum-center.com www.maximum-center.com Centre Cosmos 8 Budapest Str, Sofia  (02) 981 19 19   www.kosmos-edu.com Centre Druzhba  45 Maria Luisa Blvd, Sofia (02) 983 66 77 info@drujba.org http://ec.drujba.org/ Mastylo School 13 Gen. Danail Nikolaev Str, Plovdiv  (32) 436 911 mastylo@abv.bg http://mastylo.net/   Euroalliance-Centre for Language and Professional Teaching 1 Makedonia Sq, Sofia (02) 917 05 12 office@euro-alliance.net www.euro-alliance.net  Fohel - Language and Computer Courses 115 Tsar Simeon ² Str, Burgas (56) 236 27   http://fohel.net/ Language Centre Atlas-S 1 Khristo Belchev Str, Sofia (02) 987 20 08 atlas_lc@abv.bg http://atlas-s.com/  Language Centre New Standart 21 Exarch Yosif Str, Sofia (02) 983 37 07 office@nov-standart.com http://nov-standart.com/ NordStudio 62 Gorski patnik Str, Sofia (02) 963 17 65     OLIP - Alexander Language School Raiko Daskalov Str, Blagoevgrad (073) 88 55 33 olip@als-alexander.org   Pharos 11-13 Frituf Nansen Blvd, Sofia (02) 980 10 73 info@pharos.bg www.pharos.bg Sofia University Faculty of Slavic Studies 15 Tsar Osvoboditel Blvd, Sofia (02) 930 82 24 valeri@slav.uni-sofia.bg www.slav.uni-sofia.bg Sofia University Department of Language Learning 27 Kosta Lulchev Str, Sofia (02) 871 00 69 valeri@slav.uni-sofia.bg www.slav.uni-sofia.bg Language and Computing Schools Pharos Business Park Sofia, Sofia (02) 980 10 73 office@deo.uni-sofia.bg www.deo.uni-sofia.bg  European Centre for Education and Training Kniaz Boris I Str, Sofia   ecet@ecet.bg www.ecet.bg Bourgas Centre for Foreign Languages and Management Bourgas (056) 844 854 cflm_bs@hotmail.com   Europe Schools - Veliko Turnovo Veliko Turnovo   euscvt@dir.bg   Centre for Language and Business Education Sofia  (02) 980 08 12 rmosofia@hotmail.com   CFLM - Varna Varna (052) 601 425 ofeu@dir.bg   Europe School Plovdiv Plovdiv (032) 641 909 espd@plovdiv.techno-link.com   Centre for Foreign Languages and Management LTD Pleven Pleven (064) 800 792 aceflm@intercom.bg   http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Universities-in-Bulgaria/24/1014 Education and Childcare Name Address Phone E-mail Web Site Sofia University St Kliment Ohridski Tsar Osvoboditel 15 Blvd, Sofia (02) 93 08 pr@admin.uni-sofia.bg www.uni-sofia.bg American University in Bulgaria  1 Macedonia Sq, Blagoevgrad (073) 88 82 35 danche@aubg.bg www.aubg.bg  Medical University Sofia 1 Georgi Sofiiski Blvd, Sofia (02) 851 08 76 education@mu-sofia.bg www.mu-sofia.bg University of National and World Economy Studentski Grad, Sofia (02) 962 39 03                 secretary@unwe.acad.bg www.unwe.acad.bg  New Bulgarian University 21 Montevideo Str, Sofia (02) 81 10 top.info@nbu.bg www.nbu.bg  Technical University of Sofia 8 Kliment Ohridski Str, Sofia (02) 965 21 11 office_tu@tu-sofia.bg www.tu-sofia.bg  University of Architecture and Civil Engineering  1 Hristo Smirnenski Blvd, Sofia (02) 963 52 45 aceadm@uacg.bg www.aucg.bg  National Academy of Arts 1 Shipka Str, Sofia (02) 988 17 02 eduoffice@nha-bg.org www.nha-bg.org  National Academy for Theatre and Film Arts  108A Rakovski Str, Sofia (02) 987 48 63 info_natfiz@yahoo.com http://natfiz.bitex.com  National Sports Academy Studentski Grad, Sofia (02) 62 11 82  nick@nsa.bg www.nsa.bg Higher School of Transport  158 Geo Milev Str, Sofia (02) 970 92 11  office@vtu.bg www.vtu.bg Rakovski Defence and Staff College 82 Evlogi Georgiev Blvd, Sofia (02) 922 65 10 protocol@defcol.mod.bg  http://rakovski-defcol.mod.bg  Plovdiv University Paisii Hilendarski  24 Tsar Asen Str, Plovdiv (032) 63 50 49  nadya@uni-plovdiv.bg www.uni-plovdiv.bg  Agricultural University  12 Mandeleev Str, Plovdiv  (032) 63 32 32  info@au-plovdiv.bg www.au-plovdiv.bg  University of Food Technologies  26 Maritsa Blvd, Plovdiv (032) 44 01 02  vihvp@hiffi-plovdiv.acad.bg  www.vihvp.bg Medical University- Plovdiv 15A Vassil Aprilov Blvd, Plovdiv  (032) 44 38 39   www.meduniversity-plovdiv.bg Academy of Music, Dance and Fine Arts 2 Todor Samoudomov Str, Plovdiv  (032) 60 14 41 amti_secretar@evrocom.net www.artacademyplovdiv.com  South-West University Neofit Rilski Macedonia Sq, Blagoevgrad (073) 88 55 01  iliadg@aix.swu.bg www.swu.bg Burgas Free University 62 San Stefano Str, Bourgas (056) 90 04 26 darina@bfu.bg www.bfu.bg Prof. Asen Zlatarov University 1 Prof Yakimov Str, Bourgas (056) 86 00 41 office@btu.bg www.btu.bg University of Economics 77 Kniaz Boris I Blvd, Varna (052) 66 02 12 int-relations@ue-varna.bg www.ue-varna.bg Medical University Varna 55 Marin Drinov Str, Varna (052) 65 00 18 uch-otdel@mu-varna.bg www.mu-varna.bg Nicola Vaptzarov Naval Academy 73 Vassil Droumev Str, Varna (052) 63 20 15 info@naval-acad.bg www.naval-acad.bg Varna Free University Golden Sands, Varna  (052) 35 95 06  info@vfu.bg  www.vfu.bg  St Cyril and Methodius University  2 T. Turnovski Str, Veliko Turnovo  (062) 61 83 33  mbox@uni-vt.bg  www.uni-vt.bg  Vasil Levski National Military University 76 Bulgaria Blvd, Veliko Turnovo (062) 61 88 22 nvu@nvu.bg www.nvu.bg Gabrovo Technical University 4 H.Dimitar Str, Gabrovo (066) 82 19 31 rector@tugab.bg www.tugab.bg Medical University Pleven 1 St.Kliment Ohrisdki Str, Pleven (064) 88 41 20 edu-office@mu-pleven.bg www.mu-pleven.bg Rousse University Angel Kunchev 8 Studentska Str, Rousse (082) 88 84 67 cicm@ru.acad.bg www.ru.acad.bg Trakia University Stara Zagora Studentski Grad, Stara Zagora (042) 67 30 12 info@uni-sz.bg www.uni-sz.bg National Military University 1 K.Shkorpil Str, Shoumen (054) 57 551   www.pv-ma.bg International Business School 14 Gurko Str, Botevgrad (7133) 68 812  info@ibsedu.com  www.ibsedu.com  International College Albena  3 Bulgaria Str, Dobrich (058) 65 56 11  icollege@mail.bg www.internationaledu.org  http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Regulations-for-the-entry-and-stay-of-EU-citizens-in-Bulgaria/20/1077 Visas and Relocation The law on Residency for EU Citizens determines the conditions under which citizens of European Union (EU) countries, Switzerland and the European Economic Community (EEC) countries and their family member are allowed to enter and stay in Bulgaria. The law has in force since January 1 2007. EU citizens need an ID card or international passport to enter and leave Bulgaria. They are allowed to stay in the country for up to three months without additional documents being issued. If EU citizens decide to stay for a longer period, or want permanent residence in Bulgaria, a police certificate is needed. Long-term residency conditionsA stay for up to five years is considered a long-term residency. The police issues long-term residency permits for EU citizens who fulfill one or more of the following requirements: - works or is self-employed in Bulgaria. - has health insurance and sufficient financial means to make a living without relying on Bulgaria's social aid system. Bulgaria's Cabinet determines which amount is considered 'sufficient financial means.' - is a student in Bulgaria and has sufficient financial means to make a living. An EU citizen who is no longer working or self-employed in Bulgaria still has the right to stay in the country for up to six months: - in case of temporary inability to work, resulting from illness or accident. - if the citizen is registered with the Bureau of Labour Statistics after working for more than one year in Bulgaria. - if the EU citizen had a labour contract for up to one year, but the contract has been suspended, or in case the citizen had a longer-term work contract but lost the job in the first 12 months of working and is registered with the Bureau of Labour Statistics. - if the EU citizen started professional qualification training. In this case the EU citizen is allowed to stay in Bulgaria for the duration of the training. An EU citizen has to present an application for a long-term residency permit to the Directorate Migration of Interior Ministry at 48 Maria Louisa Boulevard in Sofia. The application should be presented up to three months after the EU citizen's arrival in Bulgaria. Documents needed include: - ID card or passport - documents proving that the EU citizen is working, self-employed, has a health insurance and sufficient financial means to make a living or is a student in Bulgaria. - receipt showing that state taxes have been paidA long-term residency certificate is issued the same day of the application. If the application documents are not in order, the applicant will have seven days to present accurate documents.   Permanent stay conditionsEU citizens receive a permanent residency permit after living in Bulgaria for five years or: - have lived continuously in Bulgaria for three years and are working or are self-employed in Bulgaria or another EU member state but return to Bulgaria every week. - are workers or self-employed but suffer long-term incapability of working and have lived in Bulgaria for two years - are workers or self-employed but suffer long-term incapability of working resulting from an labour incident or a professional disease - no longer work because of labour contract suspension but had worked for an year before the suspension; are of age or have reasons to retire and have lived in Bulgaria for more than three years. Absence for up to six months each year, longer absence to serve military service, one leaving for up to 12 consecutive months because of urgent reasons or a business trip are considered part of the EU citizen's stay in Bulgaria. Bulgaria will cancel a permanent residency permit in case the owner is abroad for more than two years. EU citizens have to carry their ID or passports and residency permit or card at all times. http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/High-Schools-in-Bulgaria/24/1235 Education and Childcare A number of high school in bigger Bulgarian towns and cities offer education in a foreign language. The list gives you some of the public and private high schools that provide tutoring in language other than Bulgarian.If you are interested in specific information, it would be best to contact the administration of the specific school. Individual policies vary from one educational institution to another.   HIGH SCHOOLS IN SOFIA Name Address Phone Number   Internet Address  American College  Mladost 2 districtFloyd Black Lane  02/975369502/ 974 31 2902/ 974 41 40 www.acs.bg Law and Management High School Prof. Ivan Apstolov Izgrev District46 Raiko Alexiev Str 02/ 72 05 8202/ 72 38 60 02/ 70 38 42    Cuisine, Catering and Hotel Management High School Bratia Valchevi  Krasna Poliana District40 Pchina Str.  02/ 2010 20    Management and Business Administration High School Helios 2000 Izgrev District46 Raiko Alexiev Str  02/ 73 654002/ 71 66 36  helios2000.hit.bg  Language High School Meridian 22  Mladost 2 District bl. 45  02/ 74 023802/ 74 60 22  http://www.meridian22-edu.com/  Specialised High School Banker  44 Dimitar Hadzhikotsev Str  02/ 65 0321  www.banker-school.com  St. St. Kyril and Methodius High School  30 Souhodolska Str 02/ 9200 17902/920 0463    Tourism High School St. Mina  25 Rozhen Str 02/ 554 71302/955 705302/ 38 72 01    Foreign Language High School William Shakespeare  13 Stara Planina Str. 02/983 512602/983 15200887 041 68    Sports and Tourism Management High School  Losenets District13 Dimitar Dimov Str  02/ 432 68102/ 435 23502/ 435 517    Foreign Language High School Espa  Simeonovo District 3 Kamenitsa Str. 02/975 3367    Foreign Language High School „Doris Tenedi“  Mladost 2 District No18 CDG  02/ 757 166  http://doristenedi.com/  Private Foreign Language High School Dritta  Simeonovo District 13 Kamenitsa Str    www.dritaschool.com/about.html  Bakery and Pastry High School  63 Kyril and Methodius Str 02/9882 14602/9876 313    Private German Language High School Erich Kestner  Liulin 4 District the Building of School No27 02/24 48 5902/26 72 80  http://www.kestnerschool.com/  Foreign Language High School St. Naum  Boiana District 23 Kumata Str 02/685 13502/923 060088 5150 95    Foreign Language High School Antoine de Saint-Exupéry  Mladost I Districtthe Building of 26 ODZ 02/96 31169 02/74 91 86    Economics and Management High School Eco-M-Intelect  19 Dondukov Str. 02/9810 668    Private Business High School EuroStandard  21 Hristo Belchev Str 02/931 003402/986 3577  http://eurostandart.org/  Music Studies High School Orpheus  6 Obzor Str 02/956 905202/957 1560    Economics High School Bulprogress  Krasna Poliana District 13 Souhodolska Str 02/920 168802/920 6970  http://bulprogress.hit.bg/  Fashion Design High School Ariadna  58 Kosta Lulchev Str  02/ 705 50102/ 700 5010882 20 815    Foreign Languages and Humanitarian Studies High School Peio Yavorov“  58 Skobelev Blvd 02/951 5959    High School of Balkans  3 Shose Bankia Str 02/24 76 1202/963 3410   Security High School “Balkan Security” 10-12 Bogatitsa Str 02/963 009902/965 0531 http://www.balkan-security.com/school.html  Foreign Languages High School Alexander Dumas  Izgrev District 1 Vasil Trendafilov Str 02/962 187902/962 183402/962 1867  http://www.dumaschool.com/  English Language – Sofia Foreign Language High School  43 Rodopski Izvor Str. 02/958 6064    Foreign Languages High School Ezikov Sviat  Vazrazhdane District116 Dimitar Petkov Str.      Business Administration and Management High School Apostol Levski  Poduiane Districtthe Building of Sports Club Levski 02/47 58 79    Foreign Languages, Music, Arts and IT High School  Simeonovo District      Foreign Languages High School Artis  18 Dimitar Manov Str 02/5450 46   High Schools in Burgas English Language High School Britannica  the Building of Tourism College 056/2 52 38 056/370 018056/31 951056/31 952    Business High School Vasil Levski Zornitsa Districtbl. 45 056/9630854   High Schools in Rousse Bank and Insurance Policy High School 2 Studentska Str 082/27 0011   High Schools in Shumen EuroBusiness Specialised High School 7A Dedeagach Str     High Schools in Varna Foreign Language High School Znanie i Sila Mladost District 45 building 052/437 489052/457 907   Economics and Business Administration High School Atanas Burov 158 A Tsar Simeon I Str 052/63 08 08 http://www.ultranet.bg/clients/bbu/ Trading High School 7 Zamenhoff Str 052/25 67 40 ti-varna-orbitel.bg Tourism High School 20 Rachinska Str 052/605 7400888 18 52   Fasion Design and Styling High School Bogoia 42 Panaiot Volov Str 052/225 063   High Schools in Veliko Turnovo Management High School 26 Marmaliiska Str 062/4 82 86   http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Kindergarten/24/1237 Education and Childcare Name Location Phone Number                       Kindergarten in Sofia First Private Kindergarten 46 Besarabia Str 02/945429302/945 37280888 08 717 Rai 47 Bistrishko Shose Str 02/961 13 33048 928 890 Chuden Sviat Dragalevtsi district6 No6 Str 02/967 202102/967 3563088 452 663 Priatel na Deteto 19 Krakra Str 02/44 29 18 Sianie Kniazhevo District44 Studen Kladenets Str 02/57 99 67 Dr. Petar Beron 67 Cherni Vrah Blvd 02/68 73 40088 77 40 50 Tuti 23 Gorski Patnik Str. 02/963 06 02 Karl Orf Nadezhda District42 ODZ Building                          Kindergarten in Varna Malkiat Prinz Chaika District 052/30 29 24052/30 05 18                        Kindergarten in Gabrovo Profiled Kindergarten Tedi - tuition of English 1 Uspeh Str 066/21 94 1 Sianie 7 Chardafon Str 066/34 17 9                        Kindergarten in Plovdiv Profiled Kindergarten - tuition of French 8 Tsanko Diustabanov Str 032/62 8246 http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Primary-and-Secondary-Schools/24/1239 Education and Childcare NAME ADDRESS PHONE WEB SITE Schools in Sofia Primary School offering German Language Classes Veda 48 Bregalnica Str 02/317071 http://www.vedabg.com/ Primary School offering Foreign Language Classes Belex Serdika District48 Zhelezopatna Str 02/39 2141088530807 http://www.bellex.bg/ Primary School offering English Language Classes Meridian 22 Mladost 2 DistrictBuilding# 227 02/74 023802/74 6022 http://www.meridian22-edu.com/ Primary School offering German Language Classes Erich Kestner Liulin District IV 02/244 85902/267 280088503969 http://www.kestnerschool.com/ Primary Language School St. St. Cyril and Methodius 30 Suhodolska Str 02/920046302/920017902/231 132   Primary School Rima Darvenitsa District4 Aidemir Str     Primary School offering German Language Classes Goethe Boiana District23 Kumata Str 02/68 51 35   Primary School offering Foreign Language Classes Dr. Petar Beron 67 Cherni Vrah Str 02/68 73 40088 774050   Primary School offering Foreign Language Classes St Ivan Rilski Izgrev District1 G. Bakalov Str 02/963240902/72 38 74   Primary School offering Foreign Language Classes Alexander Dumas Dianabad District1 Vl. Trendafilov Str   http://www.dumaschool.com/  Primary School offering Foreign Language Classes Lesing 63 Giushevo Str      Primary School offering Foreign Language Classes Bulgarsko Shkolo  Lozenets District1 Ekaterina Nancheva Str      Primary School offering Foreign Language Classes St. Kliment Ohridski Izgrev District26 Nikola Gabrovski Str  02/46 51 0602/46 63 49    Primary School offering English Language Classes St Sofia  Kniazhevo District 7 Moreni Str 02/57 01 19    Primary School offering Foreign Language Classes Dr Maria Montesori  Gorna Bania District21 Vechernitsa Str 02/9571560    Secondary School of Music and Choreography Orpheus 97 6 Obzor Str 02/57 51 4602/51 01 22    Private Secondary SchoolVladimir Dimitrov-Mistora  Bistritsa38 Aleko Konstantinov Str 02/9633198   Schools in Bourgas Primary School offering Foreign Language Classes Podbuda 53 Podbuda Str 056/4 43 55   Secondary School  24 Antim I Str. 056/(8)42773   Schools in Varna Primary School of Ancient and Temporary Culture Tsar Simeon I  Sladka Voda Village 0517 62 276052 229 465997 62276    Secondary School Znanie i Sila Mladost District bl. 150  052/456 907052/457 489    Secondary English Language School Malkiat Prints  Chaika District     Schools in Rousse  Secondary High School  3 Tsar Samuil Str 082/22 23 92082/23 39 83   Schools in Shoumen  Primary School Dobri Voinikov  17 Haralan Angelov Str  054/5 24 61    Secondary School Newvvab  Rakovska  054/50359   Schools in Yambol Primary School Emil 38 Graf Ignatiev Str  046/3 13 77    Secondary School  Dimitar Blagoev StrBuilding# 19     http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Applying-to-universities-in-Bulgaria/24/1240 Education and Childcare   Undergraduate: Bulgarian universities are open to all foreign citizens who have a diploma for completed secondary education (final examination, which serves as general qualification for university entrance) that makes them eligible for higher education in their own country.Post-graduate: Foreign citizens can apply for PhD programmes after acquiring a Master’s degree. Students graduating from foreign universities (or other higher education institutions) can apply for doctor programmes after their diploma for completed higher education has been officially recognized and a certificate has been issued in accordance with the State Requirements for the Recognition of Diplomas for Completed Higher Education.Foreign citizens can apply to universities in the Republic of Bulgaria: • according to intergovernmental agreements on educational, scientific and cultural exchange• in accordance with decrees of the Council of Ministers for the number of positions for foreign students• by paying the full tuition fee.Foreign citizens can apply to study at Bulgarian Universities under the terms and conditions regulating the admission of Bulgarian citizens to higher education institutions in the Republic of Bulgaria, if:• they have permanent residence permit• they are treated as refugees • are of Bulgarian nationality, but living abroadEach year the Council of Ministers sets the number of foreign students that can be admitted.Applicants under Decrees of the Council of Ministers and under intergovernmental agreements have to submit their documents in the Education Ministry. http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Application-Documents-Required-for-Bulgarian-Universities/24/1241 Education and Childcare Undergraduate StudentsWhen applying to Bulgarian universities, applicants must submit these documents: A completed application form or a letter of application containing a brief CV, the faculty, the major, the type of study (part-time or full-time), and the degree programme which is being applied for. The application form must explicitly specify the Bulgarian-language knowledge level of the applicant. Foreign citizens applying for the full period of study are required to submit a certified translation of their diploma for completed secondary education including a supplement specifying their attendance record and grades, accompanied by the full academic record. Foreign citizens applying for a higher semester or another portion of the complete studies period submit all the documents described together with academic record. Applicants are ranked on the basis of their admission documents, on condition that the grade relevant to the major applied for is not lower than 62% of the maximum grade in accordance with the grading system in the country were the applicant has completed secondary education (i.e. 4 on the scale of 6) A document issued by a competent body certifying the applicant’s legibility to continue studies in higher educational institutions in the country in which the applicant has completed secondary education. All applicants are required to submit a medical certificate issued no earlier than a month before the application procedure, and validated by the health care authorities in the applicant’s country. The diploma and the medical certificate must be certified, translated into Bulgarian and validated in accordance with the provisions contained in the intergovernmental agreements between Bulgaria and the country in which these documents were issued. If no such agreements exist, the documents must be certified, translated and validated according to the standard procedure. The diplomas for completed secondary education must be certified by the Education Ministry. All applicants are required to submit a photocopy of their identity card(s) or passport(s). Applicants with dual citizenship should provide photocopies of their Bulgarian identity card or passport. Certificate for financial support of the applicant for the full period of his study. Four recent photographs. Applicants submit their documents not later than October 1 of the respective academic year for which they are applying. Admission approval is announced by October 25 of the respective academic year by the institution applied to. University authorities send the documents of the admitted applicants to the Education Ministry, so that long-stay visas can be issued. Visa type “D” is issued in accordance with Ordinance on the terms and conditions for visa issuing.Postgraduate students B.À. M.A., M.S. and Ph.D. StudentsWhen applying to Bulgarian universities for M.A, M.S or Ph.D degrees, applicants must submit these documents: Application form with a short CV; specified field of study; the topics applicants intend to work on in their Ph. D. dissertation; their proficiency level in foreign languages, and the scientific organisation applicants are interested in. A certified copy of their previous academic degree. A medical certificate issued no earlier than a month before the application procedure, and validated by the respective authorities in the applicant’s country; A list of publications, if applicable. All applicants are required to submit a photocopy of their identity card(s) or passport(s). Applicants with dual citizenship should provide photocopies of their Bulgarian identity card or passport. A photocopy of the identity card with the name legibly written in using Latin alphabet, the place and date of birth. A certificate for officially recognized diploma for completed higher education, if the diploma has been issued by a foreign higher educational institution. Application documents can be submitted throughout the whole academic year. Specialisation Certificate Students When applying to Bulgarian universities for a Specialisation Certificate, applicants must submit these documents: Application form with a short CV; the subject area and the scientific organisation they are applying to; proficiency level in foreign languages. Personal Letter of Application to the dean of the university. CV Professional and work experience record for the past five years. Certified copy of the diploma for completed Higher Education. List of publications, if applicable. A medical certificate issued no earlier than a month before the application procedure, and validated by the respective authorities in the applicant’s country. All applicants are required to submit a photocopy of their identity card(s) or passport(s). Applicants with dual citizenship should provide photocopies of their Bulgarian identity card or passport. A photocopy of the identity card with the name legibly written in the Latin alphabet, the place and date of birth. Four recent photographs. The documents described in points 2, and 3 must be sertified, translated into Bulgarian and validated in accordance with the provisions contained in the intergovernmental agreements between Bulgaria and the country in which these documents were issued. Application documents for specialisation programmes can be submitted throughout the whole academic year. Foreign undergraduate and postgraduate students pay an annual tuition fee to a different extent, all depending on the University and the programmes. http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Sofia's-landmarks/62/1247 Destinations When you come to Sofia, start your tour outside the capital. The magnificent mountains that surround Sofia are one of the most preferred places to visit. Vitosha, Liulin and Plana mountains all surround Sofia. They feature both magnificent nature and unique culture sites.Liulin is placed 3km southwest of Sofia. This area is preferred for its tranquility and the suitable places for (family) picnics and outings.To see Kokalianski Monastery you have to take a walk 10km away from central Sofia into Plana Mountain. It was built in the 10th century by Tsar Samuil. Pancherevo lake is located only five km away. It provides opportunities for water sports, sun bathing and swimming.Vitosha is the most popular of the three mountain parks. Boyana church and the Dragalveski monastery are both located in this mountainous area. They were built during the 13th and 14th century and are regarded as predecessors of European Renaissance. The Boyana church is included in the UNESCO World Heritage List.Besides cultural landmarks Vitosha is known for its ski runs found only a short trip from Sofia. If you need a place to stay- Aleko and Zlatnite Mostove are some of the Vitosha resorts that offer accommodation.The Boyanski Waterfall, Vitosha’s stone rivers and Bulgaria’s longest cave Duhlata are some of the natural phenomena found within the Vitosha area.The little town of Bankia is about 20 km west from Sofia. Bankia is famous for its mineral water springs. It features spa resorts as the mineral springs found there are said to cure cardio-vascular diseases. A number of buildings and monuments are emblematic for the capital of Sofia. One is St Alexander Nevski Cathedral. This church is the central cathedral of the Bulgarian Orthodox Church. Built in 1880, the cathedral was designed by the Russian architect Alexander Pomeranski and constructed using very expensive materials. Near the church Alexander Nevsky is located another remarkable landmark, the Monument of the Unknown Soldier with the eternal flame. The monument was built in 1981 to commemorate 1300 years since the founding of the Bulgarian state and to honour Bulgarian soldiers who died in the Russo-Turkish War of Liberation.St. Sofia Church is located on the same square. It was built during sixth century, about 527-565 CE. After this church is given the name of the City SofiaThe National Gallery of Foreign Arts and the National Gallery of Fine Arts are both found near the Alexander Nevski Cathedral.National Theatre Ivan Vazov is also a building worth taking a look at. It was built in 1907 in the typical style of the early 20th century. For more information and for tour guides and holiday bookings, visit http://bulgariainfo.start.bg/ National Palace of Culture (NDK – Natsionalen Dvorets na Kulturata)Built in 1981 by architect Alexander Barov. The National Palace of Culture is a huge building in the heart of Sofia, having 13 halls mainly used for cultural events and concerts. The NDK building spreads over 123 000 sq m and has eight floors and three underground levels. It can accommodate 12 000 guests and artists.Expos usually take place on the first, second and third floors. The rest of the building is used for administrative offices. The Building of Bulgaria’s National AssemblyThe National Assembly of Bulgaria was formed in 1878 and its building was constructed from1884 to 1886 by architect Konstantin Iovanovich, an Austrian-Swiss of Serbian descent. The exterior is formed in neo-renaissance style; the interior has been reconstructed many times, but the main look and idea of the original project have been kept.Since 1991 the Parliament has one more building, which is located near the main National Assembly building. This new building is found at Alexander Batemberg Square.The square also boasts one of Sofia’s impressive monuments, the one of Tsar Osvoboditel. It was set up to honour Russian Emperor Alexander II, who led Russian troops in the war against the Ottoman Empire, resulting in Bulgaria’s liberation from Ottoman rule. http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Cultural-and-Historical-Cities-in-Central-Bulgaria/62/1248 Destinations Veliko TurnovoVeliko Turnovo is a city of great historical and cultural significance to Bulgaria, as it was the capital of the Second Bulgarian Kingdom (1185 – 1396).Veliko Turnovo lies on three hills – Tsarevets, Trapesitsa and Sveta Gora, and Yantra River flows through the city.From the heart of the city you can easily see the Tsarevets hill and its old castles and kings' palaces, Church of Bulgarian Patriarchy and Baldwin's tower. It is the tower, where the Latin Emperor of Constantinople Baldwin IX Count of Flanders was kept until his death, when defeated by the Tsar Kaloyan in 1205. The central part of the city houses a very small park and a monument in honour of the Bulgarian soldiers who died in World War I and II.The second hill, Trapezitsa, is full of ancient archaeological findings. The French archaeologist Georges Soeur found 17 churches in the beginning of the 20th century. Veliko Turnovo University Cyril and Methodius is located on the third hill.The village of Arbanassi http://www.arbanassibg.com/index.php?lang=en – official website of ArbanassiThe village of ArbanassiThe beautiful village of Arbanassi is a place found 4km away from Veliko Turnovo and is famous for its monumental and unique architecture. Every house there has interior and exterior wood-carvings, fretworks and wall art of painting. All these works are nearly four to five centuries old and typical for the Bulgarian folklore.If you visit Arbanassi, you should visit the two monasteries and all of the five churches. These were believed to be the keepers of Bulgarian spirit during the Ottoman rule. http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/South-Bulgaria/62/1250 Destinations Predbalkan (the area in the southern part of Stara Planina Mountain)This area is said to keep the cultural and architectural history of the late Bulgarian Renaissance (1760 – 1878). It features four cities, that you should visit in the following order traveling from west to east.Koprivshtitsa is the first city recommended. Koprivshtitsa, Karlovo, Kalofer The town of Koprivshtitsa is among the Bulgarian towns that managed to preserve customs and culture of Bulgarian Renaissance until nowadays. Koprivshtitsa is located 110km southeast of Sofia and is a part of the UNESCO World Heritage List. There is no other city in Bulgaria, where nearly 388 historical museums and museum-houses can be found. The museums feature profound collections including various objects from the traditional Bulgarian lifestyle shown in that typical Bulgarian environment from the 18th and 19th centuries. The church Uspenie Bogorodichno was built in 1817 in southeastern European Renaissance style. Local people refer to it as the Old Church (Starata Tsurkva). It is one of the must-see monuments in Koprivshtica.Karlovo, found about 36km away from Koprivshtitsa, has the same late Southeast European Renaissance spirit and keeps the same atmosphere as the latter. Nearly 115 museum are located in Karlovo. The town gained its importance as the birth town of Bulgarian revolutionary Vasil Levski,. It is also the place where he organised revolts against the Ottoman rule in Bulgaria.The third town similar to Koprivshtitsa and Karlovo is Kalofer. This town is located 18km away from Karlovo and resembles the spirit of the other two places. KazanlukThe town and the area of Kazanluk are known in Bulgaria as the Rose Valley. Roses, from which the well-known rose oil is made, are grown in the region.Besides the Rose Valley, when you visit Kazanluk you also get the chance to explore the Trace Tomb, known to be one of the greatest for its early Hellenic architectural character. Archaeologists believe that the tomb dates to the period from the fifth to the third century BC. It is listed in the UNESCO World Heritage. http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Central-Part-of-North-Bulgaria/62/1251 Destinations Pleven Pleven is a relatively small town in the middle of northern Bulgaria, but is well-known as the town of the museums. Many excavation sites are located in the Pleven region. The earliest excavations date from the Copper Age, others are from Roman times and the latest are from the early Middle Ages. There are several cultural and historical sites worth seeing among which the park of Skobelev or the Panorama Epic of Pleven 1877, located in the end of the park. In the heart of the city you can find the chapel mausoleum St George Pobedonosets, which was built in 1907 and preserves in its crypt the remains of soldiers, who fought for the liberation of Pleven from Ottoman rule. The Regional Historical Museum is a complex of buildings constructed in 1888. Its collection includes nearly 250 000 exponents showing historical development of the region. About 2km out of the city, near the beautiful Kailaka park, you can visit the excavated Roman city Storgozia (the old name of Pleven.). If you are interested in seeing more Roman excavations, you should travel about 35 km south to the city of Lovech. There you will find the Roman castle of Hisaria. Lovech and Covered bridges in Bulgaria The only covered bridge on the Balkan Peninsula is found in the town of Lovech. It is a century-long tradition for this city to have that kind of bridge. The covered bridge there was built in 1872 by self-taught master constructor Kolio Ficheto. It was about 84m long and had 64 small shops.   In 1981 the covered bridge was reconstructed and made more stable, but the exterior was kept as the original. Now the bridge is 108m long and has only 14 shops. The other masterpiece of Kolio Ficheto is located in Byala. It was built in 1865, with graved and inlaid bas-relief. This second bridge has no clutches or metal, but only massive stones. It is 276m long and 6m wide, features 14 arches each with a clearance of 12m. http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Remarkable-Places-to-Visit-in-Bulgaria/62/1252 Destinations EvksinogradLocated 8 km away from leading coastal city of Varna, Evksinograd was thought to be the mansion of the kniaz Alexander I Batemberg, but later became state-owned. The name Evksinograd comes from the Greek name for the Black Sea Coast or Euxenos Pontos.The residency is open to the public. Evksinograd features a major park surrounding the castle. Evksinograd's residence was constructed entirely by French architects in the style of French Summer House in 1890.The Pirin Mountain AreaThe Pirin Mountain is located in the southern half of Bulgaria and is said to be one of the most beautiful mountains in the country. Besides the indescribable beauty of nature, Pirin houses two of bulgaria’s most well-known monasteries, Rilski and Rozhenski monasteries. National Park Pirin is listed in the UNESCO World Natural Heritage. For the fans of the winter sports the best resorts are to be found near the magnificent park.The smallest town in Bulgaria Melnik is located in the south foot of Pirin Mountain. This town is known for its wine-cellars, the tasty and high-quality wine and the unique atmosphere created by the old white eastern Renaissance houses (18th - 19th century).If you happen to be in Pirin on January 1st you should attend the Koukeri celebrations. Young men dress in ritual clothes and wear scary masks. They dance to scare all evil spirits away.The town of Bansko is the next place that you should not miss. It is yet another museum town. It also features one of Bulgaria’s most famous ski resorts.The Madara HorsemanMadara Horseman is known as the sole monumental graving in rock dated to the 8th century. The monument is located1.5 km away from the small village of Madara.It is carved about 23m above the land surface. The figure symbolises the power and might of Bulgaria. It also features carvings in Greek. It is believed that the Madara Horseman expresses the political relations between Bulgaria and the Byzantine Empire in the period between 8th and 9th century.Since 1979 the Madara Horseman is listed in UNESCO World Heritage. http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Archaeological-excavations-whisper-Bulgaria's-History/62/1254 Destinations Since the founding of the Bulgarian kingdom, Pliska has been the main political, cultural and economic centre. Pliska is considered one of the most impressive landmarks of the European town-building. Its castle was constructed using massive bulwarks about 12m high and deep ditches. The castle is located strategically in an area featuring many hills.The castle was built during several stages. At first it was the residence of ruler Han Krum and covered an area of 500 sq m. It had many secret passages and was considered modern for its time. With the second stage and Han Omurtag came the great decoration of the throne room and the extremely complicated heating installation. The third stage brought early Christian cult buildings with impressive sizes. The most remarkable heritage from this period is the Great Basilica. It was about 2920 sq m and was the biggest Orthodox church on the Balkan peninsula. The basilica was part of a big monastery with very delicate and compound architecture. The Valley of Thracian Kings, Kazanluk areaMany Thracian tombs and excavation areas are located in the area surrounding the town of Shipka.. Sasheva Mogila is a Thracian Tomb dating back to the 3rd century BC. Astonishingly, this tomb was not robbed and all of the burial artifacts are still located within it.Our second stop would be Sevtopolis. This is a part of the capital of the Odrysian kingdom (the Odrysians were a part of the Thracian tribes. The ancient city was named after king Sevt III and the city was built in 3rd century BC. Sevtopolis is built according to the so called Hipodamian layout, which is believed to be the greatest urban achievement of the Hellenes. Based on excavated objects Sevtopolis is considered to have been a great cultural and economic centre.Objects that date back to the 5th century BC are located there. Among them is the gold mask of king Teres, which weighs about 700g of pure 23 carat gold. Other unique objects include the 15g gold ring with carved Olympian-waterman with oars in a boat on its front. These and more ancient objects can be seen in Sofia’s National Museum of History. Thracian Tomb in Kazanluk The Thracian Tomb in Kazanluk is one of the nine Bulgarian landmarks listed in UNESCO World Heritage. It was built in 4th - 3rd century BC. This tomb is known and valued for the incredibly preserved frescoes and mural paintings.A special building provides constant temperature through air conditioning and thus aids the preservation of the frescoes. An exact copy of the original building is built by its side. It is open for visitors. Medieval Castle in LovechAfter Romans conquered the land of where nowadays the town of Lovech is located, they built a castle called Presidium (traveling station) about 3rd century CE. At this time Lovech was called Melta. It was the 4th city in size and importance.More on www.lovech.bg The castle of Shoumen You can spot it from almost every corner of the city, the Castle of Shoumen. Its construction time is still unclear but supposed to be about 700 CE. This castle is one of the most preserved excavation sites of cities. You can clearly see the street and house structure. Many stone writings are kept in the Museum of Shoumen.Later, when Ottomans conquered Bulgaria, a big part of the castle was destroyed, but yet not enough to delete the history of the people that lived in the lands of Bulgaria in ancient ages. Beglik Tash in Primorsko – the mystical ritual sacrifice altar In the beginning of 21st century excavations in Varna and Primorsko uncovered an old Thracian altar from the 14th century BC. Some specifically shaped stones show that this place was used to perform ritual sacrifices to Thracian gods.Some scientists compare Beglik Tash with Stonehenge in Great Britain. The Thracian altar is way less popular, about 15 centuries younger, but the main characteristics are very similar. Monumental stones are present at both sites. About the functions of Beglik Tash can be made clear statements based on archaeological excavations. Roman Thermal SpringsThe biggest public building from Roman times on the territory of Bulgaria, the Roman Thermal Springs, is located in the coastal city of Varna. The architecture shows that the thermal springs were built in the period 2nd or 3rd century CE. The size of the building is said to be indicative of the importance of the city, archaeologists said.One other fact indicating the significance of Varna is the early Christian tomb. The Nekropol, the Christian tomb, was used in the period from 2nd to 6th century AD. Artifacts found at burial sites can be seen in the Archaeological Museum of Varna. http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Full-List-of-the-Universities-in-Bulgaria/24/1256 Education and Childcare Here is a helpful list, when you have come up to the decision to study in Bulgaria. More information about their educational programmes and application requirements you can find on their websites. Town University Website English version of website Blagoevgrad American University in Bulgaria http://www.aubg.bg/ Yes   South-West University „Neofit Rilski“ http://www.swu.bg/ Yes Botevgrad International Business School http://www.ibsedu.com/ No Burgas Burgas Free University http://www.bfu.bg/ Yes   University „Prof. Ph.D. Asen Zlatarov“ http://www.btu.bg/ Yes  Gabrovo  Technical University of Gabrovo  http://www.tugab.bg/  Yes Pleven Medical University of Pleven   http://www.mu-pleven.bg/  Yes  Plovdiv “Paisii Hilendarski” University of Plovdiv   http://www.uni-plovdiv.bg/  Yes    Agricultural University of Plovdiv  http://www.au-plovdiv.bg/  Yes    Medical University of Plovdiv  http://www.meduniversity-plovdiv.bg/  Yes    Academy of Music, Dance and Fine Arts  http://amti.hit.bg/  Yes  Rousse  “Angel Kunchev” University of Rousse  http://www.ru.acad.bg/  Yes  Shumen “Konstantin Preslavsky” University of Shumen   http://www.shu-bg.net/  Yes  Sofia Sofia University ”St. Kliment Ohridski”   http://www.uni-sofia.bg/  Yes    Medical University of Sofia  http://mu-sofia.bg/  Yes    University of National and International Economy  http://www.unwe.acad.bg/  Yes    Technical University of Sofia  http://www.tu-sofia.bg/  Yes    University of Chemical Technology  http://www.uctm.edu/  Yes    University of Architecture, Civil Engineering and Geodesy  http://www.uacg.bg/ Yes    New Bulgarian University  http://www.nbu.bg/  Yes    University of Forestry  http://www.ltu.bg/  Yes    National Academy of Music “Pantcho Vladigerov”  http://www.nma.bg/  Yes    National Academy of Arts  http://www.nha-bg.org/  Yes    National Academy of Theater and Film Arts  http://natfiz.bitex.com/  Yes    National Sports Academy  http://www.nsa.bg/  Yes    Higher School Of Civil Engineering  http://www.vsu.bg/  Yes  Svishtov  Tsenov Academy of Economics  http://www.uni-svishtov.bg/ Yes  Stara Zagora  Trace University-Stara Zagora  http://www.uni-sz.bg/  Yes  Varna  University of Economics  http://www.ue-varna.bg/ Yes    Medical University  http://www.mu-varna.bg/  Yes    Technical Unciversity  http://www.tu-varna.bg/  Yes    Varna Free University  http://www.vfu.bg/  Yes  Veliko Tarnovo  St.Cyril and St.Methodius University of Veliko Tarnovo  http://www.uni-vt.bg/  Yes http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Twenty-Four-Hour-Dental-Care/23/1258 Healthcare If you happen to need a dentist in the middle of the night, here is some information you can use. City Name Location Phone Number Sofia Kardia Dental Service 49 Solun Str. 02 958 66 2502 7097 54088 902 182   Dentist Center 30 Osogova Str. 822-80-50; 0888-934681; 0887-352385   Dentist Center Druzhba 1 districtbl 12-B 979-18-33, 979-18-85, 0888-371903   Dentist Center Lagera district3 Hristo Matov Str. 952-12-29, 0888-414818   MiDent mident@dir.bg 950-07-35, 0886-445 119   Denis Dent Mladost 1 districtbl. 39-B 874-33-44 0888-493041;0888-734728   Dentist Center 43-A Shipchenski Prohod Blv. 0888-939976; 0870-36-21   MedStom 26-A Dondukov Blvd 981-00-00, 989-06-06   Dental Center VI 5 Ivan Vazov Str 987-84-22, -23, -24   Dentist Center 123 G.S.Rakovski Str 980-51-13, 0888-891952   Dental Labor 5 39 Gen. Skoblev 851-31-32, 952-11-50   Eo-Dent 417-A Zahari Stoianov Str 927 08 18088 609 74 05         Plovdiv Dental Center 102 Ruski Blvd 032 644333 http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Twenty-Four-Hour-Medical-Care/23/1259 Healthcare If you need emergency medical care at home: 150. This number is the same for every town in Bulgaria. City Facility Location Phone Number Sofia Pirogov 21 Gen. Totleben Blvd 9154-213 9154-411   Military Medical Academy 3 Georgi Sofiiski Str 9225-543 9226-000   Multi-profiled Hospital for Active Treatment (MPHAT) 37 Patriarh Evtimii Blvd 988-36-31   MPHAT Tsaritsa Ioana 8 Bialo More Str 9432-170 9432-203   Medical Center MedStom 26-A Dondukov Blvd 981-00-00   Medical Center Lora (1) 10 Hristo Botev Blvd 952-06-75 953-05-80                                       (2) 76 Gotse Delchev Blvd 859-31-56                                       (3) Liulin 1 districtbl. 134 925-09-85                                       (4) Levski-B Districtbl. 9-A 946-61-22   Profiled Hospital for Active Treatment (PHAT) – Orthognathic Surgery 1 Sv. Georgi Sofiiski Str. 952-60-01, 954-48-22   PHAT Psychiatric Clinic 59 Exarh Iosiv Str 981-00-06 Plovdiv    MPHAT “ Sv.Georgi” - First Facility 15-A V. Aprilov Str     Second Facility 66 Peshtersko shosse Str   Varna Hospital “Sv. Marina” 1 Hr. Smirnenski Blvd 052 302 876 Bourgas Medical Center Sv.Sofia 13 Vazrazhdane Str. 056 / 845 083056 / 845 0810888 / 74 12 95   MPHAT Burgas 73 Stefan Stambolov Str. 056 810581 http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Twenty-Four-Hour-Pharmacies/23/1260 Healthcare You can urgently buy meds any time in the following places: City Name Location Phone Number Sofia Altea 58 Deyan Belishki Str 958-31-02   Ana 95 Vitosha Blvd 953-41-57   Aronia 2001 6 Pencho Slaveikov Blvd 953-13-08   Veli Mladost 4 Districtbl. 416 (next to Amigos Restaurant) 975-48-67   Medea-74 Buckstone District56 Gen. Suvorov Str 955-54-32   Panatsea Ovcha Kupel 1 Districtbl. 507-D 957-47-01   Studentska Studentski Grad bl. 60-B 868-01-15   Farma 242 Kostonski Vodopad Str 958-25-68         Plovdiv Apteka 18 61 Ivan Vazov Str 032 / 634 624   Aptechen Kompleks 130 Bulgaria Blvd 032 / 953 373   Zapad 129 Peshtersko Shose Str. 032 / 640 048   Zapad Alpha Dilianka Str. 032 / 944 699   Millenium 40 Bogomil Str 032 / 634 281 ; 634 206 ; 088 / 860 40 58   Trimoncium 149 6-ti Septemvri Str 032 / 628 568 http://www.expatinbulgaria.com/articles/Veliko-Turnovo-guide/76/1392 Veliko Turnovo As the renowned East European philosopher Borat may have put it, “Yagshemash, welcome to my village, ah hope you like, I like!” Of course, Veliko Turnovo is no village. The former capital of Bulgaria is now a thriving, vibrant and much loved city, especially amongst foreigners. Where is itSo, what’s the attraction? Three little words: location, location, location. Perched on a granite hillside, three hours drive from Sofia in the west, and three hours to Varna in the east, tier upon tier of houses sit improbably on top of one another, overlooking the Yantra River which meanders gracefully at the base of the hills. The effect is amazingly picturesque, homes of various hues stacked like childrens’ play bricks. Large enough to be cosmopolitan, and small enough to avoid being overwhelming, Veliko Turnovo manages to combine a certain degree of sophistication without the attendant evils of big city life. Treasures of the old townThe heart of the city is the old town, which starts not too far east of the newer municipality buildings. Here in the old town you will find many shops catering to the strange compulsion of tourists to buy overpriced rubbish! ‘Traditional Bulgarian’ dolls, placemats showing scenes from rural life, ‘humorous’ pottery figurines. But before I begin to sound too cynical and jaded I should also point out that the old town also plays host to many traditional crafts, icon painters, wood carvers, knife makers. It’s a joy to wander the cobbled streets to watch these artisans carry on the old traditions. Some of their works are quite lovely. The old town also plays host to a couple of antique shops, which never fail to fascinate me. One in particular holds an overwhelming attraction for me. It is the most disorganised shop I have ever been in. Antiques fill the small shop, lying in haphazard piles on the floor or hanging from wires from the ceiling. Every visit there is an adventure, you never know just what treasure you’ll discover buried under dust and junk. World War II memorabilia, jostles for space with cat gut tennis rackets and positively ancient musical instruments. From the west end of St Stambolov Str head east towards Tsaravets, keep on the left and you will be heading into the old town, the antique shop is the first you come to past the children’s play equipment. What’s thereQuaint as Veliko Turnovo and its’ old town are, VT as it’s known to the locals, is not a city frozen in the past, it’s constantly evolving. Currently the shopping patterns of the town are being changed. New commercial developments to the west of the town centre are pulling consumers away from the more traditional shopping areas. The central mall on the main VT-Sofia road sparked off the change. The mall is a modern, airy shopper’s paradise, following the established rules for malls worldwide. Several eateries, ranging from snack-type food to a not too bad pizza-style restaurant, can be found. A large and reasonably varied stocked supermarket is perhaps the main draw to the mall. In addition you can play some ten pin bowling at the American style bowling alley, or get tanned at the health centre before catching the latest movie at the multiplex cinema. I personally wonder how long the cinema can survive. I went to two movies there, Casino Royale and Borat, to find myself the only customer! So please, do me a favour if you are ever in VT with a few hours to spare, go watch a movie at the central mall. It’s cheap and clean and the popcorn is reasonably tasty! Other international stores are discovering VT, there is a large Praktiker, not easily missed if you head for the mall from city centre it’s well signposted on your left. There is also a theatre/cinema at the municipality buildings just to the east of the centre, a bustling vibrant area, with al fresco cafés attracting a young crowd. Eating out and round and aboutTalking about food, VT boasts a varied selection of eateries, Italian, Chinese and of course traditional Bulgarian dishes. My own preference lies with the Lucky Man restaurant on St Stambolov Str . Externally, it could easily be mistaken for just another pizzeria or spaghetti house, but in fact it serves an incredibly extensive range of food, from Italian pasta to Yugoslavian minced meat. Service is friendly, prices are very reasonable, it overlooks the city art gallery and its downstairs section has recently been completely revamped to give a neo-regency feel to the place, as opposed to the ground level section with its huge stone pizza oven and rustic décor. Other than the Lucky Man, there are many adequate pizza houses around town, Tempo, Eterna, Ego. Tempo and Ego are just south of the east end of St Stambolov Str virtually en route to the Hotel Etar bus terminal.  Eterna takes a bit more finding, but it’s worth it, located in a small commercial street on the west of the town before the state hospital. The huge Grand Hotel on St Stambolov Str, serves a wide selection of western dishes, as does the newly opened and impressively styled Hotel Bolyarski in the town centre. For those of you looking for more traditional Bulgarian food, I can suggest the Gurko Hotel and Mehana, a wonderful little restaurant with magnificent views over the art gallery, located, naturally, in the oldest street in VT, Gurko. Food is fresh traditional and cheap, staff are friendly and very helpful. Taxis are readily available and cheap and for ‘Yoof’ culture, VT has several night clubs playing hip hop, trance and house music. In my days we called them discotheques. Locals seem to like Scream bar located below the Ego Pizzeria. Old rivalries It has to be said that there is a certain rivalry between VT and Sofia, Turnovians are rightly irritated by the Sofians assumption that all living outside of the capital can be labelled ‘village people,’ a condescending view that is not well received in this city of culture. VT cannot compete with Sofia for retail therapy, but it doesn’t have to. It’s got other things going for it. One of these is Tsarevets, the old hill fortress of former kings. Panoramically overlooking the city the walled fortress is a big draw for foreigners. Particularly as the city fathers have seen fit to produce one of the most spectacular son et lumiere spectacles in Europe. I’ve seen these sound and light shows played out on castles in England, on Roman remains in Italy and on Renaissance Chateaux in France, and nothing can compare with humble VT’s display. It’s very emotional, the lasers being accompanied by a sound track that Pink Floyd would be happy with, the music reflecting the turbulent and at times tragic history of Bulgaria. The son et lumiere takes place at weekends on a fairly regular basis in the summer months. At other times best check with the local tourism information office. Another big draw to the town for some is the St Cyril and Methodious University, with its much praised language department. Perched imposingly high on a hillside overlooking the town, the university doubtless has a large part to play in the feel of the town. The student population brings new blood to this ancient community. Indeed, VT seems determined to reinvent itself as the cultural capital of Bulgaria. It plays host to annual folk festivals, it holds open-air concerts in the town centre. Current mayor Rumen Rashev recently involved himself in a grand literary project. The pleasing thing is that VT manages to do all this without being a parody of Bulgarian culture. There is an honesty in all of its’ endeavours, which avoids either kitsch, or overt commercialism, which is very pleasant in this day and age. What’s in it for the BritsFurthermore facilities in and around VT, enable many expats to easily make the transition to life abroad. You can find private medical centres, offering excellent care at a fraction of the cost of similar treatment back in the UK. My own experience has been with a private surgery located near to the state hospital. I’d gladly recommend it, however the partners seem somewhat publicity shy and in deference to their wishes I can’t give out information on them in such a public forum. However, if you are in need of medical help feel free to contact me direct. There is an American college catering for the needs of English speaking pupils, and the towns’ renowned university is about to launch an international  course in art for foreigners. For those seeking a healthier lifestyle, VT and environs offer ample opportunities for hill walking, hiking, camping, fishing and cycling. I’m also going to take a wild guess here and suggest that sales of 2nd hand Lada Nivas have risen since Bits discovered the area, it seems that many are drawn to the ‘Russian Land Rover’ as the Niva is often referred to. For all or some of the above reasons the town draws a lot of attention from Brits looking to move to Bulgaria. I’ve met a number of fellow countrymen, who have purchased property in the area, and they all have said almost the same thing, “Oh I bought a place over here for investment, but it’s so nice I’ve decided to move here.” So what kind of people does VT attract? It would appear that the area appeals to people from England who are tired of the claustrophobia of British life. They are seeking an uncomplicated, healthy existence. It attracts people looking for early retirement, who do not want to end their days simply sitting in front of a TV. It does not attract those looking for little Britain. True, there is a VT British club, but membership is entirely voluntary. I’ve spoken to Brits living in the area who have moved specifically to VT to escape from everything British. Which is perhaps ironic, because most Brits living here indulge in a very British pastime…commuting. Where to buy Expats tend not to live in VT itself, but rather to buy older properties in surrounding villages, largely perhaps on the grounds of cost, but I like to think that there is also an element of trying to regain something which has disappeared from British lifestyles, a sense of community. I’m told by people older and presumably wiser than me that in the recent past, Brits did not just live in houses, they lived in communities. That community may have been a village or small town, equally it could have been a street in a major metropolitan area, the point being that you knew your neighbours, they talked to you, they helped you, and they looked out for you even before neighbourhood watch schemes became fashionable. Nowadays in the UK every man is an island. We tend to live in splendid isolation. Don’t ask me why, I don’t have any easy answer, perhaps rising crime makes us anti-social, perhaps it’s easy to blame television, perhaps it’s the loss of local shops as we all jump in our cars to buy everything at the nearest huge supermarket. Whatever the reason, we all tend to live alone, and we feel the loss. Living in a village house in Bulgaria, takes us back into