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18° Burgas, Bulgaria

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Soaring with the eagles at Sokolski monastery

Ideal weather can make a beautiful site spectacular – and such was our experience when visiting Sokolski Monastery, about 12km south-east of Gabrovo.

In fact, at present, it is not a monastery, but an active nunnery – though with only two nuns resident, it is hard to call it thriving. But it’s still referred to as a monastery. Sokolski Monastery Assumption of the Blessed Virgin prides itself on its flourishing gardens and peaceful mountainous setting. To assist the two ladies resident, there are about 40 volunteers for random tasks.

A plaque at the entrance describes it and its history as follows:

“In 1832, architect Yosif Sokolski and archmandrate Agapii (monks at the Troyanski Monastery) built a wooden chapel with a sanctuary apse in the cliffs of Sokol. The modern-day structure was built in 1834 over three months (from May to August) and was consecrated on August 15 1834 with a ceremony led by the Greek bishop from Veliko Turnovo Ilarion Kritski. The frescoes are the work of the priest Pavel and his son Nikolai, both from Shipka, in the Kazanluk region. The iconostasis was replaced with a new one made by an unknown artisan in 1864. In 1836 architect Sokolski founded a school in the monastery, in which learnt Neofil Bozveli. In 1850 near the central church, Father Superior Yosif build a small church – an ossuary, for which Felix Kanitsa enrapturedly described in his diary the work of a single Italian artisan. On August 15 1851, Petar H Palaouzov from Gabrovo (resident of Odessa) gifted the monastery with a Russian bell. In 1856, at the monastery, Captain Dyado Nikola stayed with his detachment. Vassil Levski was one of the important guests of the monks’. The construction genius Kolyu Ficheto built for free the beautiful octagonal fountain in memory of the eight revolutionaries who had been apprehended and hanged. Through the memorable year of 1876, the monastery was a gathering point of the Gabrovo revolutionaries who, on May 1, took an oath in the church and set off towards the Balkan Range, led by the voivoda (leader of a unit of Bulgarian insurgents) Tsanko H Dyustabanov, whose sabre is kept at the monastery. During the Russo-Turkish war for liberation, a military hospital was built.

“The tall pine, its majestic silhouette towering over the monastery’s courtyard, was planted in 1932 by Father Superior Yosif Solkoski, who stayed in that position until 1860, after which he went to the Kiev-Pechersk Lavra until he finished his earthly days on September 30 1879.

“Once having crossed the threshold of the monastery’s heavy door, the visitor is seized by the magnificence of the flowered gardens, by the whiteness of the verandahs, the murmuring of the water running into the drinking-trough. And they cannot overlook, and they can not get enough of the proud beauty the enchanted eyes of the visitor-pilgrim.

“‘God, how beautiful it is!’”

Worth remembering is that Zahari Zograf, the noted artist from Samokov active during the time of the Bulgarian National Revival, painted the icons in the chapel – Jesus Christ, and Mary with the Baby Jesus. (“Zograf” means “iconist”.) And, “sokol”, the word from which the monastery took its name, means “falcon”.

Note that sometimes, the place is referred to as Gabrovski Monastery (Ãàáðîâñêè ìàíàñòèð) instead of Sokolski Monastery (Ñîêîëñêè ìàíàñòèð).

According to information on the Bulgarian Culture Ministry’s website, this is the only monastery in the country with a fountain (and one built by Bulgaria’s master architect from the mid-1800s) facing the main gate instead of a church.

I spoke with Sister Melania about possibilities of staying at the nunnery and what goes on there for Easter. A sweet-voiced woman, she said that the weeks before the holiday are filled with cleaning of the gardens for spring and preparing and decorating them for Easter guests. Along with this are daily services at the chapel.

On Easter itself, or, more so, the midnight of the Saturday going into Easter Sunday, there is held the traditional Easter service with candles and a priest and the proceeding around the church three times. Though I did not think to ask how, exactly, the procession takes place, as the chapel itself is down in a lower area, and somewhat on a cliff. It does offer a nice view of the Yantra River, however.


How to get there:
There is a bus transport from Gabrovo, or you can walk to the nunnery from Etara open-air museum along a marked path – it would take about an hour to an hour and a half.

If driving, go to Gabrovo. From there, the way to the nunnery is signposted.

For general contact, call 066/ 801 763 or 088/ 772 99 06.

Staying at Sokolski Monastery:

There are 15 guest rooms each with private bathrooms, available for 15 leva a person a night. To make reservations, contact Nikolai at 088/ 630 80 17.


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Friday, May 16 2008

Expat of the Week

anglachanka

I like motorcycles, driving, rambling in the countryside, going to bazaars, relaxing in the sunshine ... read more

What`s on in Bulgaria

Theatre

  • Short Play for a Child’s Room
    What: The play resulted from a fortunate – and unlikely – encounter between director Galin Stoev and playwright Yana Borissova’s debut text.
    When: May 24 and 29
    Where: Theatre 199
  • Valentine’s Day
    What: One of the most popular contemporary Russian playwrights, Ivan Vyrypaev has chosen for his play’s motto the words of an Arabian philosopher: “There are only two things – love and love.”
    When: May 22
    Where: Little City Theatre off the Channel
  • Three Sisters
    What: Anton Chekhov’s Three Sisters is a play about the things that never happen and the sophisticated sadness and despair of the characters.
    When: May 21 and 30
    Where: Nikolai Binev Youth Theatre
  • Lazarus and Jesus
    What: Based on Emilian Stanev’s apocrypha, Lazarus and Jesus aims to excite interest in the “damned questions” raised by the author and to argue against the assertion that Bulgarian literature is limited mostly to the regional and the untranslatably Bulgarian.
    When: May 18
    Where: Sfumato Theatre-Workshop
  • 16th International Istanbul Theatre Festival
    What: two weeks of theatre and dance performances from around the globe
    When: May 15 to June 4
    Where: Istanbul
  • The Taming of the Shrew (premiere)
    What: Director Marius Kurkinski returns to the stage of the Satirical Theatre with this Shakespearean comedy, which was one of the master’s earlier plays.
    When: May 10, 19 and 26
    Where: Aleko Konstantinov Satirical Theatre, Sofia

Cultural Institutes

  • Salon of the Arts
    What: The annual Salon of the Arts features tens of exhibitions, concerts and performances. For a complete programme, stop by the Ticket centre at the National Palace of Culture (NDK)
    When: May 11 to June 30
    Where: National Palace of Culture, Sofia

Art

  • Sofia, Paris, Strasbourg
    What: A joint project by the National Academy of Arts in Sofia, the Ecole Superieure d’arts graphiques – Penninghen and the Ecole superieure des arts decoratifs, Strasbourg, focusing on the Cyrillic alphabet with a newspaper theme.
    When: Opens May 8
    Where: Akademia, 1 Shipka Str, Sofia
  • ART POSITIVE 2008: FRAGMENT
    What: exhibition with the participation of 14 Plovdiv artists
    When: Until May 25
    Where: Centre for Contemporary Art - Plovdiv arttoday.org

Live Music

  • KYLIE MINOGUE
    What: Indisputably, one of the major concerts in Bulgaria in 2008 will be that of pop icon Kylie Minogue. Ticket prices vary from 40 to 50 leva.
    When: May 18
    Where: Lokomotiv Stadium
  • JAZZ PLUS FESTIVAL 2008
    What: Jan Garbarek Group featuring Manu Katche, Alboran Trio, Roberto Fonseca, Luisito Quintero. Tickets at 20 and 25 leva, available from Dyukyan Meloman, Bulgaria Hall, NDK box office, eventim.bg and ticketstream.bg.
    When: May 15, 17, 18 and 29
    Where: NDK, Bulgaria Hall and 4km Party Center
  • After Business Club
    What: weekly mixers
    When: Wednesdays, 8pm
    Where: Chillout Bar & Dinner, 5 Triaditsa Str
  • RONI SIZE DJ SET
    What: The Sofia gig of the world-famous drum ’n’ bass DJ Roni Size will be the first in a series of events presenting legendary performers from the global drum ’n’ bass scene.
    When: May 17
    Where: Hristo Botev Hall in Studentski Grad
  • WORLD BEAT NIGHTS – DANCING AROUND THE GLOBE
    What: Three more World Beat Nights – Dancing Around The Globe parties will be held in May.
    When: May 16, 23 and 30. May 16: African Night, May 23: The Latino Friday and May 30: Arabian Night.
    Where: Club Pulse